98 Accord hits top end at 4000rpm

98racer

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is that the blue coupe that was on craigslist a while ago? lol

you ever race in the dells?

Yah it was on Craigslist. My wife and I have practiced at the Dell with a 94 Prelude. We raced at the Dells about 8 tears ago in a Pure Stock.

I have a O2 sensor because until I get it to perform to my expectasions Im leaving the basics.
John
 

98racer

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The tweeking of the ECU is one of my questions.
How or can I disable the CEL?
Can I hot wire the VTEC to a toggle switch,and flip it when in race mode?
Battery conections are good. Im checking the plug wires today.


If your racing, why the hell would you need an O2 sensor anyways? do straight exhaust 2.25inch. Put a O2 defouler where the o2 sensor is supposed to be and screw the o2 sensor into the defouler. They are like 40 bucks.


Make sure your car is receiving adequate spark. Use a multimeter and test for resistance on your wires, test your relays and make sure your battery is well grounded and not corroded at the chassis.


Also, your throttle position sensor and your engine coolant sensor both work together. ECT detects your engine coolant temp and adjusts your fuel ratio in sync with your TPS sensor.


These engines were not designed for racing, so its possible you need to do some tweaking to the ECU so you can run the car hard for very long periods. I would start with whats easier and cheaper, then work my way down.
 

BlkCurrantKord

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No, you can't lock in vtec by hitting a switch. VTEC engaging is dependant on oil pressure, throttle, etc. Unless you plan on doing some valvetrain modification there's really no point in trying to have VTEC always engaged.

As for the rest of your problems. You need to start somewhere and start diagnosing.
 

finch13

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I dont think any wiring was alterd. What is the VSS and where on the trans is it? The a/c is removed as well as the center dash(radio, heater controlls etc.)
All being unpluged
John

The Vehicle Speed Sensor is located on the back of the tranny housing (firewall side) and it's nearly directly below the thermostat housing. Don't confuse it with the reverse light switch. Those are the only 2 electrical pieces on the 5 spd.
 

Drift

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3 Words:

Stand-alone management.

Is this a dedicated race car?
 

finch13

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3 Words:

Stand-alone management.

Is this a dedicated race car?


Pretty sure it's just a circle track enduro stock car... I haven't seen too many people dump a load of money into their track cars, at least in Minnesota. My buddy races a stripped down '95 Saturn SL1 here. I'd assume the OP is racing stock cars too, which have to meet the rules. Engine management probably wouldn't meet them.
 

Drift

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ok, 86 the stand alone. How about converting to OBDI and running no emissions?

If the car doesnt rev over 4k rpm, its in limp mode. If not, check the plugs, Ive seen fouled plugs cause some rev issues.

There isnt enough info in this thread to diag this issue.
 

98racer

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Thanks for all the replies. What is a stand alone unit?
You are onto something here. How do I convert to an OBD1?
This is an enduro car I paid 200 dollars for. I seemed to run good until I took it to the track.
We have raced locally in a 4cyl class with good results. Now we are looking to step it up.
One thing I would like to do is strip every unneeded wire out of one of our cars. To do this I will need to find out witch wires are nessesary, and witch aren't.
I checked the plugs they looked good but replaced them.
Talk to me.
John
This car only get driven on the Oval tracks. Doors welded shut, 6 point cage, 5 point harness,
Window net and racing seat.
 
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Drift

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The idea of switching to OBDI is to open up tuning opportunities. Much like a Stand alone ECU, however a full stand alone has a lot more capabilities and you really dont need it.

If you're have issues now, the best bet is not try to solve them through changing the ecu, but to find out whats causing the issues, fix them, and then change the ecu.

If the car is not revving over 4k rpm, something is wrong and its not the computer. Are there any check engine lights? (I dont feel like re-reading the thread.)

As for the occasional no-start, Id replace the main relay. Im assuming this was a beat-up, high mileage car if you only paid $200 for it.

I need more info about the revving issue to be useful.


**Search the forums for OBDI conversion to find more info on that.
 
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