N/A to FI: AFAccord's 10:1 Comp Turbo F23 Build Thread/Restoration

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission Mods' started by AFAccord, Nov 14, 2011.

  1. AFAccord

    AFAccord Well-Known Member

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    Hello all. I've been on hiatus from working on cars for a while now, but I'm itching to tinker a bit, and I've decided to try my luck with forced induction.
    The goal:

    -Rebuild new bottom end for FI.
    -Keep it simple, keep it reliable. Driveablity is key.
    -Try not to cut corners, while keeping it budget minded.
    -Low/High boost setup, 230-240 low boost, 300-310 high boost (Update 01/09/12 - Since I've purchased forged rods, I would like to shoot for 370-380whp @ high boost but keep the low boost around 250whp. I might like to hit 400whp on the dyno if the motor feels good enough)
    -Possibly run E85 (Update 01/09/12 - Ruled this out due to lack of availability outside of SC)

    The clay:

    -2000 Accord Coupe
    -OBD1 conversion tuned with eCtune
    -A couple F23 long blocks with a plethora of Prelude/GSR/H22 parts

    Tentative plan:

    -Off the shelf pistons @ 86.5mm (forged internals are a f***in' rip-off for this engine) (Update 01/09/12 - Went with Wiseco K568M865 forged pistons for K20)
    -ACL main/rod bearings and thrust washers, all new OEM oil pump, water pump, belts, etc. (Update 01/09/12 - Strongly considering against using the ACL bearings due to better sizing availability from OEM bearings)
    -ARP head/main bolts from H23 (Update 01/09/12 - Strongly considering against using ARP main bolts due to necessity of align honing and again, likely won't have correct clearances with the ACL bearings)
    -Use the crank and rods of the best condition from the blocks I already have. (Update 01/09/12 - Using previous stock block and crank that I ran in the car for 40k+ miles. Pulled this block due to worn rings burning oil, but no other issues)
    -Use stock F23 head, IM/TB to retain reliability and cruise. (Update 01/09/12 - Likely going to send stock TB to Maxbore and have local shop port match plenum)
    -T3/T04 60 trim turbo

    Parts List: continuously updated

    -Cast Log Turbo Manifold Purchased
    -ACL Race Main Bearings Purchased
    -ACL Race Rod Bearings Purchased
    -ACL Thrust Washers Purchased
    -Tial 38mm WG Purchased
    -Walbro 255lph HP Fuel Pump Purchased
    -ARP H23 Head Studs Owned
    -ARP H23 Main Studs Purchased
    -Bisimoto TI valve springs/retainers owned
    -Forged pistons Purchased
    -Billet connecting rods Purchased
    -AEM UEGO Wideband Purchased
    -2 Gauge Pillar Pod Purchased
    -OEM IM Gasket Purchased
    OEM Gaskets for IM/TB/Head Purchased
    -ID1000cc injectors Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -Front mount charge-air cooler Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -OEM Oil pump
    -Innovate Motorsports Water Temp Gauge
    -Oil feed line Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -Oil return line Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -Oil pan return fitting Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -MFactory H22 LSD Purchased
    -Electronic Boost control solenoid Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -Vacuum Manifold Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -Kaisenspeed Balance Shaft Delete Kit Purchased
    -Mini-Ram Turbo Manifold Built my own ram horn manifold
    -Blow-off valve Purchased from GO-Autoworks
    -OEM Timing belt Purchased from Honda
    -OEM Headgasket Purchased from Honda
    -Bisimoto 2.4 cam Scratched, running stock cam instead
    -IC piping Purchased from CS Racing (ebay)
    -Down pipe Made my own
    -Precision SC50 turbo (Update 01/09/12 - See notes above)
    -ACT HA3-XTG6 Clutch kit Purchased ACT HA3-XTSD from NLM
    -ACT Streetlite Flywheel Purchased from NLM




    This is just a start to get things off the ground. *I need to work on a parts list for the turbo components and a list of labor/services that would be prudent to putting together a well-assembled block. *More to come. *Critique and comments are appreciated...
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2013
    Chorilored likes this.
  2. AFAccord

    AFAccord Well-Known Member

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    Timeline:

    7 Nov 2011
    -Bare block, crank, oil pan dropped off at local race shop for cleaning, boring to 86.5mm, hone, flat decking, straightening, balancing, general inspections.

    14 Nov 2011
    -Pulled radiator, PS pump, and cam.
    -M2S4 Trans is tentatively sold, still need to pull it.

    17 Nov 2011
    -Pulled the longblock and trans

    20 Nov 2011
    -Sold the trans
    -cleaned up the garage*
    -put wheels back on car so I can roll it around.

    25 Nov 2011
    -Purchased forged pistons
    -Purchased billet rods

    Dec 2011
    -H23 Plenum and S2 TB is sold

    8 Jan 2012
    -Pressure washed and degreased engine bay

    9 Jan 2012
    -Spoke with KS and JD about build
    -Decided to use OEM bearings and OEM main bolts
    -ARP main studs and ACL bearings up for sale
    -Decided to use stock F23 IM, trumpeting runner ports in the plenum, port match to TB

    26 Feb 2012
    -Disassembled Head
    -Dropped KS BS Delete kit at shop for install
    -Cleaned Garage


    4 March 2012
    Purchased:

    -OEM Oil Pump Assembly
    -OEM Main Bolts
    -OEM Crank Dampener Pulley
    -OEM Valve seals all around
    -OEM Oil Seal for the cover on the trans side
    -OEM Crank Pulley Bolt

    7 April 2012
    -Smoothed edges on piston crowns and resurfaced the faces
    -Identified improper ring gap for first and second rings on all four pistons

    9 April 2012
    -Machine shop ordered new rings and agreed to regrind them.

    15 April 2012
    -Checked main bearing clearances with plastigage
    -Considerig larger P2W clearances

    26 August 2012
    -MFactory LSD Arrived
    -Innovate Water Temp Gauge Arrived
    -Tore down transmission, cleaned and painted housings
    -Tore down alternator, cleaned and painted housings
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012
  3. kn0x47

    kn0x47 Senior Member

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    gl. glad you're back, i had assumed you sold the car
     
  4. akoutmos

    akoutmos Well-Known Member

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    Lookin forward to the build. Take lots o' pics ;)
     
  5. Chorilored

    Chorilored Well-Known Member

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    Sounds good dude, this is what i will want to do with my turbo setup in the future.
    how much are you paying for the cp pistons?
     
  6. Russianred

    Russianred Snail Spools You!

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    Awesome, glad you posted a build thread! I am expecting this to be epic, as nothing less has ever come from you in the past! Good luck on everything and I'll definitely be around to support you and help you with anything you need on your path to turbo! Don't ever hesitate to get in touch about whatever you need.

    :thumbsup:
     
  7. Sketch o5

    Sketch o5 Señor Greengo

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    glad to see you back on the site man. good luck with your FI endeavor, hopefully you wont have too many headaches with it. definitely looking forward to updates as well, haha.​
     
  8. hotaccord243

    hotaccord243 Well-Known Member

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    Best of luck to you and will be paying close attention to this one! Excited for progress, and if I can help with anything just let me know!
     
  9. SykVSyx

    SykVSyx Well-Known Member

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    Obviously there are a few people with turbo builds on this site, that can hopefully help you out with this very promising project.

    Looking forward to seeing the progression.

    Were you upgrading your stock rad as well, or is that already done?
     
  10. AFAccord

    AFAccord Well-Known Member

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    Re: N/A to FI: AFAccord's Modest Turbo Build (attempt)

    Nope, kept it around to beat on every now and then. I replaced every bushing, endlink and ball joint in the suspension a couple months ago and it was riding soo smoothly and quiet. I think that's what made me want to 'fix' everything else.

    I'm going to try to take plenty of photos once everything gets started. I have a waterproof camera that I think I'll keep in the garage so I can just wash it off if it gets dirty. :)


    Haven't settled on the CP pistons yet. As far as I know, they're only available from Raceeng.com for $597

    I'll definitely be shooting some texts your way if I get in a bind. ;)


    Thanks. I'll try to keep you guys up to speed on what I've accomplished as this gets put together.


    I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions for you!


    I pulled the radiator last night. It's had some gunk in it for a while now, so I don't think I'll be reusing it. I'd like to replace it with a half-size aluminum rad, but that mostly depends on how much that costs. I'm not really interested in the bling factor.

    I don't expect this build to be anything innovative or particularly special. I just want to do things right, document it thoroughly and clearly, and not have to redo any mistakes later on.

    With the old saying, you have cheap, fast, and reliable. Pick two. I'm picking fast and reliable, but with a few limitations. The block I'm assembling will have all new parts with the exception of crank, rods, sleeves, and maybe oil pan. Sensors, pumps, belts, and all small components will be new OEM Honda. I've already spent around $360 at Majestic Honda for new gaskets, bolts and seals, and expect that to grow to around $800.

    For the sake of reliability I am using forged pistons, but for my modest power goals and sheer cost, I'm not considering forged F23 rods at this point. I don't mind spending small chunks of money here and there to address the details, but I have a hard time justifying $1400 for just rods and pistons. For a while I had considered buying an F22a non-VTEC long block since the cost of the block plus forged rods and pistons would be less than the F23 rods and pistons. I would even buy a new OBD1 engine harness to make everything plug and play, but I'm pressing on with the F23 because I already have two mostly-complete F23 long blocks and close to $1000 in Bisimoto parts for the head. I haven't yet decided exactly which pistons I'm going to use. I've contemplated Wiseco K20 9:1 pistons, Wiseco K20 flat top pistons, K20a3 forged rods, stock F23 rods, and every combination of those. I'm close to just saying screw it and just get the CP pistons, even though I prefer Wiseco's oiling design, coated skirts and cheaper price. :(
     

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