OBD conversion - Chipped/Tuned P28

[AFAccord]

I know you never 'FEEL' it with these cars, but its easy to tell based on sound.

Get the car rolling just a few mph using 1st gear, then shift into second, and punch it. Soon after 2Krpm, you might hear it engage. It's easier to hear with a short ram. It's POSSIBLE to feel it, but it's literally a ~.07g increase in acceleration.

It engages so low because the power cross-over between the two cam profiles S-Spec mentioned is low. This gives it this smooth transition, and not the high rpm kick that most expect. You can set it to engage higher, but you're literally sacrificing power from ~2500rpm until it engages.

IMO, low end power (< 3500rpm) = drivability. Lack of this low end is like driving a 3100lb civic around town.

This of course, is the meat of the debate going on here.

I prefer to have my power available all the time, and when I want good gas mileage, I just keep my foot off the floor. I guess the military has given me my share of self-discipline. Others seem to require a more 'mechanical' method to achieve good mileage.

:shrugs:

 

[S-spec]

Get the car rolling just a few mph using 1st gear, then shift into second, and punch it. Soon after 2Krpm, you might hear it engage. It's easier to hear with a short ram. It's POSSIBLE to feel it, but it's literally a ~.07g increase in acceleration.

It engages so low because the power cross-over between the two cam profiles S-Spec mentioned is low. This gives it this smooth transition, and not the high rpm kick that most expect. You can set it to engage higher, but you're literally sacrificing power from ~2500rpm until it engages.

IMO, low end power (< 3500rpm) = drivability. Lack of this low end is like driving a 3100lb civic around town.

This of course, is the meat of the debate going on here.

I prefer to have my power available all the time, and when I want good gas mileage, I just keep my foot off the floor. I guess the military has given me my share of self-discipline. Others seem to require a more 'mechanical' method to achieve good mileage.

:shrugs:

Well even stock, as I found out from my little experiment, the ECU uses a VTEC window from 2500 to 4000 RPM. Under low load, or light throttle, it will engage VTEC at 4000, and under high load, or pedal to the metal, it will engage at 2500. With throttle in between very light and high load, it engages somewhere between 2500 and 4000, depending on actual throttle input.

IMO its best like that. You have power when you want it, and economy while cruising.

 

[AFAccord]

IMO its best like that. You have power when you want it, and economy while cruising.

Couldn't have said it any better.

 

[S-spec]

Couldn't have said it any better.

....?

 

[BlkCurrantKord]

What he means is...


Thats exactly what he was saying from the start.

 

[JDMaccord2K]

I decided to go back to obd2, take off the custom idle control valve bracket, and use my stock ecu... now i am teh fast3st again. :]

selling the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness though... $120 shipped, holla.

 

[AFAccord]

I decided to go back to obd2, take off the custom idle control valve bracket, and use my stock ecu... now i am teh fast3st again. :]

selling the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness though... $120 shipped, holla.

What brand? That's a bit more than they usually go for.

 

[JDMaccord2K]

What brand? That's a bit more than they usually go for.

I'ts at my friend's house, but i'll check when I go over...

I'm asking $120 because a dude at the shop i go to offered me $100 when he gets payed next friday. If anyone wants to buy it before then, I have to box it and ship it... so I ask $120 shipped

 

[AFAccord]

Ah, ok. You should be getting the better end of that one then. A conversion harness from reputable companies are going for $75 right now. Don't tell that to the guy at the shop.