DIY: "Boat look" Remedy for Accords on Lowering Springs

[HondaLuver83]

There is a reason the rear is slightly higher than the front. Balance and so when people or you have things in the back the car doesnt sag in the rear. You can have a lot of problems when your rear shocks have more pressure than the fronts when you are going around corners.

I just don't like messing with things like this since it may come to haunt you in the future.

 

[Sketch o5]

There is a reason the rear is slightly higher than the front. Balance and so when people or you have things in the back the car doesnt sag in the rear. You can have a lot of problems when your rear shocks have more pressure than the fronts when you are going around corners.

I just don't like messing with things like this since it may come to haunt you in the future.

what you have just said, makes absolutely no sense to this thread, at all.

 

[HondaLuver83]

I was referring to other peoples concerns, not directly to this thread. Sorry

 

[F23AJDM]

great write up

 

[Russianred]

So.. I have found something interesting.

A few days ago, I replaced the front struts on the accord. When looking at each fork, I noticed a lot of oxidation due to the fact that they are cast iron, and also that I had bored the fork with a dremel. The driver's side one is solid. The passenger side one is now questionable:

Now, note that this only happened on the top of the collar. When the fork is tightened, most of the pressure seems to be on the thicker, lower part of the collar - not the top part which has rusted through in my picture.

My theory on this is that since it was not machine bored, imperfection exists. This uneven boring caused water to accumulate under the collar, causing this gradual corrosion and rust and eventually leading to this result.

Is this now a risk to driving? Did this only happen because the side wall of the top collar was too thin, and rust ate through it? Please discuss this occurrence, as this is something new concerning the boat-look fix.

- Nikita

 

[likeawp]

^holy helll that doesn't look too safe ......I am guessing you bored the walls too thin.........rust solidified around that thin area.....and it probably cracked when you ran over a dip or bump under extremely hard duress

Did you bore the shock pillar at all? or just the walls inside the fork?........I did both to prevent boring the fork too thin like your situation

My opinion is to buy a new fork and redo it for safety.......or at least apply rust sealant to the area on the outside and go from there.....occasionally inspect it to see if that hole gets larger over time or not

 

[Russianred]

Nothing cracked, the way the hole was formed is when I was installing new struts, I shaved some oxidation from the inside of the fork so insertion/removal would be easier (there was a lot of rust built up on the inside). This is when the weakness/hole wes exposed and created by the dremel. I believe the rust just targeted that weakest area and when I lightly dremeled it - it formed that hole.

I agree - by rust sealant, you mean rust reformer? Or would rust-o-leum spray paint work for this if I just sprayed a sh*t-ton of it into the hole haha. What do you think?

Remember, that hole is on the thin top part of collar. The bottom part which is very thick, has no problems. You think I will be okay as long as I stop it from rusting further?

 

[likeawp]

I'm not the professional here haha........think you ought to wait for inputs from more seasoned people

but what I would do is spray rust-o-leum around the rusted area.........mask tape the hole from the inside to preserve the cylindrical volume......then apply some kind of hardening paste over the hole to strengthen it........just thinking out loud here

 

[AFAccord]

So.. I have found something interesting.

A few days ago, I replaced the front struts on the accord. When looking at each fork, I noticed a lot of oxidation due to the fact that they are cast iron, and also that I had bored the fork with a dremel. The driver's side one is solid. The passenger side one is now questionable:

Now, note that this only happened on the top of the collar. When the fork is tightened, most of the pressure seems to be on the thicker, lower part of the collar - not the top part which has rusted through in my picture.

My theory on this is that since it was not machine bored, imperfection exists. This uneven boring caused water to accumulate under the collar, causing this gradual corrosion and rust and eventually leading to this result.

Is this now a risk to driving? Did this only happen because the side wall of the top collar was too thin, and rust ate through it? Please discuss this occurrence, as this is something new concerning the boat-look fix.

- Nikita

Holy cow man!

I'm not sure what to say about that! Looks like you took a ton of material off that collar. I would say you could pack some axle grease down in there to keep the water out, but with the hole, I'd do as likeawp said and buy a fork from a junk yard to replace it.

I remember when I finished mine, the collar was still thick enough that I had no reservations about safety issues. I'd get a new fork and hit it again with the dremel, but keep test fitting it until it just barely fits very snugly. Try not to take off any more than needed.

 

[Russianred]

Good call man!