New Sound System: Sedan

shavedaccord

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I'm very surprised, all this planning and you haven't even mentioned the sub-woofer enclosure. That is going to be the single most important component to your system. You can put a $1,000 sub woofer in some off the shelf box and it'll sound like ****, matter of a fact a $20 sub woofer would probably out perform it. Stay away from sealed & bandpass. Look into a PNR ported enclosure. I just picked up an Obcon single 12" enclosure (just over 2 cu-ft) and it's nearly 5db louder than my off the self slot ported dual 12" enclosure was..with 2 12's. I know 5db may seem like a small number in the audio world that is a HUGE gain.

Think of it this way..say you have a size 12 shoe...would you feel comfortable slipping into a size 7?..no. So the enclosure is VERY important it can either make or break a system.
 

shavedaccord

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I have purchased:

These Hifonics Speakers

This Kinetik Battery

and the Alpine ida-X100 Headunit.

I figure I can run the speakers, even though they're 500 watts, strictly with my new uber-powerful battery, and hold off on the amplifier till I have more money.

I am looking at This Amplifier and These Subwoofers, but I want your guys' input.

1. Will that amplifier be enough to power my system?
2. Is that amplifier/subwoofer/speaker combo well-compatible?
3. The mono-block D amplifier is designed to power just a subwoofer, right? So would you have to buy a 4-channel (or whichever one) amplifier to power my speakers? That is, if my battery won't suffice in providing sufficient power to my speakers.
MB Quart is known for their component speakers, not their sub-woofer, therefore for $150 there is MUCH better alternatives to sub-woofers out there. Also don't be shy to look into just a single 10" or single 12" as I stated above they can easily out perform dual, triple or even quadruple sub setups, just depends on the enclosure.

If you have a 150 budget on sub-woofers look into Earthquakes, awesome subs.

The amp should be more than enough, just because the sub-woofers say "1,000 watts" doesn't mean they can handle it. You should be more than happy putting just 300-500 watts to them.

If you want you can purchase a 4-channel to power your front & rear stage or go with a 2 2-channels, one for the rear, one for the front.

Why do you say with your uber-powerful battery? Your going to be running those "500 watt" speakers with your head unit for the time being correct?
Well keep this in mind..Your head unit may say 50x4 watts..but it's not it's typically 20-25 watts RMS..so really you're not drawing anymore power off your batter than your stock head unit would. Some food for thought; Compare the magnet on them 500 watt speakers to a higher-end 500 watt sub-woofer then tell me them speakers are really 500 watt lol..Big difference.
 

confuseid

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MB Quart is known for their component speakers, not their sub-woofer, therefore for $150 there is MUCH better alternatives to sub-woofers out there. Also don't be shy to look into just a single 10" or single 12" as I stated above they can easily out perform dual, triple or even quadruple sub setups, just depends on the enclosure.

If you have a 150 budget on sub-woofers look into Earthquakes, awesome subs.

The amp should be more than enough, just because the sub-woofers say "1,000 watts" doesn't mean they can handle it. You should be more than happy putting just 300-500 watts to them.

If you want you can purchase a 4-channel to power your front & rear stage or go with a 2 2-channels, one for the rear, one for the front.

Why do you say with your uber-powerful battery? Your going to be running those "500 watt" speakers with your head unit for the time being correct?
Well keep this in mind..Your head unit may say 50x4 watts..but it's not it's typically 20-25 watts RMS..so really you're not drawing anymore power off your batter than your stock head unit would. Some food for thought; Compare the magnet on them 500 watt speakers to a higher-end 500 watt sub-woofer then tell me them speakers are really 500 watt lol..Big difference.

I haven't purchased any rear 6x9 speakers yet, I think I might hold off on that. I should be good with just front speakers for now, yes? Or will it make that big of a difference for me sitting in the front seat. (I don't care too much about my passengers in the back, hehe).

Oh and you're right about the battery thing. I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. I had just forgot to buy an amplifier for my speakers.

************UPDATE**************
I purchased this amplifier to power my speakers. Putting it in the trunk.

All I need now to complete my sound system is a subwoofer and amp (for the sub).
 
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donpisto

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I'm very surprised, all this planning and you haven't even mentioned the sub-woofer enclosure. That is going to be the single most important component to your system. You can put a $1,000 sub woofer in some off the shelf box and it'll sound like ****, matter of a fact a $20 sub woofer would probably out perform it. Stay away from sealed & bandpass. Look into a PNR ported enclosure. I just picked up an Obcon single 12" enclosure (just over 2 cu-ft) and it's nearly 5db louder than my off the self slot ported dual 12" enclosure was..with 2 12's. I know 5db may seem like a small number in the audio world that is a HUGE gain.

Think of it this way..say you have a size 12 shoe...would you feel comfortable slipping into a size 7?..no. So the enclosure is VERY important it can either make or break a system.

May I ask why sealed should not be considered? I agree, a bandpass is not something I would do since it has a steep roll off. A ported enclosure will indeed have more output than a sealed enclosure but there are also trade offs. With a sealed enclosure you dont have to worry about tuning frequency or even the frequency the sub plays. If you have a ported enclosure and don't have your SSF set on the amp, and if you play something below the ports tuning frequency, well, time to shop again for another woofer. Also, ported will require m ore space and will not have as much power handling.

With the sealed enclosure you will get much better lows, but that also depends on the subwoofer. Some subs also work better sealed, others work better ported. I used to be a big time ported fan but once I tried sealed again, and a proper enclosure for being sealed, I will never go back to ported. Sealed can still give you plenty of output but the sound will be much smoother and not as boomy as ported, so the music sounds more natural.

To the OP, have you decided what to get yet? BTW, you can fit 10's in the doors if you really wanted (seen it done in person) just takes some (well a lot) of modding. If you have a 1/2" baffle made of MDF that uses the same trace as the stock plastic baffle, you can fit a speaker with the mounting depth of 2.54" without a problem. You might be able to stretch that by a few hundredths, but not much more. As lashlee mentioned, the basket on the speaker may be too big. On my DLS Iridiums, it was just perfect (thought I had to make the baffle opening larger). For my Zapco CK's, the depth is close to 2.9" so the baffle has to be thicker. Even with the proper thickness the basket hits the door so I had to cut it a little with a jigsaw. Now they fit perfectly.

You might be okay with a 3/4" baffle, not quite too sure, but IMO it's best to stick with the 1/2" since the speaker won't be hitting the grill on the door panel and you won't have issues getting the door panel back on and to stay in place.

Lashlee, didn't know you were here too...nice to see another DIYMA memebr :D

Oh, as for the rear speakers, don't even worry about those. I have mine taken out. Sounds much better without them there because the music is in front of you, rather than behind or next you.
 

lashlee

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I'm sneaky!!! You know I couldn't find a post about a stereo in a sedan and not give my two cents!!!

I've been keeping up with your build, and can't wait for some time to follow your lead!!!
 

donpisto

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I've been gettin very lazy about it, but finally found a Quad 4 ohm 4" voice coil, so sub should get reconed soon. Once I stop being lazy I can finish the front stage. I'll be posting the entire build log here wants a get a move on the front.
 

confuseid

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This install is harder than I expected. The magnet on the speaker was huge, but after creating my own wooden 1/2" plywood baffle today I managed, with the help of a jigsaw, power drill, and electric sander, to make it actually get the speaker to fit.
*****************************************************


Do I use the original factory wires for the speaker? Or just leave those alone?
 
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donpisto

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I'd recommend putting the crossovers in the trunk, in case some moisture gets into the doors, that way it won't mess up the crossovers. I ran my speaker wire all the way to the trunk and on the driver side I had my RCA's (when I wasn't going active) and the power cable. On the passenger side of the vehicle I had my Ai-Net cable for my processor, speaker wire, and optical cable for the processor. There is plenty of room for a snug fit. Or if you really wanted, pull out all the interior and run it down the center of the vehicle.
 

confuseid

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DSCF0824.jpg

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Crossover going under the seats
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Running wires on the side of the car
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Running Wires to Trunk.
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I haven't screwed the AMP into the board I made yet.
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Alpine Ida-X100 HU.
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Do I need to buy another RCA cable? Someone told me I have to connect both the "F" slot and the "SW" slot to the amplifier.
paintedHU.jpg
 
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