★ Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! ★ *UPDATED 4/15* ★

[hotaccord243]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

Which is exactly why i won't be doing any headwork untill i can afford to go change out all the valvetrain and cam's. Plus our intake manifolds are pretty good stock. They only thing i would honestly do besides cleaning up some of the casting marks is shave down part of the runners where it comes into the plenum. If you take off the top piece of the intake mani you'll see what i'm talking about the runners continue way up into that plenum so you could free up a little flow there but it wouldn't be worth it to pay someone to do it. if you really want it done i would just do it yourself since you won't benefit too much as far as power gains go.

You can do headwork after you change out valvetrain and cams you know, right?
You can always to do the headwork/P&P/etc. at a later time after the valvetrain and cams or vise-versa. You don't have to do it all at once.

I would hope that you aren't doing any of that yourself. Especially if you don't know how to operate/have a flowbench to double check the flow of the head and everything. There are specialty tools too. I don't know how extensive everything is at your auto schoold, but I would never mess with the head or intake manifold by yourself, you would be messing with years of design. The Intake Manifold is fine for most of the power that is reached by accord owners.

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

Hey Nikita,

What's going on with your build? I haven't heard any updates lately?

 

[x5carl3tMurd3rx]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

You can do headwork after you change out valvetrain and cams you know, right?
You can always to do the headwork/P&P/etc. at a later time after the valvetrain and cams or vise-versa. You don't have to do it all at once.

I would hope that you aren't doing any of that yourself. Especially if you don't know how to operate/have a flowbench to double check the flow of the head and everything. There are specialty tools too. I don't know how extensive everything is at your auto schoold, but I would never mess with the head or intake manifold by yourself, you would be messing with years of design. The Intake Manifold is fine for most of the power that is reached by accord owners.

I know how to port a head lol we learned it like the second week of high performance powertrains. We've got two flow benches and a huge porting station. I just wasn't going to do it myself cause just cause I know how to do it doesn't mean I can do it well. I've only ported one head, and it wasn't exactly the greatest porting job ever hahaha

like you said though honda knows what they were doing when it came to well flowing heads and intake manifolds thats why I won't be doing anything with mine.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

like you said though honda knows what they were doing when it came to well flowing heads and intake manifolds.

Apparently they got drunk or something when they were designing the F23 IM/Head because it's not as free-flowing as the other relative Honda made variants.. Which sucks greatly I must add.

Devin, the build is still going well, but I am waiting on funds. As soon as funds come in beginning of January, I will begin the machine-shop work. It may happen earlier, depending how much financial flexibility I have. I just sold my wheels, so I may buy a few other parts with that money in the meantime.

Even though I'll be running current turbo and stock head, I am so excited to put out some decent numbers soon. In Maine, I have a whole other stock head sitting on a bench.. waiting to be fully built! That is a future endeavor though, probably by this time next year haha.

Hope everyone had a great turkey day!

 

[Erik123456789]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

DW youll be fine with the stock head dude, how are the rods coming along? did you ever decide on which to get? u still have my pistons?

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

I've decided to go ahead and put down the $770 for Crower rods.. the quality comes with the name. I trust them, and I'd rather do that than play with other combinations. Bisi can suck it as far as rods because his shop quoted me $800 for JUST rods. When i inquired about the supposed rod/piston combo which was offered for a similar price, they didn't know anything about it. Obviously the price would have been disproportional.. I was hoping their rods would be cheaper.

The machine shop has my/your pistons right now.. Along with the block and crank. They better have not misplaced them.

Any suggestions as to where I should buy my ARP main bolts? I already have the ARP head bolts, torqued and used for few months before tuner blew my engine. I believe they can be reused.

I also need to get ACL crank and rod bearings.

Are these the exact ones? Can anyone confirm these parts please?

Main: http://www.raceeng.com/p-12222-hp-main-brgd16a6z6zch22a4b20a5b21f23a-set.aspx
Rod: http://www.raceeng.com/p-9342-hp-rod-brgk20a3f23025-set.aspx

Then order the Kaizenspeed kit, and I believe that's pretty much it.

I'd like to also get ARP rod bolts.. Opinions on ARP rod bolts versus ones that come with Crower rods?

I'd like to upgrade as much of the bottom end as I can during this phase, so that when i install and tune it, it will only have room for improvement without having to dig into upgrading bottom end components again, they would already be as good as they can be.

Essentially, even if some small parts like bolts aren't worth it or something, think about their worth in the long run of engine integrity with high power gains, not just strictly what I am shooting for right NOW.

Ideas?

 

[x5carl3tMurd3rx]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

I've decided to go ahead and put down the $770 for Crower rods.. the quality comes with the name. I trust them, and I'd rather do that than play with other combinations. Bisi can suck it as far as rods because his shop quoted me $800 for JUST rods. When i inquired about the supposed rod/piston combo which was offered for a similar price, they didn't know anything about it. Obviously the price would have been disproportional.. I was hoping their rods would be cheaper.

The machine shop has my/your pistons right now.. Along with the block and crank. They better have not misplaced them.

Any suggestions as to where I should buy my ARP main bolts? I already have the ARP head bolts, torqued and used for few months before tuner blew my engine. I believe they can be reused.

I also need to get ACL crank and rod bearings.

Are these the exact ones? Can anyone confirm these parts please?

Main: http://www.raceeng.com/p-12222-hp-main-brgd16a6z6zch22a4b20a5b21f23a-set.aspx
Rod: http://www.raceeng.com/p-9342-hp-rod-brgk20a3f23025-set.aspx

Then order the Kaizenspeed kit, and I believe that's pretty much it.

I'd like to also get ARP rod bolts.. Opinions on ARP rod bolts versus ones that come with Crower rods?

I'd like to upgrade as much of the bottom end as I can during this phase, so that when i install and tune it, it will only have room for improvement without having to dig into upgrading bottom end components again, they would already be as good as they can be.

Essentially, even if some small parts like bolts aren't worth it or something, think about their worth in the long run of engine integrity with high power gains, not just strictly what I am shooting for right NOW.

Ideas?

sounds like you got it all planned out. I looked into the rod bolts but for the stock rods I'd have to send them all the dimensions and get it made that way. I'm sure the bolts that come with your crower rods will be fine though.

Let me know if you find ARP main bolts cause I'd be interested in that.

good luck with everything man can't wait to see what kinda numbers you make.

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

I've decided to go ahead and put down the $770 for Crower rods.. the quality comes with the name. I trust them, and I'd rather do that than play with other combinations. Bisi can suck it as far as rods because his shop quoted me $800 for JUST rods. When i inquired about the supposed rod/piston combo which was offered for a similar price, they didn't know anything about it. Obviously the price would have been disproportional.. I was hoping their rods would be cheaper.

The machine shop has my/your pistons right now.. Along with the block and crank. They better have not misplaced them.

Any suggestions as to where I should buy my ARP main bolts? I already have the ARP head bolts, torqued and used for few months before tuner blew my engine. I believe they can be reused.

I also need to get ACL crank and rod bearings.

Are these the exact ones? Can anyone confirm these parts please?

Main: http://www.raceeng.com/p-12222-hp-main-brgd16a6z6zch22a4b20a5b21f23a-set.aspx
Rod: http://www.raceeng.com/p-9342-hp-rod-brgk20a3f23025-set.aspx

Then order the Kaizenspeed kit, and I believe that's pretty much it.

I'd like to also get ARP rod bolts.. Opinions on ARP rod bolts versus ones that come with Crower rods?

I'd like to upgrade as much of the bottom end as I can during this phase, so that when i install and tune it, it will only have room for improvement without having to dig into upgrading bottom end components again, they would already be as good as they can be.

Essentially, even if some small parts like bolts aren't worth it or something, think about their worth in the long run of engine integrity with high power gains, not just strictly what I am shooting for right NOW.

Ideas?

Good choice on the Crower Rods!

The ARP bolts should be able to be re-used, unless they are stretched beyond specs (Which you'll have to measure to verify this).

As far as Main Bolts, I would give ARP a call and ask. If they don't have anything, measure your thread size, type, length etc. to see if they can make them. But you should honestly be okay without them though....

The ACL crank and rod bearings...
When replacing main bearings with stock equipment... There is a color/number system that is stamped on the side of each journal on the crank and the distributor side of the underside of the block. This system is used in combination to figure out the size (actually color coded OEM) of the main bearings.

When doing rod bearings with stock equipment... It is the same process as far as using the crankshaft code and the rod has a code stamped on the side of it to find the correct size (Color) of the correct rod bearing...

I believe what they do with aftermarket rods is not necessarily stamp the side of it, but provide clearances with them to decipher what size bearings to get... for the rods.

As far as the crank I would think you should be able to work backwards as far as if any difference between the size of the rod openings (old vs. new) and the crank main bearing sizes.....

But if they come with stock clearances on the rods vs. the old, and the crank just got polished, it would make sense to be able to use the same color (which is stamped on the side of your old main and rod bearings) as you did before.

I have all stock bearings. Honda has they tightest and most rigid standards of clearances than any aftermarket ones IMHO.

But maybe those ACL bearings have already taken into consideration everything stated above.... I would call to verify any information and questions...

The ones that will come with your new crower rods will be more than fine honestly. No worries there.

The Kaizenspeed balance shaft eliminator kit is interesting. I just read through all of their information and the theories behind it. It makes sense on why it is done for that extra power. Especially when the motor is already completely dis-assembled.

Hopefully I helped....

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

You definitely did help, thanks for the write-up man!



At the RaceEng site, the items are listed for the F23 engine, so I am hoping that the specifications would be perfect.. I tried to call ACL just to make sure, but no one picked up.

ACL Rod Bearings - $75 http://www.raceeng.com/p-1040-hp-rod-bearinghon-k20a3f23k24a1.aspx
There is also a version that says EXTRA CLR, what does that mean? Extra clearance? And how do I know if I need those as opposed to the regular ones?
EXTRA CLR http://www.raceeng.com/p-1041-hp-rod-bearinghon-k20a3f23k24a1.aspx

ACL Crank Bearings - $85 http://www.raceeng.com/p-12222-hp-main-brgd16a6z6zch22a4b20a5b21f23a-set.aspx
There is also a version that says EXTRA CLR, what does that mean? Extra clearance? And how do I know if I need those as opposed to the regular ones?
EXTRA CLR http://www.raceeng.com/p-9592-hp-main-brgd16a6z6zch22a4-xclr-set.aspx



I called ARP for the main bolts, they didn't find any in stock. Same for rod bolts.

Searched for F23 ARP main bolts on google and got this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-208-5401/
ARP 208-5401 - Would these be correct to purchase?

I proceeded to research if any bolts were interchangeable, and found that the K20A3 rod bolts are the same as the F23. Here are the ones I am planning on purchasing:
http://lightningmotorsports.com/arp/arp_connecting_rod_bolt_kits/2086003/i-61503.aspx
ARP 208-6003 - Would these be correct to purchase?




Talked with the shop about installing the Kaizenspeed kit, they said it would cost around $65. Just ordered the Kaizenspeed full eliminator kit for $155. It's normally $125 ($10 shipping), but they gave me an extra part/plate for $20 which removes a pulley that the original kit does not remove.

Ordered 12oz. Torco MPZ engine assembly lube.




Anyone know specs on these bolts for our engine (ARP Bolts - Clutch, Flywheel and Pressure Plate)? I'd like to upgrade these too. Should I look for K20A3 analogs, or is there another engine in which these bolts are the same as the F23?

ARP Bolts - Clutch, Flywheel and Pressure Plate
Flywheel and Flexplate bolts play an important role in the performance and safety of race cars and street machines alike. That’s why the fastener experts at ARP have developed special bolts that are far superior to OEM hardware. ARP offers two styles of Flywheel/Flexplate bolts: High Performance and Pro Series. They are both forged from aerospace alloy and heat-treated prior to thread rolling and machining. Both feature an exclusive, flat, 12-point head design and larger than stock shank diameter for increased strength and improved flywheel register. The popular High Performance series is rated at 180,000 psi, and the premium grade Pro Series, originally developed for NASCAR Winston Cup competition, has a 200,000 psi rating. Complete with washers and nuts where applicable.

The importance of pressure plate bolts in a racing or hi-performance street application cannot be emphasized nearly enough. These fasteners play a key role in both the performance and safety of a vehicle. Because of this, ARP has developed special pressure plate bolts that are application specific to ensure the optimum grip length. ARP offers High Performance Series bolts that are made from a premium grade chrome moly and hardened to a nominal tensile strength of 180,000 psi. The Pro Series bolts, originally developed for NASCAR Winston Cup competition, are stronger and rated at 200,000 psi. Both models feature a large diameter, low-profile design. Complete with washers.

Pressure Plate Bolts B16A, B18A-B, B18C1, B18C5, B20, and K20/K24 108-2202

Pressure Plate Bolts D16 and D16 Engines 108-2201

Flywheel Bolts B16A, B18A-B, B18C1, B18C5, B20, and K20/K24 208-2802

Flywheel Bolts D16 Engines 208-2801



Called Darton today, they claimed not to have the sleeves for F23. They said to call back again after Dec. 17, since the dude who I talked to will be back then. Where did you get your block guard Devin? I know it is Golden Eagle, but how the hell did you source it? Also.. I need ideas for alternative sleeve manufacturers for our engine, just in case Darton falls through.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 12/1/10*

Evening bump.

As far as the MAP sensor, should I get this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-0...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

or this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OMNI...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The first one looks more like our OEM one, and looks more user-friendly. I have seen the other one used too I think, but I am unsure.

Can anyone shed some light? I'm going with a 4-bar.