Going for a re-tune.... (Round #2) Updated 10/28/13

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Debating on a few items -

Do I use my current battery - and i'll have to get a box, and cut-off switch for the track
OR
Do I get an Optima Dry Cell battery, build my own battery hold down (not a box) out of welded steel angle and cut-off switch for the track


Decisions, decisions.....

 

[akoutmos]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Something like this? http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31127

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Something like this? http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31127

Basically, yes, probably not as high of walls, and build a tie down, but it would go into the trunk instead.

The cut-off switch would be solely installed/removed for track days, and probably utilize the taillight key hole somehow, or an extra set of tails with a hole in it....

I'm more leaning towards the optima just solely due to it being a higher quality battery, and I don't have to use a sealed box.

 

[akoutmos]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Sounds good. What kind of racing you gonna do? Drag, autoX, road course?

Also if you are looking for a light weight battery braille makes some good stuff.

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Mainly drag and road racing eventually.

Braille, huh? Never heard of them, I'll have to check it out. How would it work with it being all the way in the trunk? Enough CCA's and such as a regular/standard battery?

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Welp,

Finally got my car to a location I can work on it. Oil lines will begin tonight along with running the wire for the battery relocation. (Will connect battery when I buy a better battery).

In early November should be buying an intercooler and installing that (maybe as early as late October)....

Exciting!

 

[AFAccord]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Oil pan and bung have been dropped off for welding this morning!

What did you need a new bung for?

Debating on a few items -

Do I use my current battery - and i'll have to get a box, and cut-off switch for the track
OR
Do I get an Optima Dry Cell battery, build my own battery hold down (not a box) out of welded steel angle and cut-off switch for the track


Decisions, decisions.....

I relocated my battery to the trunk. I have an Optima Red Top (might get a yellow top if this one dies) mounted in a plastic battery box that you can find at O'reillys or Advance, with a quick disconnect key mounted to the box. I bolted the box to the floor and there's a tie-down strap built into the box for the battery. The lid to the box is designed to allow the battery wires to loop up over the base and out of the box downwards to the floor. Used 0 gauge stranded cable with a 200amp ANL fuse and haven't had any problems with starting or charging. Just be sure to plan your path carefully when running these large cables through the firewall and definitely use grommets. My trunk is stripped right now, but I'll see if I can dig up some old photos.

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

What did you need a new bung for?




I relocated my battery to the trunk. I have an Optima Red Top (might get a yellow top if this one dies) mounted in a plastic battery box that you can find at O'reillys or Advance, with a quick disconnect key mounted to the box. I bolted the box to the floor and there's a tie-down strap built into the box for the battery. The lid to the box is designed to allow the battery wires to loop up over the base and out of the box downwards to the floor. Used 0 gauge stranded cable with a 200amp ANL fuse and haven't had any problems with starting or charging. Just be sure to plan your path carefully when running these large cables through the firewall and definitely use grommets. My trunk is stripped right now, but I'll see if I can dig up some old photos.

The weld for the old bung/pan connection was leaking like crazy, along with all of the fittings, and just felt better to get a new pan and oil return fittings/bung/lines to prevent future leaks.

As far as the battery - with the Optima's they are dry cell, so for NHRA I'm almost positive that you wouldn't need a box due to it being dry cell. Only when it is liquid do you need a box.

I am using 0 guage wire, distribution box/fuse combination. That would be great if you could locate photos! seriously! And where would you find gromments?

 

[AFAccord]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

The weld for the old bung/pan connection was leaking like crazy, along with all of the fittings, and just felt better to get a new pan and oil return fittings/bung/lines to prevent future leaks.

As far as the battery - with the Optima's they are dry cell, so for NHRA I'm almost positive that you wouldn't need a box due to it being dry cell. Only when it is liquid do you need a box.

I am using 0 guage wire, distribution box/fuse combination. That would be great if you could locate photos! seriously! And where would you find gromments?

Gotcha. I've only found one photo so far. It's an old photo, but it's the best I have for now.

I wanted it in a box so I didn't have to worry about throwing stuff on top of it. Also, when I open the trunk lid when the car is wet, it drips right where the battery is, so it's good protection from that as well. The box isn't sealed, so I don't think it would work for a non-sealed battery anyway. Grommets can be found in the hardware section of auto parts stores. If they don't have one big enough, check out a car stereo shop.

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Gotcha. I've only found one photo so far. It's an old photo, but it's the best I have for now.

I wanted it in a box so I didn't have to worry about throwing stuff on top of it. Also, when I open the trunk lid when the car is wet, it drips right where the battery is, so it's good protection from that as well. The box isn't sealed, so I don't think it would work for a non-sealed battery anyway. Grommets can be found in the hardware section of auto parts stores. If they don't have one big enough, check out a car stereo shop.

Thanks for the help! If I was going to get a box, which I may either way, that was the one I was looking at too.

Here's the oil pan and bung after welding (They even ground the welds and painted it to match for me for $20, not a bad deal if you ask me):

Got the new pan on, and a majority of the oil return lines on, but cut the braided -10 line about 1/2" too long, so over the weekend i'll cut it down and connect it and re-install downpipe and transmission cover. I hondabonded the living piss out of the oil pan and potential leak spots in the fittings so overall very happy i'm finally doing this.

Next up is the battery relocation and intake construction.

Then finally the new intercooler!