RR's '99 coupe EX-L

RedRyder

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I know it's been a while but on those pics you was on koni yellow and eibach sportlines, but you had the front and/or back on the standard perch position or on lower position ? Also do you remember the tire size you had there ? Seems 225-45-17 but let me know if you remember. Thanks

Was I? Looks lower than that haha, but that was so long ago, as you said. Anyway I think since the Sportlines give the same drop front and rear and the 6GA is known for the front being higher from the factory...I want to say I had the fronts on the lower perch and the rears on the upper perch.

Wheel/tire setup there is 18x8 +45, 225/40/18
 

cg4ever

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So basically you had a total of 65mm drop in front and 50mm in back. So 15mm difference seems enough to even front and back without falling into a positive rake.
 

CDsDontBurn

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Anyway I think since the Sportlines give the same drop front and rear and the 6GA is known for the front being higher from the factory

So basically you had a total of 65mm drop in front and 50mm in back. So 15mm difference seems enough to even front and back without falling into a positive rake.

The infamous "Boat Look" of these 6GAs when using Eibach springs, ProKit (1.5" drop) or Sportlines (2.5" drop). Over on DA I made a post spreading information on what had already been done on another forum several years prior in order to resolve the "Boat Look" on our 6GAs.

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/dirty-girls-official-thread.468513/page-16#post-6833818
 

cg4ever

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Thanks for your input and i'm aware of this mod but modifying the forks is out of question for me. I have springs that are 40/30mm already and want to go a tad more low while retaining progressive springs, that's why i think yellows is the best option with their adjustable forks.

And don't ask why i go this route, because i live in a shithole called Belgium and you can't install any aftermaket parts on your car if the parts don't have german TUV homologation and most of them don't come with it... Because of this possibilities are extreeeemely narrowed... Even with the yellows i'm normally not allowed to use the lower groove, only upper, if inspection see this i'm getting flagged..But there is more ridiculous things you can't do but better not going into this.
 

CDsDontBurn

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I wasn't telling you to do this, I was presenting it to you as an option. I was unaware of the vehicle inspection being so stringent where you are located.

I'm curious though, would it still not pass inspection though? You are only modifying the stock fork. Unless the person doing the inspection knows these cars intimately, are they going to know that the OEM fork was modified to have the car sit slightly lower on the front? I'm just curious is all.
 

cg4ever

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You can't modifiy any of the original parts. If it's done properly without any trace of modification they might not see it and won't notice the half inch drop. But like you said if the person know intimately the car or is very aware and spot it you get flagged.

Another example is tyres and wheels, you can't install a setup that will have too much percentage difference in diameter than factory specs. Here again tyres size choices are very limited.
 

RedRyder

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This past winter my Accord's heat went out just as the weather started warming up, so with Fall coming up (yes I didn't bother looking at this all summer haha) I wanted to get the heat working again. The A/C is working but not very cold even after I charged it, I figured maybe something else in the A/C system was faulty. So I could get either remotely cool air or whatever the outside temp was. Before this, the heat was stuck on and could not get any cool air or outside air at all.

So at the advice of Jon (kn0x47) and a thread I saw recently here, I started playing with the blend door actuator. Turns out it had been malfunctioning which explains why my heat was stuck on and then stuck off, as well as why my A/C wasn't very cold. Then it finally died with the blend door blocking the heat off. I reached up there and found that if I manually move the blend door one way (toward passenger side) my A/C was much colder, and if I moved it the other way (toward driver side) my heat would work.

It looks like the part number for the blend door actuator is 79140-S84-A01, but I came across another number which is 79160-S84-A01. I believe it's the 79140 but need to look further into it. Anyway there are big price differences between these, some seem to come complete and others I'd have to swap parts.

Anyway just posting about this because I was so relieved it's easily fixable, and that I could still get cold A/C and hot heat in this 22 year old car! haha

EDIT: I need 79160-S84-A01
 
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T.$.Racing

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This past winter my Accord's heat went out just as the weather started warming up, so with Fall coming up (yes I didn't bother looking at this all summer haha) I wanted to get the heat working again. The A/C is working but not very cold even after I charged it, I figured maybe something else in the A/C system was faulty. So I could get either remotely cool air or whatever the outside temp was. Before this, the heat was stuck on and could not get any cool air or outside air at all.

So at the advice of Jon (kn0x47) and a thread I saw recently here, I started playing with the blend door actuator. Turns out it had been malfunctioning which explains why my heat was stuck on and then stuck off, as well as why my A/C wasn't very cold. Then it finally died with the blend door blocking the heat off. I reached up there and found that if I manually move the blend door one way (toward passenger side) my A/C was much colder, and if I moved it the other way (toward driver side) my heat would work.

It looks like the part number for the blend door actuator is 79140-S84-A01, but I came across another number which is 79160-S84-A01. I believe it's the 79140 but need to look further into it. Anyway there are big price differences between these, some seem to come complete and others I'd have to swap parts.

Anyway just posting about this because I was so relieved it's easily fixable, and that I could still get cold A/C and hot heat in this 22 year old car! haha

Always a good feeling to get problems like that figured out, even if its just to the point that at least now you know what needs replacing. On my '98, as well as with pretty much every car I've owned, you can hear the blend door actuator doing its thing when going from hot to cold or vice versa. Give it a listen when you do replace it, you'll be able to hear it from the drivers seat no problem.
 

RedRyder

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Always a good feeling to get problems like that figured out, even if its just to the point that at least now you know what needs replacing. On my '98, as well as with pretty much every car I've owned, you can hear the blend door actuator doing its thing when going from hot to cold or vice versa. Give it a listen when you do replace it, you'll be able to hear it from the drivers seat no problem.

Agree, and glad I can still get the part to do manually what it is supposed to do automatically, albeit it's a hassle. hashtag bighandproblems

I don't know if I've ever heard that thing working even when it did, I must not have been listening closely enough. I'll do that when I replace it!
 
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T.$.Racing

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Agree, and glad I can still get the part to do manually what it is supposed to do automatically, albeit it's a hassle. hashtag bighandproblems

I don't know if I've ever heard that thing working even when it did, I must not have been listening closely enough. I'll do that when I replace it!

Used to reach under the dash on my XJ Cherokee to do the same thing before I fixed it lol. Its a subtle vacuum sound and then you hear the flap itself move, but if you listen closely you'll hear it.
 

RedRyder

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Used to reach under the dash on my XJ Cherokee to do the same thing before I fixed it lol. Its a subtle vacuum sound and then you hear the flap itself move, but if you listen closely you'll hear it.
Gotta love old cars lol.

Cool thanks, I'll know what to listen for. Exhaust may have also played a role.
 

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