Halabeaster54's CL Type S 6Spd/J35 Build

[akoutmos]

Speaking on that what tuning solution do you recommend between aem fic or Greddy enanage blue/ultimate. I'd love to lower my vtec points to 3500 from 5200 on the type s ecu. Since I shift at around 2500 I wouldn't hit vtec unless I tried anyway. But fic has its advantages apparently too. Ems is out of the question for me, I don't have that much to drop on a cars computer as I have college payments haha.

I posted in your other thread regarding AEM's FIC (here). In regards to changing around your VTEC activation point i would do a little bit on research as to when it truly is optimal to engage the aggressive profile part of the cam. Engage it too early and you are going to loose power because the intake of air won't have a high enough velocity (kinda like putting a huge throttle body on a small motor). The motor was never designed to breath like that at those RPMS. The beauty of VTEC is being able to have a dynamic cam profile so that you can run a different profile for low RPMs and a different profile for high RPMs.

If you are looking at when to adjust VTEC to look for dyno proven results as to when it is most beneficial to engage the more aggressive profile. Getting quantified results these days is hard seeing as there is a lot of bad information on the internet and the placebo effect of mods is through the roof. I would look into it a litte more before dropping $400 bucks on a piggy back that you don't necessarily need. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Halabeaster54]

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[WHEEELMAN]

...I do not have personal experience tuning a J-series motor so i can't comment on whether they run rich or not (you would need a wideband on one to gauge exactly how rich it is running stock)

Based on your own statement, why are you giving him advice about tuning a J-series engine and telling him not to get a piggyback?

But if you did want to lean it out slightly a nice flowing intake and filter would do the job due to the higher availability of air.

Wrong. The J-series ECU is "smart". The OEM ECU will recognize the extra amount of air and will compensate by adding fuel to the mixture. The only way to lean out the J-series is with a piggyback or stand alone. This applies to both the Honda and Acura ECU's for the J30A1, J32A2 and J35A3/A4.

 

[Russianred]

^ Well these are probably where the fine differences between the F and J series motors come in, that makes sense that the ECU could be smarter than the F23 ECU and learn, and thus constantly need to be piggybacked. Actually same goes for the F23 essentially, that's why the only options on the F23 ECUs are similar - piggyback, or get an EMS. EMS is the way to go honestly to do it once and do it right...

 

[akoutmos]

Based on your own statement, why are you giving him advice about tuning a J-series engine and telling him not to get a piggyback?

You took what i said out of context. Re-read all of my posts from the corresponding thread. I'll put it in another way so you can understand. What i was saying to him was that not me, you, or anybody else on the internet can say how his car is running. None of us have any quantifiable data to back the claims. A better investment would be to go to a shop with a dyno and get some data on the motor. Dynomometers have a slew of data logging inputs available to them including pressure and AFR. He needs to get AFR data which will say whether the motor is running lean/rich in what portions of the fuel map. 50 dollars at a dyno getting information is way better than 400 dollars of equipment that will do nothing for you.

Wrong. The J-series ECU is "smart". The OEM ECU will recognize the extra amount of air and will compensate by adding fuel to the mixture. The only way to lean out the J-series is with a piggyback or stand alone. This applies to both the Honda and Acura ECU's for the J30A1, J32A2 and J35A3/A4.

The OEM ecu will not be able to "recognize the extra amount of air" for one simple reason. The air metering system is MAP based not MAF based. It reacts based on pressure, not volume. Think about 10psi on a GT35R vs 10psi on my GT25. Not the same volume of air even though pressure is constant. You can look at the flow maps off of Garrett or Borg Warners site if you don't believe me.

And ECUs are not "smart" by any means of the imagination. What you can consider smart, is simple feedback loop mechanisms based on inputs. These feedback loops and correction can be anything from O2 sensor input, to TPS to AIT. They are simple modifiers for the base tables in the ECU. Seeing as primary O2 sensor on the J-series motor is a narrowband (0-1.0 volts), it is practically useless for correction.


Not many people understand the intricacies of tuning and what it actually entails. The word "tuning" is thrown around so lightly these days it ticks me off. My 2 cents for Halabeaster54 and his build is that if he is not changing the dynamics of the motor (induction method or internals) a piggyback is not what he needs. Throwing money at your car will not make it go faster. And Honda spent millions in R&D programming that ECU for reliability and drivability. Finding a tuner that will do the same will cost money.

 

[Halabeaster54]

My car runs so rich that I cough when I go behind it. I can defiantly use a tune.


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[Halabeaster54]

ok I really want to upgrade my throttle body. Has anyone here used a D/B 70+mm throttle body? Ive looked it up on v6p and i couldnt find a straight answer if this will work.

 

[Blazin accord]

You can use a b series throttle body from blox. Am gonna be running the blox 72mm on my J35 accord here soon. http://www.j32a.com/showthread.php?t=557&highlight=blox+72mm

 

[Halabeaster54]

I was thinking either 74 or 76


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[SykVSyx]

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Which rad did you go with?