★ Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! ★ *UPDATED 4/15* ★

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Ive broken those bolts before. luckly mine always sat out alittle just enough to get them with the vice grips. I dont know how much it would put you out of your way, but I would strongly recommend getting a vband attachment welding on to your down pipe where it meets the turbine. those things are amazing and save so much time. You never have to struggle with those annoying bolts that are right under the bend of the piping.

That's a good idea Nate, I've wanted to do this for quite some time, but haven't found the part, the time, and the funds yet. The other issue may be the motor mount / downpipe clearance after the V-band is installed. I have heard people having issues with them on our setups, or maybe they just did it wrong or didn't go through with the project. I'll def look into it because you're right - it's way more convenient, hassle-free, and easy to disconnect.

Here's a good guide, disregard the torque specs and orders and everything Camaro related.

I talked to a few people and this guide and they both says the studs do not need to be torque, just bottomed out. Don't forget where the shorter (or is it longer?) stud goes too.

http://www.blackcamaro.com/headstud.htm

Thanks for the help Brandon! Definitely good to know about bottoming and not torquing the bolts into the block.

I've assembled the head, so I'll be entertaining myself tomorrow tightening up studs, attaching sensors and hoses, and drilling/tapping out the broken downpipe bolt.

More updates tomorrow.

 

[GlassJAw]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Your snail looks keyring sized in that last pic

Whats the time frame for having it all back together dude??

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

So did you regrind the valves and seats? New valve seals?

I always like seeing a fresh cylinder head.



I wish I could help you with the stud install, but I have no idea what the specs are for that kind of deal.

Just make sure you follow standard procedure when installing a cylinder head. Use an accurate torque wrench. I always change the oil and drain the coolant out the block just because of the particles that can fall into the block galleries during deck preparation.


If your cylinder wall dont have vertical scoring, then you have nothing to worry about. The carbon is normal. If it really bothers you, you can bring each piston at TDC. Put a little coolant on there...wait a while..then wipe it all off with a rag.

Thanks for your advice man. I've already drained the oil obviously, but how to I drain the block of the coolant in the galleys? I think a few pieces of lint and dust may have already made their way in there..

Your snail looks keyring sized in that last pic

Whats the time frame for having it all back together dude??

Haha toy turbozzz! It will all be back together tomorrow at latest, if I don't encounter any unforeseen issues.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Extracted the remnants of the broken bolt and extractor bit. Salvaged half the threads in the hole, and need to now retap it with 8mm tap. Looking good so far. About to begin engine assembly and accessory reattachment.

 

[Erik123456789]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

sweet dude, so far it looks good! if you lived in cali we coulda tuned our cars the same day to get a major discount lol

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Yeah that's true. Would have been awesome.

Speaking of tune, I'm not getting it tuned just yet, since it's already tuned well. Just assembling everything together, breaking it in, then traveling 1900 miles to Oklahoma on the current tune. Once I get there I'll need to work out a kink or two, and get it re-tuned at a higher PSI.

After this is assembled, I don't plan on boosting or pushing it hard at all - going to drive like a granny. As long as I make it to OKC everything should be fine.

As far as travelling, is there a weight limit on coilovers? I plan to pack my car full, but not totally jam packed like before. Obviously I'm going to raise the coils. Will the 1900 miles worth of travelling with weight affect the coils in a negative way at all? Should they be at the softest, stiffest, or a medium setting for the trip?

 

[GlassJAw]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

If you are going to be doin mostly hiway driving on the trip I would say that a softer setting would prevent the shocks from working overtime. How much weight do you estimate you will be putting in the car??

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

I guess most of the added weight will be towards the back of the car naturally - trunk and rear seats. I'm sure they will be packed full, and even obstruct my rear view. Probably 400 lbs I'm assuming? Maybe a bit more. Really hard to tell how much everything together would weigh. I'll put them 2 clicks past medium, towards the softer side .

Most of the sh*t I'll have will be my clothes, computer, guitar, tools, and a few select car parts. Other odds/ends as well, but overall that's the main makeup.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

Well, head gasket changed, ARP studs installed and now almost everything is back together. I got the sensors and wires hooked up except one. I'll try to find its other end tomorrow, but I forget where it fell lol. It's all downhill from here, just 'basic' bolt-ons left, literally.

As you can see, needing a wire tuck pretty badly. People don't realize how bad it really is until the bay is disassembled and one can see more pipes and wires than the engine takes up room.

Should be firing up tomorrow (later today) if all goes well.

 

[HondaLuver83]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/25*

There should be a freeze plug on the block somewhere. I dont know for sure where, someone on here can help??

On most cars, there is a nipple somewhere around the block and a bolt above it. Attach a small hose to the nipple, put it in a bucket or something and then loosen the bolt. Coolant should come out the block through the hose.