g23 vtec swap

jaron001

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ahhh now you getting me! i see it as the 9.7 would be fine for boost and wouldnt suck as much as the 8.8 im gonna see with the f23 pistons. i know the 9.7 wont be at full potential and 8.8 wont either unless FI comes into to play but for a fun ride i think the 9.7 cr with some extra work will land me me easy at 210whp. and still cheaper then a full h-swap
 

Kid2000EX

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ahhh now you getting me! i see it as the 9.7 would be fine for boost and wouldnt suck as much as the 8.8 im gonna see with the f23 pistons. i know the 9.7 wont be at full potential and 8.8 wont either unless FI comes into to play but for a fun ride i think the 9.7 cr with some extra work will land me me easy at 210whp. and still cheaper then a full h-swap

Then you should look at investing in more aggressive cams but actually some forged 10:1 pistons might be good, thats what Paul on V6p uses on the v6 motors he builds but I wouldnt boost over 15lbs.
 

AFAccord

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i understand what your saying but for me i get tired of things FAST. so if a year or 2 from now i decide to boost that set up i wouldnt even look back at the money i spent on the head ect. i would be happier that i have tons of aftermarket support with endless amounts of turbo mani's, cams, valve train, with a unique set up



Every person I know who 'gets tire of things fast', owns a cheap civic, swaps motors here and there, and never holds on to one car for more than a year. Putting lots of money into something that you're going to get tired of quickly seem futile, but that's just me.


i FULLY truly understand where you are coming from but it will be fun for me to get the g23 to its full potential and when the time comes that shes all maxed out switch things up a bit the 2k, 3k, that would be spent in the process would be worth alot more then doing the norm if u get me


I don't understand how you consider $2000+ in parts for 9.7cr NA motor "full potential." That's mediocre at best. You could pull the head and have it shaved .020"-.030" to bump compression. My current head is shaved about .035", which theoretically puts me at 10:1. Hell if you just want something to tinker with and keep you busy, buy out my project (head, H23 IM, IM adapter plate, etc.). My point being, there are other mods you could do right now that would compliment BOTH N/A and boost builds. Besides, boring the block a full 1mm over, and boosting it on stock rods with domed pistons is a disaster waiting to happen, really.

Domed pistons are great for N/A builds. They're pretty much required. But, dished pistons are much more efficient than domed ones. Domed pistons are NOT good for boost, and even a slightly domed piston in a boosted engine creates MUCH more stress on components than a dished piston. If you read up on topics such as quench area, physics of flame travel, and side load, you'll understand why.


I think hes tryin to have a CR thats good for FI or NA. Honestly 9:7 wont bring out the full potential of the motor NA! Honestly its gotta be one or the other dude!!! For G23vtec seriously look at building an NA motor!

QFT. 9.7 is nothing for an all motor build. I bet my current F23 makes more than an H22/F23 @ 9.7cr.

...but for a fun ride i think the 9.7 cr with some extra work will land me me easy at 210whp. and still cheaper then a full h-swap

Cheaper than a swap, yes. Easy 210whp, keep dreaming. You're gonna need 11.5:1 K20 pistons, and a cam that's more aggressive than stock to break 200 without a LOT of other mods.

Then you should look at investing in more aggressive cams but actually some forged 10:1 pistons might be good, thats what Paul on V6p uses on the v6 motors he builds but I wouldnt boost over 15lbs.

The more aggressive the cam, the more compression you need for it to be useful. There are thousands of "Honda Guru's" out there with over-cammed motors.

Read up on Chris Bolis's IT article like everyone's said:

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0902_k24_vtec_vs_g23_vtec_tech_knowledge/index.html


Chris's H-T Build Thread:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2252451
 

Egi7

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G23 Vtec, Ha!! Save yourself the time, energy and yes, Money. This is a money pit in every sense of the word, unless you just dont care about how much you spend to make it a respectable build. You had better research this build extensively, and know what you are getting yourself into. Few, have made this work without spending lots of cash, ask yourself, could this be you? It being less than a H22 swap, to me is a myth. Once you get through the intricate items needed for the Frank you will have spent more than any pure H swap. I would elaborate alot further, but that was a long time ago. Anyone who has been on this forum longer than 2.5 yrs can back me up on this....


-Mike
 
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AFAccord

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G23 Vtec, Ha!! Save yourself the time, energy and yes, Money. This is a money pit in every sense of the word, unless you just dont care about how much you spend to make it a respectable build. You had better research this build extensively, and know what you are getting yourself into. Few, have made this work without spending lots of cash, ask yourself, could this be you? It being less than a H22 swap, to me is a myth. Once you get through the intricate items needed for the Frank you will have spent more than any pure H swap. I would elaborate alot further, but that was a long time ago. Anyone who has been on this forum longer than 2.5 yrs can back me up on this....


-Mike

I'll keep a tally on my build, but with all the planned parts so far (to include forged internals) I'll be sitting around $1634. Note that you won't get results like these for the cost of an H22 swap. :)
 

Egi7

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I was referring to Jaron001, and for a DD and $1550, my H22 LSD does just fine. Save the G-swaps for project civics.
 

AFAccord

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G23 Vtec, Ha!! Save yourself the time, energy and yes, Money. This is a money pit in every sense of the word, unless you just dont care about how much you spend to make it a respectable build.

You're right, 90% of these builds turn in to money pits, but let's be fair here, and acknowledge that this is true only because once they've begun, they realize that OTS items that would make the build better are only a bit more than OE components. Besides, even with all OEM parts, a 97mm stroked H22 @ 11.5cr would surely put down better numbers than a H22A.


You had better research this build extensively, and know what you are getting yourself into.

Very true.

It being less than a H22 swap, to me is a myth. Once you get through the intricate items needed for the Frank you will have spent more than any pure H swap.

Labor wise, it's much more intensive than any swap. It's not for the faint of heart, but it is purely just a build like any other B or K series fanatic would do.

For cost, it's potentially less expensive, and potentially more expensive. Most of us can't get an H22 swap for $1550, unless we do all the labor ourselves. Even then you'd be lucky to get a engine in good condition with an LSD trans and ECU for that price. You're the exception Mike. A swap might start around $1800 for the motor, but then you add on labor, and various other upgrades (header, motor mounts, etc) and a mild H22 swap could cost you up to $3000 easily. The guys who've accomplished G23 VTEC builds with all sorts of forged goodies and even ITB's stay way under $3000 and produce much better results than even built H22A's. As I stated earlier, my own build with forged internals shouldn't cost any more than $2000 when I'm finished.

To each his own, but stroke will always prevail!

-Jason
 
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