AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Err... I do need to put something together huh?
Badger's right, there is a whole mess of possible parts to use, but I'll try and think of everything I used from start to finish...
H23 Intake Manifold onto F23 Head
- Thread starter AFAccord
- Start date
Err... I do need to put something together huh?
Badger's right, there is a whole mess of possible parts to use, but I'll try and think of everything I used from start to finish...
Deshon2688
Well-Known Member
Wow, this is coming along great. I'm tempted to pick up that h23 IM and TB i saw on craigslist for 80 bucks...
Regarding that waterpie thing... I remember reading on honda-tech that someone used the pipe from an F22A1 when they were doing a G23 build and it fit pretty well. Not sure how it would work since you're still using the F23 head, but just something to think about.
Regarding that waterpie thing... I remember reading on honda-tech that someone used the pipe from an F22A1 when they were doing a G23 build and it fit pretty well. Not sure how it would work since you're still using the F23 head, but just something to think about.
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
I guess I'll start with a list of parts needed, and why I used the ones I did. First, I need to send out a special thanks to Badger for the many times he provided insight into this project. Now, let's begin...
Fuel Rail:
My primary concerns with the fuel rail were being able to mount it easily to the manifold, and keeping the fuel input on the driver's side so that I do NOT have to modify or extend the stock fuel line. The H23 fuel rail's input is on the pass side, so that was out. The stock F23 fuel rail has a nice 'lip' on one side that would allow you to drill your own mounting holes, but the rail has to be flipped over, which again puts the input on the wrong side.
I was able to locate a JDM H22A fuel rail for $15, which has the perfect mounting locations, and has the fuel input on the driver's side where I want it.
Fitting the fuel line to the H22A rail:
I tried to retain the stock fuel pressure dampener that screws on to the banjo bolt at the fuel input, but it was a different thread pitch than the H22A fuel rail. I ended up using the original cap that came on the H22A fuel rail.
As you can see, I had to improvise to get a good seal on the banjo fitting here. The stock dampener allows fuel to travel upwards into the dampener, then down into the hollow bolt, but the cap that comes on the H22A rail does not allow fuel to flow through it. Instead, the H22A's input bolt has a hole drilled straight through the bolt (can't see this in my photo). The stock banjo fitting however has a larger bore on the top to allow fuel to travel up to the dampener. So, in order to seal the banjo fitting, I used a brass crush washer designed for brake line hoses to top off the wider end of the fitting, and two of the standard crush washers to fill in the rest of the gap since the cap doesn't screw down far enough with just two washers.
The next thing I had to work with was the bracket that was tacked to the stock banjo fitting. I simply dremel'd out the tack to remove the bracket.
Finally, I mocked up the fuel line to the rail, routing the line through the H22A rail's stock location seen in the pic below.
Unfortunately, the line normally makes a 180 degree turn down to the fuel rail, but with the way the H22A's rail is setup, the fuel line had to turn 180 degrees back, then another 180 degrees forward, which pretty much crimped the line into a "Z" shape, so I had to think of something else. I ended up using the dremel to grind out a slot in the fuel rail to mount the line from the side so the line didn't crimp. I don't have a photo of the rail where I grinded, but this photo shows how I routed the fuel line.
Fuel Rail:
My primary concerns with the fuel rail were being able to mount it easily to the manifold, and keeping the fuel input on the driver's side so that I do NOT have to modify or extend the stock fuel line. The H23 fuel rail's input is on the pass side, so that was out. The stock F23 fuel rail has a nice 'lip' on one side that would allow you to drill your own mounting holes, but the rail has to be flipped over, which again puts the input on the wrong side.
I was able to locate a JDM H22A fuel rail for $15, which has the perfect mounting locations, and has the fuel input on the driver's side where I want it.
Fitting the fuel line to the H22A rail:
I tried to retain the stock fuel pressure dampener that screws on to the banjo bolt at the fuel input, but it was a different thread pitch than the H22A fuel rail. I ended up using the original cap that came on the H22A fuel rail.
As you can see, I had to improvise to get a good seal on the banjo fitting here. The stock dampener allows fuel to travel upwards into the dampener, then down into the hollow bolt, but the cap that comes on the H22A rail does not allow fuel to flow through it. Instead, the H22A's input bolt has a hole drilled straight through the bolt (can't see this in my photo). The stock banjo fitting however has a larger bore on the top to allow fuel to travel up to the dampener. So, in order to seal the banjo fitting, I used a brass crush washer designed for brake line hoses to top off the wider end of the fitting, and two of the standard crush washers to fill in the rest of the gap since the cap doesn't screw down far enough with just two washers.
The next thing I had to work with was the bracket that was tacked to the stock banjo fitting. I simply dremel'd out the tack to remove the bracket.
Finally, I mocked up the fuel line to the rail, routing the line through the H22A rail's stock location seen in the pic below.
Unfortunately, the line normally makes a 180 degree turn down to the fuel rail, but with the way the H22A's rail is setup, the fuel line had to turn 180 degrees back, then another 180 degrees forward, which pretty much crimped the line into a "Z" shape, so I had to think of something else. I ended up using the dremel to grind out a slot in the fuel rail to mount the line from the side so the line didn't crimp. I don't have a photo of the rail where I grinded, but this photo shows how I routed the fuel line.
Deshon2688
Well-Known Member
So, how much to make me one of these adapter plates? 
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Too much! I dunno if I'd be interested in making another one of these because the time involved in doing it by hand was way more than I expected. I already have the materials to make another two of them, so I suppose if someone were to walk up and offer $120 cash, I'd probably do it all over again.
Deshon2688
Well-Known Member
u kno, that doesn't even sound too bad. better than having a bunch of people in orlando tell me "that's impossible." That $120 include shipping? lol
I actually might take you up on that. I'm goin to pick one of these IMs up tomorrow that I planned to have around for my "supposed" G23 build, and I'd like to try to follow this somewhat
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Include $5 for shipping, and I'd have to have ~2 weeks to make it.
Deshon2688
Well-Known Member
cool. no rush though, i don't have any money right now anyway 
I'll be gettin a raise soon so once that kicks in lol
But I'll definitely be getting back to you on that, I don't see any problems helping fund your work
I'll be gettin a raise soon so once that kicks in lol
But I'll definitely be getting back to you on that, I don't see any problems helping fund your work
Deshon2688
Well-Known Member
I don't remember mentioning anything about shops here... But for the sake of not thread jacking, PM me lolJason, how's this coming along by the way? You get this setup tuned yet?
