DIY LEDs gauge cluster

Discussion in 'DIY - Do It Yourself Forum' started by racerzedge, Jan 28, 2011.

Car Parts
  1. DizzyP

    DizzyP Well-Known Member

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    Making the world a better place. Much love to ya!


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  2. Sil2DrV6

    Sil2DrV6 Well-Known Member

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    I found out that there is no need to use a flat head screw driver, or any tools, to remove this piece.

    I almost broke off one of the clips by using a crew driver..

    This whole piece just pries off by pulling it out by hand. Just be brave and it WILL come off, as if you were to remove an inner door panel, lower dash board panel by the foot well, inner A-pillar triangle cover behind the side mirror base, etc. (Pulling it out quickly, rather than slowly.)
     
  3. sandydoull

    sandydoull Active Member

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    I think the trick is to just pull it out straight, I also broke one of my clips which was no big deal fwiw.

     
  4. DizzyP

    DizzyP Well-Known Member

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    I busted on off the bottom clips years ago. Basically it's two screws then I just use my hands and yank it out. Pro Tip: power steering wheel and if you can get stubby screw drivers or short handle ones it will reduce chance odd stripping screws. Also there are little rubber caps on the bottom inserts. Try not to lose then or you might end up with a raddling cluster.


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  5. Wht00Accord

    Wht00Accord Well-Known Member

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    Yes grab it the bezel frame from the top inside and pull forward. Once the top is free pull the bottom out. Easy as that and i didnt break any clips.
     
  6. DizzyP

    DizzyP Well-Known Member

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    Found this. Doesn't list them all but a really good start.

    http://articles.dashzracing.com/1998-2002-honda-accord-light-bulb-fitment-application-list/

    Can I recommend a few more columns? Alternate bulbs and LEDS from places like Radio Shack and how well they fit and "look" (color and brightness) and also possible comment for tips like adding resisters to reduce the brightness of lights or color filters to make the output more OEMish.

    Example is my clock backlight was working fine but I had had heard dat Radio Shack had had a twin pack of bulbs (model 272-1092) for $2. Amazon has a single bulb with housing OEM for $7. I just tested it out and the RS bulb fit perfectly in the housing and the brightness is just a smidgen higher but barely noticeable and color was a perfect match (white light from bulb).

    Pro Tip: The RS wire leads are long, cut one about a quarter inch shorter before routing in housing so your wires don't get crossed (literally and figuratively).


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  7. sandydoull

    sandydoull Active Member

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    My list was more focused on the miniature bulbs in the dash and switches, the other larger bulbs for interior lighting and such are easier to find online, I have had zero interest for this list so far so seems like developiong it further would be a waste of time.:banghead:

     
  8. sandydoull

    sandydoull Active Member

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    I also wonder the same as the post below, when I installed an LED the bulb was constantly lit, I didnt really intend on changing the fuel light bulb, just wasnt sure which bulbs were for backlighting and which were for the fuel light, btw is the fuel light the black bulb holder with the wires attached to it??

     
  9. Wagnasty

    Wagnasty Member

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    Sorry to be such a noob, but after reading all 16 pages i am a little confused.
    Vehicle is a 2000 Accord Sedan EX V6 auto. I plan to order all the bulbs from sbl. In addition to the cluster I am also wanting to do the manual climate control, clock, cruise/fog/sunroof switch. Some of the bulbs I saw talked about on here were not on the website that I saw.

    Clock: (1qty) 3mm twist lock
    Fog switch: (2qty) 3mm twist lock
    Cruise switch: (2qty) 3mm twist lock
    Sunroof switch: (2qty) 3mm twist lock

    Will the NEOx 4mm work on those or is there something else I should be using on those?
    https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...led-bulb-high-power-instrument-panel-led/221/
    [​IMG]

    On the manual climate control there are 3 twist in bulbs that were refered as a "T4.2" not sure what that is. Is the same as the 3mm twist lock? and 1 wedge type referred as a "74" do I need a 74 "3 smd" wedge type or would the NEOx 5mm work?
    Climate1:
    Climate2:
    Climate3:
    Climate4: 74

    Same question with the shift selector in the center console. It shows a 74 bulb would the 74 "3 smd" bulb work here or is there a better option?
    Automatic Shift Selector: 74.
    https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...led-bulb-3-smd-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/228/
    [​IMG]

    Then the cluster. I see that superbrightled offers a high output B10 led and they also offer multiple other options for the 194 style bulb. I was personally looking at the 5 smd. https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...led-bulb-5-smd-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/206/
    [​IMG]

    What is my best option here and if I read correctly I would need 3?
    The other bulbs I believe are 74? Which one works best, and I also do I need 3 for the cluster?

    And lastly there are 2 bulbs that are above the cluster that were a 74. Do the 3smd bulbs work here or is there a better option?

    Sorry for the long post just got confused. Thanks in advance
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2014
  10. sandydoull

    sandydoull Active Member

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    The sizing on the neo wedge bulbs is a nightmare tbh they have different names on different websites but what you need to determine is that the base diamater is correct either 8,10 or 12mm, the clock backlight I know is the one with the 8mm base (3mm would be referring to the diamater of the actual bulb itself 8mm is the measuremnt of the plastic holder).

    The shift light bulb is this one: http://www.bulbtown.com/74_Miniature_Bulb_Glass_Wedge_Base_p/74.htm

    The most important thing is to determine the measurements of the bulb itself and do not excedd the rated wattage as shown in my list in this thread.

    I'm not sure of the specific site you are referring to but if the forum rules allow post links to specific bulbs and we can try help you out.

     

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