Clutch problem - urgent!

[Mike's_Taffeta]

When it comes tohydraulic clutch problems you have obvious issues like leaks, torn boots, cracked rubber lines, kinked rigid lines, or even broken pedals (1st gen DSM's) then you have the tricky problems like air getting in the system.

If you don't have a leak or any of the above stated obvious problems, then its a process of elimination. If you have a buddy with the same car then maybe you could start swapping components to see which is faulty. Its a tedious task but its better then forking out cash to a shop.

My friend has a 97 eclipse spyder that we did an auto to manual swap on. For the longest time he could not figure out why his clutch kept slipping. He had replaced all the lines, slave cylinder and master cylinder and still the problem persisted. So I went over there checked everything, bypassed the clutch dampener (used to help absorb the shock of the clutch engaging) and bled the system for an hour. After that it worked great, he was able to tear up and down the streets with out any slipping from the clutch.

 

[Mike's_Taffeta]

Also, replace any component that has signs of leakage, if fluid is getting out then its very likely that air is getting in.

 

[pattywak]

Also, replace any component that has signs of leakage, if fluid is getting out then its very likely that air is getting in.

Well here's my update: Since I need this done for sure by April 10, I went ahead and ordered a new reservoir hose, master cylinder, and slave cylinder. Hopefully by replacing these the problem will be fixed. Does anyone have a guide to how to replace both cylinders?

 

[F23A1AT]

The replacement is about as simple as unbolting them and replacing them. Your gonna have fun getting the master cylinder in though. Make sure you thoroughly bleed the system too. Oh and you will need to push the little pins holding in the ends of the clutch line out and put them in the new cylinders.

 

[Mike's_Taffeta]

If you look at them they're pretty self explanatory. Make sure you get line wrenches for the lines. A regular wrench will more then likely strip the b-nuts that secure the lines to the cylinders. Then you have to use vice grips and it gets all ugly.

Loosen the bolts holding the slave cylinder to the trans after you remove the line. It'll be dificult removing the line with the slave cylinder loose. Once you have it all disconnected the slave cylinder will come right out.

For the master cylinder you need to get under the dash where the pedals are and disconnect the master cylinder actuating rod from the pedal. Usually held on with a pin and clip. Then unbolt the cylinder from the firewall which is usually held on by two bolts. Sometimes they are the same bolts that mount the pedal housing in place. Once the bolts are removed you should be able to pull the slave cylinder away from the firewall in the engine bay. Oh and once again, make sure you disconnect the lines going to the cylinder first, it makes life easier.

Don't forget to use a line wrench probably a 10mm is all you would need. The slave is probably held on by 12mm bolts, and the master is 12mm nuts or bolts as well.

Hope that helps.

 

[Mike's_Taffeta]

=holy double post!!

 

[pattywak]

Thank you for the posts fellas. I will update you in due time.

 

[pattywak]

Well, I got an e-mail from hondaparts unlimited saying that some of the parts will be on backorder and will take a few days to ship out. I need this problem fixed by April 10th, so I called and they couldn't give me an estimate for how long it would take.

Cancelled my order with them, and called up advance auto as per advice from one of my friends that I trust. Parts came out to around 90 dollars for both the master and the slave, compared to 170 from honda and the parts will be there tomorrow for me to pick up.

One thing: Should I have anything to worry about replacing the master cylinder and slave cylinder with parts that are non-oem? My friend says it should be fine but my paranoid self is always worried.

 

[Mike's_Taffeta]

It should be fine. With aftermarket parts from autozone, kragen, pepboys, and advanced auto they have a lifetime warranty. So if it doesn't work take it back and get a new one. I'm pretty sure the dealer doesn't do that.

 

[hotaccord243]

no big worries at all with non-oem parts, however make sure you are getting the cast iron slave cylinder, not the plastic style. Honda upgraded from plastic after a few years, and a huge difference between the two, especially with an upgraded clutch. Trust me i've gone through several plastic ones...