Engine knock: DIY Rebuild?

[MusicMan374]

I've had a knock in the engine going for over a year now mainly under load (hillclimbing) or when free-revving the engine, getting progressively worse. I took it to a mechanic who confirmed it was a mechanical engine knock (not detonation or CV axles), and will probably eventually result in a thrown rod at some point in the future, be it next week or 50k miles later. He initially thought it was a broken piston skirt but he pulled the oil pan and found nothing after extensive searching with a scope. He said without tearing the engine down, there's no way of knowing what it is and it's not worth it to tear it down.

I don't have the money to pay for a rebuilt engine + labor to install. I would hardly have had the money to pay for repairs if it was a piston skirt. I have read however, that some were able to perform a rebuild of the engine without pulling it out of the car.

Some basic info: I have a 2000 EX manual transmission 4-door, F23A4 ULEV engine. Only 107k miles.

Some questions: Is there any way to know in advance whether I would need to do a full rebuild or just a top end rebuild or just a bottom end rebuild? Is it even possible to do a rebuild with the engine in the car? I don't have the time or tools to completely remove the engine. I have jackstands, most basic mechanics' tools, and a garage, but no engine hoist. The timing belt was just done at 90k, clutch was just done at around 100 or 102k, so I have no need to do that. I'm just wondering if it's possible to do an engine rebuild with it in the car using a rebuild kit.

If I can't do the work myself, I will either sell it (which I REALLY don't want to do, as I've already put so much into this car) or I will drive it until it blows (I don't like this option either since I'm a college student who makes multiple interstate road trips a year going home for the holidays and summer and such, and I can't afford to have it blow in the middle of a rural highway).

Finally, is there a chance at all that this is an arbitrary knock that isn't actually something to worry about, or is it for sure a ticking timebomb?

 

[Valet]

A knock is never really a good sign. I've never heard of an engine rebuild with it still in the car. If the problem is something in the head then it is certainly doable without removing the whole damn thing.

 

[wnt_2b_boosted]

There would be no point to do a top end rebuild... rods are on the bottom the junk yards around my town sell motors for like $300.. I would find a friend with a engine hoist and do the swap after it blows 6 hrs max..

 

[MusicMan374]

I do know someone with an engine hoist. Are junk engines really trustworthy though? Are there any good places to buy remanned engines? It knocks consistently climbing hills, and for sustained periods of time until I reach the top of a hill, and it will occasionally knock when free-revving, so it's not to the point of most rod knock cases you see on youtube where it sounds like a big rig diesel at idle, but it's headed that way I think. Is it worth it to swap now? Or should I wait until it blows like you said? I don't like the idea of getting a junkyard engine, would be more comfortable with a remanned one, even at a higher expense.

If I do end up doing a DIY swap out, what kind of work should I do while the engine is out? Clutch was just done, so I don't think that would be worth it. Would I need more than 2 jack stands? Other than basic mechanic's tools, what specialty tools would I need? I'm having a hard time finding any good DIY guides. I do have a haynes manual that I will consult as well if I go this route. Is this more worth it do you think than selling it as is and getting a new used car?

 

[wnt_2b_boosted]

very junk yard around me gives you compression across the board and a 30 or 60 day warranty... So i don't see why not? Engine swap is pretty easy some sockets and a breaker bar, maybe an extra set of hands.. i say check timing and do a valve adjustment and if it ends up blowing spend a day doing the swap follow your manual that's how I learned..

 

[twofast4u]

Try looking to see if you can get a jdm engine from Japan. They normally have lower km. I got mine delivered to my place for $450. however prices are different everywhere.

 

[MusicMan374]

Where can I find JDM sources? I have already checked timing and done a valve adjustment, several months ago, didn't fix anything except for some valve clatter. I'll look at some junk yards, but I feel like a fresh, clean, remanufacture will last longer. I'm strongly considering the swap, especially since it's so cheap to do it yourself. Thanks for all of the advice guys. Where did you get your JDM engine from?

 

[wnt_2b_boosted]

Ebay.... Google till you find a deal... My buddy got his h22 on ebay shipped for a grand.

 

[wnt_2b_boosted]

B&R is a pretty good junk yard! In the northwest anyway never let me down!

 

[schmiddr2]

A rebuild is not hard. If you can put it back the same way the parts came out then you got it covered, as long as you use correct torque specs. If you have rod knock then take the engine out, have the cylinders honed, crank micro-polished (if in spec), Then get new rings, bearings (to match crank spec) and rod bolts. Of course gaskets too. Might as well replace the water pump and timing belt if they have not been changed in a while. Then when it's all back together set valve timing and done.

Don't forget cleaning supplies and fluids.

I have never tried to replace bearings and repair crank (if needed) while still in the car, but if you can get the oil pan off then I don't see the harm in taking it off to have to at least have a look. Although be careful, as there are many pinch points for fingers. Ouch.