l1nd3n
Well-Known Member
Ok, this is the start of what will probably be a long build. My motto is to build as cheap as I can with the best quality. Meaning, I buy nothing new or at least from a vendor besides oem gaskets and such. I'm sure I will probably have to buy a few new things.
I guess this is not an H22A4 build any more but still an H22. I will keep posting my progress as I get parts and work done.
My progress so far-
X-11/1/13 Purchased an H22A4 motor with a blown head gasket. Came with intake also. $250- (Not going to use now due to scorch on cyl wall.) Selling it, going to keep the crank
X-I have removed the head from the block and washed both the block and head. It is in great shape. I have taken cams out to examine better. Going to sell this P13 head.
-11/16/13 Purchased a JDM H22A PDE head. $260
Has the PDE stamp and looks to be in good shape. Thinking I will upgrade the valves and springs. Measured the lobes and the are indeed larger than my A4 P13 head so I feel good about the deal I got.
-11/29/13 Got the JDM H22A block and Type S pistons and rods with crank for $420. The crank has a spun rod bearing and will probably be replaced. Going to try and sell the crank. Need to examine the rods.
-12/21/13
-Removed crank from the A4 motor and found it to be in great shape. Will just get rid of the one with the spun bearing.
-Removed valvetrain from PDE Type-S head.
-Clean that and my H22A block at the carwash and then washed in my dishwasher at home. Used pots and pans cycle with heated rinse and wash. Wiped out and did an empty wash with a cup of vinegar after and found no trace of grease or oil.
01/24/14
-Spoke with Endyn in fort worth about their head port job and cost. Said it starts at about 2200 and goes up to 2500 or more. I said thanks and went elsewhere. I am sure it would be a bad *** head but that is too much money.
-Took my head to Arlington Automotive Machine. Spoke with the owner Eddy. Very nice guy. He milled the head .005in, gave it a 3 angle valve job with a 4th radius cut, new intake/ exhaust valve guides and soda blasted for me. He also checked the stock springs, they were all within 5 lbs of eachother. I will leave them as they are and spend the money elsewhere.
02/14/14
-picked up head. All that cost 395 bucks. I was happy.
02/18/14
-Dropped H22A block, crank and type-s pistons to have everything checked and balanced.
03/04/14
-Picked block up from machine shop. Crank and pistons balanced, block was cleaned up and ready for assebly. $200
-During the rest of march I received my rings, head bolts, oil pump, bearings, manual tensioner conversion kit, head gasket, timing belts...and a few other replacement parts I can't remember right now.
-Oh, I got a replica Hytech header from Kronn on prelude power. (won't post price since he requested that people on his group buy to not do so, but it's a great deal).
08/29/14
Yes its been a while. Money and the wiring for this damn thing are difficult to come by.
-The motor is assembled. ie. all internals, oil pan to valve cover.
-I have the intake manifold on but will come back off prior to install.
-So far I have determined that I will have issues with:
-will need to convert from obd2a to obd2b (all obd2 preludes are obd2a. 2000(I think), 2001 and 2002 accords are obd2b)
-will need to wire up the IAB (secondary butterfly valves) so it will actuate. I believe this is 2 pins on the ecu, maybe just one with a ground attached to another plug)
-learned that the IAB system requires an air tank mounted below the intake manifold, which I didn't have, 50 bucks ebay fixed that). Now I have mounted the tank with the actuator attached to it.
-the power steering line. I have read to use the accord and prelude one together or to just force it on. Have not decided what I will do yet.
-The driver side motor mount. I will probably grind the accord one with a bench grinder. I think there are after market ones available to order or get one from a European or Japanese parts supplier (euro r, sir accord, toreno, type s)
-A local dealer said they would reprogram the ECU I have that is designed for a manual h22a4 car. 120 dollars if I remember right.
-Wiring my 4 wire distributor to the 6 wire td77u one that came with the h22a4. After looking at the wiring diagrams I know its going to work, I just have to do it now.
-I will add more if I run into or think of something else.
ECU- I am about to compare the pin out for a 97 obd2a prelude to my 01 obd2b accord. Hopefully it will match up really well.
-I am getting close to being able to drop this thing in. I estimate another 500 bucks to finish everything.
-12/22/14- Another 500, pipedreams. It cost a lot of money to do this thing right. The motor is built and all dialed in.
- I ordered a exedy stage 1 clutch.
- Since posting last I did pickup a H22A T2W4 LSD transmission. $800... hard to choke that down. But a good price.
- I did a minor port and polish on the intake manifold. More of a gasket match but it took a long *** time to do it.
-I have a full 2 1/2 inch exhaust now with a magnaflow 2 1/2 cat and OBX twin loop muffler. Still too loud for me so i have ordered vibrant ultra quiet resonator.
-OH!! The best part about buying the transmission was the extras that came with it. It came with the shifter cables that I need and a JUN lightweight flywheel. After seeing that, I felt like I made out like a bandit.
-Hopefully today I can get my prelude ecu reflashed to match my accord immobilizer.
-I also ordered the converstion bracket for the driver motor mount.
I did say this would be a long build. I hit the one year mark in November. I'm so ready to get this installed. One for the power and to get the other half of my garage back.
I want this to go as smooth as possible once I do the install. The hard part is going to be the wiring I'm sure. I did find some help here on the forum and hopefully it will be enough.
So far it appears I would be better off to just buy a JDM H22A complete engine. But we will see where I am at after selling parts. Plus the amount of labor I am saving not having to disassemble a lot of this stuff is important to me. I can just prep what I need for the machine shop and get it done. Plus in the end I will have a new motor.
JDM Type-S Piston
JDM H22A Block- Glad to see a nice smooth wall compaired to my last puchase.
Pictures as promised-
H22A PDE Type-S Cylinder Head
Before Dishwasher-
After Dishwasher-
Valvetrain-
New Skunk2 Valves-
Cylinder Side-
After Machine Shop-
Cylinder Side-
Top Side-
H22A Engine
Block-
I guess this is not an H22A4 build any more but still an H22. I will keep posting my progress as I get parts and work done.
My progress so far-
X-11/1/13 Purchased an H22A4 motor with a blown head gasket. Came with intake also. $250- (Not going to use now due to scorch on cyl wall.) Selling it, going to keep the crank
X-I have removed the head from the block and washed both the block and head. It is in great shape. I have taken cams out to examine better. Going to sell this P13 head.
-11/16/13 Purchased a JDM H22A PDE head. $260
Has the PDE stamp and looks to be in good shape. Thinking I will upgrade the valves and springs. Measured the lobes and the are indeed larger than my A4 P13 head so I feel good about the deal I got.
-11/29/13 Got the JDM H22A block and Type S pistons and rods with crank for $420. The crank has a spun rod bearing and will probably be replaced. Going to try and sell the crank. Need to examine the rods.
-12/21/13
-Removed crank from the A4 motor and found it to be in great shape. Will just get rid of the one with the spun bearing.
-Removed valvetrain from PDE Type-S head.
-Clean that and my H22A block at the carwash and then washed in my dishwasher at home. Used pots and pans cycle with heated rinse and wash. Wiped out and did an empty wash with a cup of vinegar after and found no trace of grease or oil.
01/24/14
-Spoke with Endyn in fort worth about their head port job and cost. Said it starts at about 2200 and goes up to 2500 or more. I said thanks and went elsewhere. I am sure it would be a bad *** head but that is too much money.
-Took my head to Arlington Automotive Machine. Spoke with the owner Eddy. Very nice guy. He milled the head .005in, gave it a 3 angle valve job with a 4th radius cut, new intake/ exhaust valve guides and soda blasted for me. He also checked the stock springs, they were all within 5 lbs of eachother. I will leave them as they are and spend the money elsewhere.
02/14/14
-picked up head. All that cost 395 bucks. I was happy.
02/18/14
-Dropped H22A block, crank and type-s pistons to have everything checked and balanced.
03/04/14
-Picked block up from machine shop. Crank and pistons balanced, block was cleaned up and ready for assebly. $200
-During the rest of march I received my rings, head bolts, oil pump, bearings, manual tensioner conversion kit, head gasket, timing belts...and a few other replacement parts I can't remember right now.
-Oh, I got a replica Hytech header from Kronn on prelude power. (won't post price since he requested that people on his group buy to not do so, but it's a great deal).
08/29/14
Yes its been a while. Money and the wiring for this damn thing are difficult to come by.
-The motor is assembled. ie. all internals, oil pan to valve cover.
-I have the intake manifold on but will come back off prior to install.
-So far I have determined that I will have issues with:
-will need to convert from obd2a to obd2b (all obd2 preludes are obd2a. 2000(I think), 2001 and 2002 accords are obd2b)
-will need to wire up the IAB (secondary butterfly valves) so it will actuate. I believe this is 2 pins on the ecu, maybe just one with a ground attached to another plug)
-learned that the IAB system requires an air tank mounted below the intake manifold, which I didn't have, 50 bucks ebay fixed that). Now I have mounted the tank with the actuator attached to it.
-the power steering line. I have read to use the accord and prelude one together or to just force it on. Have not decided what I will do yet.
-The driver side motor mount. I will probably grind the accord one with a bench grinder. I think there are after market ones available to order or get one from a European or Japanese parts supplier (euro r, sir accord, toreno, type s)
-A local dealer said they would reprogram the ECU I have that is designed for a manual h22a4 car. 120 dollars if I remember right.
-Wiring my 4 wire distributor to the 6 wire td77u one that came with the h22a4. After looking at the wiring diagrams I know its going to work, I just have to do it now.
-I will add more if I run into or think of something else.
ECU- I am about to compare the pin out for a 97 obd2a prelude to my 01 obd2b accord. Hopefully it will match up really well.
-I am getting close to being able to drop this thing in. I estimate another 500 bucks to finish everything.
-12/22/14- Another 500, pipedreams. It cost a lot of money to do this thing right. The motor is built and all dialed in.
- I ordered a exedy stage 1 clutch.
- Since posting last I did pickup a H22A T2W4 LSD transmission. $800... hard to choke that down. But a good price.
- I did a minor port and polish on the intake manifold. More of a gasket match but it took a long *** time to do it.
-I have a full 2 1/2 inch exhaust now with a magnaflow 2 1/2 cat and OBX twin loop muffler. Still too loud for me so i have ordered vibrant ultra quiet resonator.
-OH!! The best part about buying the transmission was the extras that came with it. It came with the shifter cables that I need and a JUN lightweight flywheel. After seeing that, I felt like I made out like a bandit.
-Hopefully today I can get my prelude ecu reflashed to match my accord immobilizer.
-I also ordered the converstion bracket for the driver motor mount.
I did say this would be a long build. I hit the one year mark in November. I'm so ready to get this installed. One for the power and to get the other half of my garage back.
I want this to go as smooth as possible once I do the install. The hard part is going to be the wiring I'm sure. I did find some help here on the forum and hopefully it will be enough.
So far it appears I would be better off to just buy a JDM H22A complete engine. But we will see where I am at after selling parts. Plus the amount of labor I am saving not having to disassemble a lot of this stuff is important to me. I can just prep what I need for the machine shop and get it done. Plus in the end I will have a new motor.
JDM Type-S Piston
JDM H22A Block- Glad to see a nice smooth wall compaired to my last puchase.
Pictures as promised-
H22A PDE Type-S Cylinder Head
Before Dishwasher-
After Dishwasher-
Valvetrain-
New Skunk2 Valves-
Cylinder Side-
After Machine Shop-
Cylinder Side-
Top Side-
H22A Engine
Block-
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![Prelude%201[1] (2)
Our 1987 Lude](/forums/data/xfmg/thumbnail/2/2347-5f46eff3826879eb84d94f6d15d7ac10.jpg?1695467880)
