★ Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! ★ *UPDATED 4/15* ★

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Got the head back!!

Here is the fresh dome:

Can anyone guess what this is for?

 

[FunnyVictor86]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

oil catch can?

 

[akoutmos]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Turbo heat shield

 

[FunnyVictor86]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

ah like the one moneypit made right?

 

[Steverino]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Can anyone guess what this is for?

I'm actually not sure if the heatshield has any FUNCTIONAL benefit in this particular engine layout seeing as the intake of your turbo charge piping isn't in the path of the turbo. . .it would only have the benefit of dissipating heat from the turbo in a uniform fashion. If anything I think you would want to keep the turbo as hot as possible to increase thermal efficiency. So unless you're coating the outside of the pot to keep the heat inside the pot - other than the aesthetic benefit - it doesn't serve a lot of purpose.

I entertained this very idea with Moneypit and we both concluded that it was rather pointless for an inline 4 application.

 

[mraw112]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Did you break a bolt where the downpipe meets the turbine housing?

Also the exhaust valves, and spark plugs are white usually because of heat. It could be from running too retarded of ignition timing, or lean. retarding your ignition makes your car run hotter and have higher egts.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Steverino - Well, maybe in the meantime I'll just use it to make some stew, I am pressed on time as it is right now anyways to make it. Project for later.



Thanks for the input Nate. I was def having problems because of a head gasket leak, and now it should be fixed as soon as I assembly everything.

Yes, I did break a bolt off in the turbo housing how did you know. It's the top bolt, the one that has the most access/clearance luckily. I am going to extract the mess tonight and retap the hole for another bolt.

I'll also be putting in the ARP studs. I understand that the top nuts need to be torqued 270 degrees more than their torque spec so that they can stretch. I plan to follow the torque pattern posted in the head bolt thread.

When it comes to putting the studs into the block, I plan to use two nuts, tighten them together, then tighten the studs down into the block. Does anyone know what torque they need to be tightened down in the block to?

 

[mraw112]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Ive broken those bolts before. luckly mine always sat out alittle just enough to get them with the vice grips. I dont know how much it would put you out of your way, but I would strongly recommend getting a vband attachment welding on to your down pipe where it meets the turbine. those things are amazing and save so much time. You never have to struggle with those annoying bolts that are right under the bend of the piping.

 

[finch13]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Here's a good guide, disregard the torque specs and orders and everything Camaro related.

I talked to a few people and this guide and they both says the studs do not need to be torque, just bottomed out. Don't forget where the shorter (or is it longer?) stud goes too.

http://www.blackcamaro.com/headstud.htm

 

[HondaLuver83]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

So did you regrind the valves and seats? New valve seals?

I always like seeing a fresh cylinder head.


Here's mine off my 2JJZGE

Only 90k on this badboy




I wish I could help you with the stud install, but I have no idea what the specs are for that kind of deal.

Just make sure you follow standard procedure when installing a cylinder head. Use an accurate torque wrench. I always change the oil and drain the coolant out the block just because of the particles that can fall into the block galleries during deck preparation.


If your cylinder wall dont have vertical scoring, then you have nothing to worry about. The carbon is normal. If it really bothers you, you can bring each piston at TDC. Put a little coolant on there...wait a while..then wipe it all off with a rag.