puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Welcome to the club. It fun sometimes here with 3 cars
RR's '99 coupe EX-L
- Thread starter RedRyder
- Start date
Welcome to the club. It fun sometimes here with 3 cars
T.$.Racing
Well-Known Member
Beautiful work. I especially love the interior, Honda themselves couldn't of done a better job if they had set out to make an "Accord Si"
I can't found many flaws to the 6gen coupe, but if one thing the coupe should have come from factory and something i'm highly jaleous of it's the CL dash...But the original 6gen dash isn't bad and i like it too to be honest.
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Thanks man, OEM+ was my goal for the car outisde and in. For me the CL-S seats made the interior, they are so comfortable and have great bolstering. And they look cool.
I always liked the dash until someone pointed out how similar it is to the Civic of similar years. I went and googled some pics, and I was like crap that's true. I mean it's not bad, but yeah the CL dash is soo much better.
You mean the 6gen look the civic dash ? Just googled it and its indeed in the same idea, still the 6gen look way better especially with a nice 7" double din screen
. As for the CL dash i like how everything is toward the driver and that rake down to the low console. It remind me a lot those great jdm oldschool supercars dashes like the NSX, 300ZX and Supra's.
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RedRyder
Save the manuals
Replaced driver side rear wheel bearing assembly, race bearing stuck on spindle again but walked it off even easier than the passenger side. Pretty easy job once you've done it once. So nice when a job goes quick and smooth haha. Excited to drive the car again, though need to see if the battery is still good since it went flat again days ago. Guessing I let it sit dead too long...
The Timken bearing assemblies actually had NTN on them.
Replaced rear passenger wheel bearing assembly w/Timken assy (RockAuto) & reused spindle nut: 3/30/2019 (2xx,xxxmi)
Replaced rear driver wheel bearing assembly w/Timken assy (RockAuto) & reused spindle nut: 4/19/2019 (2xx,xxxmi)
The Timken bearing assemblies actually had NTN on them.
Replaced rear passenger wheel bearing assembly w/Timken assy (RockAuto) & reused spindle nut: 3/30/2019 (2xx,xxxmi)
Replaced rear driver wheel bearing assembly w/Timken assy (RockAuto) & reused spindle nut: 4/19/2019 (2xx,xxxmi)
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Yes, some aftermarkets companies use NTN bearings for their parts as well which is good sign.
6GAPA
New Member
What kind of connectors are the ones you used to plug into the fuse box?Re: RR's 3.2L '99 EX-L Coupe 6MT
I totally understand. Just as if I where to try something in your line of work, I would be lost. Tomorrow I'am off. I will check my accord harness and pull the one I made out and ship it to you. Not Rywire Quality but it works!!! LOL. Shipping is your problem.
Lets see if I can explain it,
1. The Drivers fuse box has empty slots that have power. Which I believe 2 are only on when the car is on. Which is great for not draining your battery.
Where the pencil is pointing, are the slots on the drivers fuse box that I'am talking about. ( Under The Steering wheel, NOT the side with the fuses).
We will use 2 slots. Preferably the ones that have no power when the car is off.
** I Do Not Know Why The Picture Is Upside Down. Its Suppose To Be With The Pencil On The lower Left Corner**
2. 1 of the slots will have a 7.5A Inline fuse. The other slot will use a 20A Inline fuse.
3. You will need a 4 pin relay.
3A. The wire that has the 7.5A will go to connector 86 on the relay.
3B. The wire with the 20A will go to connector 30 on the relay.
3C. Connector 85 From the relay goes to any good ground.
ALL THIS IS JUST UP TO THE RELAY (THE RED DOT IN MY AWESOME EDITED PICTURE)
3D. Pin 87 on the relay now travels all the way to the switches.
4. Each switch has a WHITE/BLACK wire splice them together and splice it into the wire coming from the relay pin 87.
5. Each Switch has 6 wires. (5 left since we spliced the WHITE/BLACK one In step 4.
5A. Ground both black wires from both switches to the frame, or with the radio black wire. (Any ground is fine)
5B. There is a RED and RED/BLACK wire on each switch. Splice them together and splice into the radio RED and RED/BLACK wires accordingly.
ALL UP TO HERE ARE THE 2 RED DOTS WHERE THE CANADIAN SWITCHES GO
6A. The drivers switch has 2 wires left. Usually the one with red is high and blue is low. For example, WHITE/RED is the high, WHITE/BLUE is the low setting. Run each wire to the appropriate Pin-out on your seat of choice. (Depending on your model seat, the Pin-Out Changes for different year models) Just let me know what year CL seat you Have.
6B. SAME THING ON THE PASSENGERS SIDE
7. GROUND THE CORRECT GROUND WIRES FROM THE SEAT CONNECTOR. If you don't, the circuit will be incomplete and wont work. If you want to test them, Sit on them. LOL DUH, But I mean sit on them because when I had my 03 Accord seats in my car, they have some type of sensor that only works when someone is sitting on them. I hated that. I'am not sure how the Acura ones are setup.
I don't need it. If you want pay for the relay (not sure where mine went) and shipping and you can have it. Here it is......Not the prettiest but its in perfect working order.
After The Inline Fuses You Can See Some Small Cut Wires, This is where The relay Use to be.
Some oem like for the switches
and some after market that came with simple ebay fog harness. the connector fit perfectly in the fuse box
RedRyder
Save the manuals
^there ya go, from the man himself.
Hope all is well, Frankie. I never did wire up the passenger seat lol. And the mirrors I never finished because I couldn't fish the damn defroster wires through that S shaped accordian tube that goes from the door to the dash.
Hope all is well, Frankie. I never did wire up the passenger seat lol. And the mirrors I never finished because I couldn't fish the damn defroster wires through that S shaped accordian tube that goes from the door to the dash.
