Jarrett
Well-Known Member
Why does the dash need to be from a manual transmission car?
J32 6 speed MT swap
- Thread starter crazyspade101
- Start date
crazyspade101
Active Member
For the E-Brake on the center console. I guess the dash wouldn't have to be, I found an automatic one, it was in a front end collision, passenger seat was really worn, and the airbags went off. Not sure if I want to buy it, I'd rather wait and find one with the center piece though.
Back to the theme of the thread, got the clutch pedal out, dropped the entire subframe(going to use both pieces), dropped the exhaust(using the greddy if the one can isn't too messed up looking on my car. Ready to roll the cl out and roll the accord in for re-assembly =D. I apologize for the lack of pictures on this post, was extremely frustrated getting the brake pedal out, took way too long.
Yes my car has the template on it, anyone know what size I should use to drill it out? I have a 1.5" holesaw that looks like it's going to do the job. Also was looking at the wiring near the clutch, I noticed a few connectors taped up to the harness, hoping they are for the clutch. Yeah that's about it for this post.
Drilling the firewall tomorrow, switching out the vehicles and putting the subframe and suspensions back together.
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Jarrett
Well-Known Member
You already have the manual-specific parts. The console comes apart and you can pout the 6-speed cupholder tray onto and TL/CL console.
Brad2274
Well-Known Member
^yup
you can just get the dash pad and panels from a donor cl/tl in black, that's what i did, unless you're swapping more than just dash
you can just get the dash pad and panels from a donor cl/tl in black, that's what i did, unless you're swapping more than just dash
crazyspade101
Active Member
Too tired last night to post anything.
For the spacers for hood clearance, is it just the front subframe that gets dropped?
So now I'm to the wiring part, I have both the pinout diagrams for the ecu to start cutting in and splicing. Some of the pins I don't see where it would go for the CL ecu. Also, What needs done with the two connectors on the drivers side of the engine bay? I have the pinouts but still confused on those, the accord has way more wires in the connector than the CL, and the IMRC is on there, how do I get that to work? And the clutch pedal wiring?
Forgot to take a picture of the clutch pedal in >.<
And a slight issue? When trying to get the car down off the jack stands, after lowering it an inch or two with the engine lift I noticed the passenger side fender had a crease in it
I pushed it back out not thinking anything of it. I thought it may have been from someone trying to stand up and pushing on it but after jacking it down a little more it was back. The frame inside the fender is not damaged or creased in anyway.
shifter in
Engine bolted to the subframe
Engine slid under the car
picture from the bottom of the car, its jacked up pretty high
Couldn't reach the engine with the hoist, had to use a strap and improvise
And the engine in
Didn't brake any of the AC lines
For the spacers for hood clearance, is it just the front subframe that gets dropped?
So now I'm to the wiring part, I have both the pinout diagrams for the ecu to start cutting in and splicing. Some of the pins I don't see where it would go for the CL ecu. Also, What needs done with the two connectors on the drivers side of the engine bay? I have the pinouts but still confused on those, the accord has way more wires in the connector than the CL, and the IMRC is on there, how do I get that to work? And the clutch pedal wiring?
Forgot to take a picture of the clutch pedal in >.<
And a slight issue? When trying to get the car down off the jack stands, after lowering it an inch or two with the engine lift I noticed the passenger side fender had a crease in it
I pushed it back out not thinking anything of it. I thought it may have been from someone trying to stand up and pushing on it but after jacking it down a little more it was back. The frame inside the fender is not damaged or creased in anyway.shifter in
Engine bolted to the subframe
Engine slid under the car
picture from the bottom of the car, its jacked up pretty high
Couldn't reach the engine with the hoist, had to use a strap and improvise
And the engine in
If you don't bleed the AC lines for the whole process, then I'll give you even more props
Didn't brake any of the AC lines
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Brad2274
Well-Known Member
im pretty sure i still have a few months left on my alldata subscription, i have the diagrams/pinouts/everything for 1999 accord coupe v6 and also for 2003 TL/S (from when i did my dash swap) let me know
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
Too tired last night to post anything.
For the spacers for hood clearance, is it just the front subframe that gets dropped?
So now I'm to the wiring part, I have both the pinout diagrams for the ecu to start cutting in and splicing. Some of the pins I don't see where it would go for the CL ecu. Also, What needs done with the two connectors on the drivers side of the engine bay? I have the pinouts but still confused on those, the accord has way more wires in the connector than the CL, and the IMRC is on there, how do I get that to work? And the clutch pedal wiring?
Forgot to take a picture of the clutch pedal in >.<
And a slight issue? When trying to get the car down off the jack stands, after lowering it an inch or two with the engine lift I noticed the passenger side fender had a crease in it
shifter in
Engine bolted to the subframe
Engine slid under the car
picture from the bottom of the car, its jacked up pretty high
Couldn't reach the engine with the hoist, had to use a strap and improvise
And the engine in
Didn't brake any of the AC lines
That is epic! So happy for you right now
crazyspade101
Active Member
So from my ecm/pcm print outs, I come up with this for rewiring. I still have a bunch of wires on both sides of the harness, which i have no clue where they should go.
Please assist me so that this information can be available to others doing this swap, especially for those who cannot access the data sheets for either of these cars.
I also still need to do the two connectors in the engine bay drivers side, I will add those as new sheets on drive later today.
Link to google drive spreadsheet.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LMRxpDL2JntTWd3b3_LJtA9oPFKxZctqkOjDeUMCBk8/edit?usp=sharing
Please assist me so that this information can be available to others doing this swap, especially for those who cannot access the data sheets for either of these cars.
I also still need to do the two connectors in the engine bay drivers side, I will add those as new sheets on drive later today.
Link to google drive spreadsheet.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LMRxpDL2JntTWd3b3_LJtA9oPFKxZctqkOjDeUMCBk8/edit?usp=sharing
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crazyspade101
Active Member
Progress update:
Still putting everything back in the engine bay. Got the battery, intake, fuse box all back in. Just need to put the fluids in and do the wiring.
I'm not going to get to complete this by my target of a week and a half, I won't be able to work on it tonight. Hopefully I will have it done by sunday to make 2 weeks.
Still putting everything back in the engine bay. Got the battery, intake, fuse box all back in. Just need to put the fluids in and do the wiring.
I'm not going to get to complete this by my target of a week and a half, I won't be able to work on it tonight. Hopefully I will have it done by sunday to make 2 weeks.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Do you have anyone helping you?
