I opened the mirror switch and there is definitively a bulb inside covered by a blue cap. The yellow bulb + the blue cap give the greenish color. If you want another color just change the cap color.
RR's '99 coupe EX-L
- Thread starter RedRyder
- Start date
I opened the mirror switch and there is definitively a bulb inside covered by a blue cap. The yellow bulb + the blue cap give the greenish color. If you want another color just change the cap color.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
^nice thanks for that, maybe my bulb is just burned out. Might do a white LED in there to match the other white buttons like fog, sunroof, etc.
The bulb is soldered but easy to access, you could remove it and solder a new bulb. I'll post a picture of the bulb when i come home tonight so you can see how it look like.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
^ah I should have known it was soldered. Gonna have to talk to my wiring consultant, FNCONE. haha
Pics below so you can have a better idea.
What's strange is that the master switch i got doesn't have blue caps on both led switches. Don't know if the led is greenish by itself which i doubt but i don't remember have seen white windows switches illumination on Acura's.. For now i can't install it to verify what color those switches are because i'm waiting other parts for my door panel.
What's strange is that the master switch i got doesn't have blue caps on both led switches. Don't know if the led is greenish by itself which i doubt but i don't remember have seen white windows switches illumination on Acura's.. For now i can't install it to verify what color those switches are because i'm waiting other parts for my door panel.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
This car being 20yrs old and having seen daily duty for 10+ years (including Ohio winters), and now being parked outside, pretty much means that every job I go to attempt with it now means pain lol. Both rear wheel bearing hub assemblies need replaced, did the passenger over the weekend. When I got the dust cap off, the spindle nut looked brand new. I got this car at 74k miles and it doesn't seem like they would have been done within that mileage, and this is my first time ever doing them at 213k miles. Soo...unless that dust cap provides THAT good of a seal...something's up.
20190331_121159 by C B, on Flickr
As feared, and expected, the inner race bearing got stuck on the spindle after I pulled the hub assembly. Before running out to rent a bearing separator I tried walking it off with a chisel and hammer which worked. But had to remove the dust shield first, I filed those 3 10mm bolts to better define the edges and kept hitting them with PB blaster. Kept waiting for them to strip but amazingly they didn't. Long and arduous process but worked. Like I do every time I take anything off the car and put it back, I clean it and prep it to be easier to remove the next time.
20190331_174513 by C B, on Flickr
Nice to have new studs. I thought the new hub would spin more freely, but it doesn't really, sorta feels the same as the old one only this one is quiet. Not sure why this hub had a few areas of corrosion on it, the other one didn't. Maybe it wasn't oiled quite enough before it was packaged.
20190331_183848 by C B, on Flickr
Driver side next, I know it is worse so we'll see how that goes. Can't wait.
Using Timken #512179 off RockAuto, they looked identical to the ones that came off, down to the number/letter designations. I had bought replacement spindle nuts too but they were not as beefy as the ones on the car so I reused them, they seemed to be in good enough shape to do so.
20190331_121159 by C B, on FlickrAs feared, and expected, the inner race bearing got stuck on the spindle after I pulled the hub assembly. Before running out to rent a bearing separator I tried walking it off with a chisel and hammer which worked. But had to remove the dust shield first, I filed those 3 10mm bolts to better define the edges and kept hitting them with PB blaster. Kept waiting for them to strip but amazingly they didn't. Long and arduous process but worked. Like I do every time I take anything off the car and put it back, I clean it and prep it to be easier to remove the next time.
20190331_174513 by C B, on FlickrNice to have new studs. I thought the new hub would spin more freely, but it doesn't really, sorta feels the same as the old one only this one is quiet. Not sure why this hub had a few areas of corrosion on it, the other one didn't. Maybe it wasn't oiled quite enough before it was packaged.
20190331_183848 by C B, on FlickrDriver side next, I know it is worse so we'll see how that goes. Can't wait.
Using Timken #512179 off RockAuto, they looked identical to the ones that came off, down to the number/letter designations. I had bought replacement spindle nuts too but they were not as beefy as the ones on the car so I reused them, they seemed to be in good enough shape to do so.
Last edited:
OE wheel hubs bearing are from NTN. It's always graved on the bearing itself, if the one you removed doesn't says NTN it then means they've been changed in the past.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
^Thanks I'll look at them again.
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Timken is what I've used on all of my hubs, front and rear, and I havent had an issue yet
RedRyder
Save the manuals
^Glad to hear this, thanks Evan. Not a terrible job but with upkeeping 3 cars now the longer stuff lasts the better.
