Limp Mode!?! But why?

Halabeaster54

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i put a j35a4 into my accord with a cl 6 speed and a j32a2 auto ecu and harness. My friend installed the v4 swap magic and the car is still in "limp mode" Paul said the type s ecu/ harness would work fine np with my engine and tranny and everything is wired up according to the instructions. I need this thing outa limp today if possible because I'm running it at englishtown tomorrow.

He triple checked each connection and every thing is hooked up right on the ecu side but its throwing a bunch of CEL's
here are the codes.
P1607 - DTC
P0505 - idle control
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 circuit
P0720 - output speed sensor circuit
P1656 - DTC

any ides guys?


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fastflyinaccord

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Even if you get it running fine, maybe it wouldn't be the best idea to push it to the limit after having it fully functioning for less than 24 hours. Its a long way home if something happens...
 

cfox28

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aww i'm sorry buddy you'll get it up!
possible problems:
too much alcohol
she's not that good looking
you have ED
 

KO iNfAmOuS

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Trololololol didn't see that one.... The reason for limp mode, ED. Crush up some cialis and feed it through your intake.
 

WHEEELMAN

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P1607 - Immobilizer. We know the reson for this one. RPM systems makes a box that will remove the CEL. It sells for $60.


P1656 - TCS. Our Accord TCS system is run from the Multiplexor. The Acura ECU has an "on-board" TCS control unit.

They are 2 different systems so:
1. It doesn't work anymore.
2. Throws a CEL in the Acura ECU because it doesn't see the normal TCS system.



P0505 - idle control
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 circuit
P0720 - output speed sensor circuit

I got nothing here. Guessing bad sensor OR wrong sensor used? Auto vs Manual type sensor may make a difference? different pinning of the sensor connectors during the wiring process?

1 or all of those 3 are what have you in limp mode.

idle control may be from the special intake manifold you are using. again, I got nothing here.
 

jdmcg3

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Even if you get it running fine, maybe it wouldn't be the best idea to push it to the limit after having it fully functioning for less than 24 hours. Its a long way home if something happens...

this.

so youre bout to go race your the motor that hasnt even been broken in yet and hasnt been tuned. doesnt sound smart to me.
 

RedRyder

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Even if you get it running fine, maybe it wouldn't be the best idea to push it to the limit after having it fully functioning for less than 24 hours. Its a long way home if something happens...

this.

so youre bout to go race your the motor that hasnt even been broken in yet and hasnt been tuned. doesnt sound smart to me.

Not to mention the clutch needs proper break in time.
 
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