N/A to FI: AFAccord's 10:1 Comp Turbo F23 Build Thread/Restoration

[hotaccord243]

Thanks buddy. I'm hoping my numbers are well suited to my goals. There are plenty of B and D series builds to reference, but I haven't seen any F or H builds that actually check and re-check clearances to get them where they want. Everyone keeps saying that if the journals and bores are in spec, just go with a standard bearing, but I can get anywhere from .0007" to .0020" with just OEM bearings. I can't let myself throw this together and pay for it later.

I'll be leaving the country in December, so I NEED to get this done by then. Expect the pace to pick up from here on out.

It's good to see that your checking and re-checking it, better now while its apart then like you said, pay for it later. It's true, even if the bores and journals are within spec, there is still a WIDE range for the OEM bearings. Even though they say go with the correct colors and all per journal, but your doing it the right way. Measuring and remeasuring to make sure the right bearing is selected and no issues down the road.

It would be a PITA to replace down the road, plus if anything else goes while that does it's a disaster for sure. Keep up the good work! Nice to see the technicalities of a build posted up rather than just the before and after stuff!

 

[AFAccord]

ACL HX bearings are on the truck for delivery this morning. By my measurements, green OEM bearings should give me .0006" - .0008" clearance on the rods. With the HX bearings giving ~.001" more clearance than greens, I hope to see close to .0018" with the plastigage. It's not .0020", but I think I can sleep comfortably with that.

 

[iHazSnail]

I have no doubt in my mind this thing making awesome power with stock like reliability. Sir, you are better than awesome.

 

[AFAccord]

I'm neither delighted, nor disappointed...

Began disassembling the new oil pump for modification. New hex head screws for precise torquing. As you can see, the philips head screws were stripping just from removal.

The oil inlet that will be slightly radiused.

The outlet that will be worked.

And the pump outlet that will be filled and redrilled, shaped and radiused.

Going to practice on the old pump first. I've decided to do another modification before assembly that might hold me up a week or two, but should be very well worth it. Keeping that on the down low for now.

 

[bdeitemeyer]

Could you please provide me with more info regarding the "final deep cleaning" and which aluminum paint you used to spray the block? I'm looking into doing something similar (without the full teardown, so I won't be able to send my block to a hot tank or anything like that...just some degreasers & elbow grease), and I'd be interested in finding out what I'll be needing to do as far as prep goes & how much paint I'll need. Thanks in advance, looking forward to seeing more updates of this beautiful build.

 

[AFAccord]

Could you please provide me with more info regarding the "final deep cleaning" and which aluminum paint you used to spray the block? I'm looking into doing something similar (without the full teardown, so I won't be able to send my block to a hot tank or anything like that...just some degreasers & elbow grease), and I'd be interested in finding out what I'll be needing to do as far as prep goes & how much paint I'll need. Thanks in advance, looking forward to seeing more updates of this beautiful build.

I just used Klean-strip Aircraft Paint Stripper to remove the excess paint from the block, then pressure washed it off. That stuff will eat through almost anything, so it works as a degreaser too. However, I wouldn't use that on anything rubber. If you can't strip the block, I'd just get a foaming or gel degreaser and a small brass bristle brush.

I ensured it was completely dry and clean, taped off all the holes, trimmed the tape, then sprayed it with regular Duplicolor Engine Enamel that you find at any auto parts store. There are two different aluminum colors, but I can't remember which one I used. I'm pretty sure I only used one can to cover the block.


I disassembled my old oil pump to practice filling in the outlet galley. I began by back-filling the passage that runs to the plug, and filled it out slightly to smooth out the flow. A problem I've found is that the oil passage runs into an offset galley where it meets with the block. The oil enters the galley from the bottom, and flows up to the exit in the block at the top of the galley. Here are some photos for a rough example.

Our outlet to the block is different than most of the D-series guys who modify their pumps. Our outlet opens up to a galley that is shared with the block before it closes down to a small passage. I'm hesitant to use too much putty in there for fear that it might not hold up, so I'll likely try some different designs with the old pump to find what works best, then apply that to the new pump.

 

[AFAccord]

I ordered the rest of the main bearings and thrust washers this morning. Also sent off the bare pistons to Swain Tech in NY to have their TBC ceramic coating applied to the crowns. I'd like to get their PC-9 coating on the skirts too, but that adds .002" diameter to the pistons. Even with the 'break-in' coating removed, that only frees up a couple ten-thou of clearance, leaving me with less than .002" P2W clearance. I've read that with the ceramic crown coating, the piston stays significantly cooler, reducing expansion enough for them to run ~.0004" P2W in some cases, but I just don't trust my setup with so little room for error.

 

[AFAccord]

Quick update with new parts:

Ordered my turbo, FMIC, oil feed and drain lines, various flanges, mounting studs, and limited slip last night. Going to update my inventory spreadsheet today, and pick up a trans tomorrow.

I'm looking at purchasing my ID1000 injectors today also, coupled with an AEM fuel rail, but I want to be sure I can easily connect my fuel line to the AEM rail since there's technically no corresponding AEM part number for the F23, only F22, H22, H23. Can anyone give me a solid answer for this?

 

[hotaccord243]

Quick update with new parts:

Ordered my turbo, FMIC, oil feed and drain lines, various flanges, mounting studs, and limited slip last night. Going to update my inventory spreadsheet today, and pick up a trans tomorrow.

I'm looking at purchasing my ID1000 injectors today also, coupled with an AEM fuel rail, but I want to be sure I can easily connect my fuel line to the AEM rail since there's technically no corresponding AEM part number for the F23, only F22, H22, H23. Can anyone give me a solid answer for this?

AF - You'll have to do some fittings that will connect to your hard fuel line to switch it over to an -AN fitting. Do a braided line back to an AN fitting that will direct connect to the fuel rail. I have all the parts done on mine, but have the list of items at work. Tomorrow morning i'll give them to you.

 

[AFAccord]

Thanks Devin. I did find another part number (25-106) that lists Acura CL 2.2/2.3 and Accord 94-02 2.2/2.3 as its applications. I might still have to rig it up though, so any help is appreciated.