N/A to FI: AFAccord's 10:1 Comp Turbo F23 Build Thread/Restoration

[AFAccord]

Hey, since you're here, can you give me a ball park figure what your shop would charge for a better turbo manifold? I went to see Anthony at AV Engineering in Charleston the other day, and he had quoted me 'starting around $1400' for something similar to Ray's top mount manifold that AV did a while back. That's about twice what I'm looking to spend. I don't need anything outrageous, but something better than a log style would be great.

 

[Russianred]

Hey bro, if you really want assurance of minimal vibration, I recommend looking into getting a performance harmonic balancer/dampener - such as Fluidampr, and there is another good brand as well which I can't remember right this second. They are upwards of $350 per, but I think it would be worth it. I'll be using one of those when I get to that point in my build.

 

[hancockd]

Damn Jason, don't know how I missed this thread but I'm really looking forward to seeing the results!!

 

[AFAccord]

Hey bro, if you really want assurance of minimal vibration, I recommend looking into getting a performance harmonic balancer/dampener - such as Fluidampr, and there is another good brand as well which I can't remember right this second. They are upwards of $350 per, but I think it would be worth it. I'll be using one of those when I get to that point in my build.

The dampeners are used to reduce harmonic resonances (the ones we don't feel) that can tear the engine to pieces. They don't cancel the (second order vibrations I believe) vibrations we feel in the car. Plus, they come without the pulley for PS, which I want to retain.

Damn Jason, don't know how I missed this thread but I'm really looking forward to seeing the results!!

I don't know either. lol It's a slow process, but there's lots of learning and trials along the way.

 

[AFAccord]

Semi-small update for today...

Pushed the car out of the garage today for the first time in weeks. Spent all day organizing my parts and clearing out the utility closet to make room for the engine hoist since I don't expect to need it for a while. Between cleaning, I took breaks to further disassemble the head I'm going to use of all springs, retainers, bolts, studs, and valve stem seals. Did the same for the F23 IM. Both my old head, and new head, as well as the IM will be heading to the shop soon to be cleaned, resurfaced, have my Bisimoto springs and retainers swapped to the new head, along with new valve seals, and maybe a little touch-up on the valve seats.

The block is pretty much finished at this point, thought it's still at the shop getting the Kaisenspeed BS delete kit pressed in and tapped. The shop has already checked the crank and block, bored to 86.5, honed to the correct piston-to-wall clearance, filed, gapped and installed the rings onto the pistons, mounted pistons to the rods, micro-polished and balanced the crank, trued and surfaced the block and oil pan. The machinist said the crank was in the best condition he'd ever seen. Told me I couldn't expect to buy a new one in such good condition, so that gives me confidence in this setup. Everything has been blueprinted and I just need to buy the right bearings to get the clearances I want, then assemble it here in the garage.


The mess I pulled out of the closet

New front bumper and OEM style lip to go on.

Head disassembled.

 

[AFAccord]

Got some more parts ordered tonight from the stealership.

-OEM Oil Pump Assembly
-OEM Main Bolts
-OEM Crank Dampener Pulley
-OEM Valve seals all around
-OEM Oil Seal for the cover on the trans side
-OEM Crank Pulley Bolt

Hopefully it'll all be in this week so I can finally get the block back from the machine shop. Next up should be main bearings and any more seals that I might have missed.

 

[AFAccord]

BIG UPDATE!! (Used Car Dealership Commercial Voice)

Received my new parts from Honda, picked up the block, and dropped off the heads to the shop. On to the photos!

Pretty much every seal, gasket and bolt from the throttle body to the oil pan. I LOVE seeing those little red and white tags...

Crank has been cleaned, checked for trueness, and balanced.

New F23 T-stat housing. It's surprising how many stock F23 parts I had to order to go back to a stock head and IM.

New F23 main bolts. These are reusable items, but I wanted to have fresh ones for this assembly since I don't know the mileage on the originals. Steered away from the ARP studs to avoid having to align-hone.

Pistons have been mounted to the rods, rings have been filed to achieve proper ring gap, and everything was weighed to ensure it balanced out. Everything came out as perfectly as can be expected.

New OEM oil pump with Kaisenspeed BS delete plugs and plate installed.

New OEM Crank Pulley. That rubber dampener looks soo fresh!

New Crank Pulley Bolt (was surprised to read that Honda recommends replacing this with a rebuild)

Freshly cleaned oil pan, scraped clean and checked for straightness on the sealing surface.

Clean crankshaft. The shop said it was in better condition than any of their OE cranks. All the journals measured perfectly round and showed no measurable wear at all.

Block was cleaned, every mating surface was machined and decked, bored to 86.5mm and honed for proper P2W clearance. I want to paint the block, but I'm still undecided whether to do a flat black, or plain aluminum.

Oil galley tapped and plugged with KS kit.

Looking down the mains.

 

[AFAccord]

Perhaps a mod could help me out, but I can't seem to post the second half of my update. I keep getting an Error 500 message...

 

[jdmcg3]

damn son. nice work.

 

[akoutmos]

Everything looks super sexy buddy. Can't wait to see this thing put down some numbers.

Could you explain why you didn't go ARP main studs. The main caps are guided into place by dowel pins. I didn't think you would have to do anything when switching to main studs. Sort of like using head studs. And what bore would you have to "align-hone"?