Re: Sil2DrV6's '02 CG2 EX-L
Car's at the shop for the cat converter & the A/C compressor replacement atm. Fuel pump might be due to the mileage of the car, (generally 'till 150K mi) but was told they're still good. Will get more insights when it's completed..
Have been notified by the shop from time to time, and he said that the car is finally fixed! The issues were:
Cat Converter w/ 2 gaskets + fr & rr oxygen sensors -- The internal structure was damaged 'n melted, causing the embarrassing noise for a few days till I finally decided to have it replaced w/ the OEM factory non-remanufactured genuine piece, ordered by the shop. I recall myself driving and hit (went over) a metal object, which it believed / seemed to be one of those small sewer pothole tops about the size of a melon, sticking up and left on the ground by someone at dark in the night for a stupid reason, or the city's / DOT's mistake. It hit my cat, sub muffler, fuel tank, and y-pipe iirc att when it was inspected last year.. I hope there wouldn't be a lot of melted debris trapped inside my beloved 9GA mufflers, but there's no more P0420, and I can pass the vehicle emission smog test w/ np.
A/C Compressor, A/C drier, o-ring kit, and A/C cut-out relay -- Ended up getting a re-manufactured Honda OEM compressor by OEMacuraparts.com, by a mistake on my own, when I was supposed to get just the clutch set + belt (meaning, not the whole compressor assembly). But I actually kept it BINB unintentionally b/c I became so lazy to return it to the seller, until my A/C system coincidently died on me. Who knew I was gonna need it haha. But this OEMacura's new remanufactured compressor sucks!! Idk when this thing got manufactured tbh atm, but he told me it's super heavy when it operates. He said it would hurt my engine when it's turned on. He felt it was questionable when he opened up the packaging b/c it wasn't sealed with a bag w/ some silica packets or anything; Instead, it was bare naked with some space-filling papers. He said "Almost all automobile parts have some sort of a thing like 'product shelf life', and it all ages over the course of years when it's exposed in the air." "I always order parts that are 'fresh' (newly manufactured in the most recent year) as much as possible, so it's OEM quality at it's best." "Unless they're glasses." I knew remanufactured pieces aren't the best quality, even if they're brand new OEM's but... Damn.. I wish I had it returned to oemacura, when I thought I didn't need it.. b/c, obviously he found it out the after the installation. File a claim to the seller and return it? It needs to be reinstalled first tho.. Sigh... Oemacuraparts...
This prob is a ***** haha. I told him to just leave it installed for now, and I'll figure it out later. No wonder why we can always get parts cheap online. Be ware of buying car parts online, folks. Prices being so cheap online are mostly overstocked and aged items. Learned my lesson in a hard way here haha. Well, at least our cars can run w/o the use of the compressor turned on, so thanks to the old gen vehicle, that gives me more time to deal with this hassle. ..., Hopefully lol. Well, maybe I could permanently delete it for the car's better performance in weight reduction.
P0705, P0706, and P1676 by worn out AT range sensor -- Didn't know I had them at all. Thought the engine light was only my cat's P0420.. Well, my shift indicator in the gage cluster never flashed / blinked during the change between shifts, so I couldn't tell that I had those codes. I knew my AT has been acting a little slow when shifting from 3rd to 2nd, ever since I bought the car in '07, but oh well.. I think he said it was the external damage (cheap cause) on the "AT range switch". But it could be the internal tranny problem (expensive cause obviously lol). But we'll see when I talk to him when I pick up my car today, and I'll edit these posts, when I get more insights. P1676 can be reset it manually, if I'm not mistaken, so atm, I'm guessing he simply performed that.
Worn out fuel injection relay -- The car had a minor staring issue from time to time, which it sparks but fails to ignite the fuel not being pumped out, since November last year or so. Happens especially when I filled up the tank. This was one of the main reasons for the car to be dropped off to the shop this time, along with my nasty 'n noisy cat converter. He said it could be due to the age of my fuel pump (due in 150K miles). He he test-started the engine about 15 times, and caught the starting struggle, which he figured it out that it was that particular old module being the main cause of the problem.
Fuel Pump -- Originally thought to be the reason of struggle at a startup, and it is actually due for an replacement, but he decided not to touch on that, since the engine starts fine for now, after replacing the relay module. He told me to give him a call, when the struggle occurs b/c of the life span of the parts is due for a replacement.
SEV Mechanical Box -- Some JDM aftermarket stuff that supposedly "reduces a car's physical stress" that affects its performance. The stress affects the performance of a car's potential power, caused by the friction of metal components (i.e.compressors, pistons, gearbox etc). The stress can also be coming from the physical gravitation of force from a car's ride (suspension, frames, wheels etc.) Not only it reduces those type of stress, but it also rejuvenates more flow of liquid flow for a better efficiency in burning & cooling (i.e. radiator, fuel, br/ps/at fulid, etc.) Some of the stuff make passengers relieved from stress coming from a car's ride feelings. Told him to simply stick them onto my AT assembly. He goes, "Interesting idea. It would work great for the use with water, like if the shower head was made with their material, or scissors,". Told him they make scissors haha. He said "Yeah, it might work on your AT, I mean why the hell not." "$300 bucks for two pieces of metals on your AT better work somehow, and you'll feel positive when it's there." Yeah, it's like carrying or wearing a good luck charm, too haha. We'll see how I'll feel on my AT, when I get my car back lol. (For more info on this particular JDM stuff, plz search "SEV" within this thread, or click the link on my OP where I list up my mods.) ...,
Feel so much torque around 2500 rpm, when I usually want to change my shift in a city-driving. High RPM also smoothly accelerates the car with the amazing vtec. Feels like the car runs like when it 1st came out of a factory 14 yrs ago. No more limp mode, no more engine codes, and no more annoying lights in my gage cluster. 
I have been wanting to restore the car's health to the optimal level this year, and I feel like the car has finally came to the point where I've been wanted it to be.
