starts and dies and s/b 00-024 hot soak

lothian

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I had the same issue and was able to fix it by swapping over to odyssey fuel rail setup i used the van rails fpr and lines to the fpr. it was a direct swap and worked perfect. got all the parts from the local u-pull junk yard for less than $100.

i'm definitely intrigued with your solution.

what year Odyssey did you pull these parts from? i presume '00, but it'd be helpful if you recall the specific year.
 
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xci.ed6

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I have yet to run into this, I am very interested though, who has it and an OBD2 data log and other tools?

I want:
ECT, reading and real temp (use actual thermometer! IR works)
EGR position
TPS position
MAP reading
fuel pressure, actual gauge!
 

CDsDontBurn

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It's been a while since I've run into this. I never really did anything to resolve it though other than change the EGR valve, clean out the EGR port on both the upper and lower intake manifolds, and replace the IACV. I have yet to have this issue again, but I don't believe that my issue is resolved completely.
 

xci.ed6

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I just read through the tsb, it makes it sound like something gets hot, that shouldn't...and a FPR...and a new computer...

My guess:
fuel gets hot, and boils
new FPR bumps pressure, to raise boiling temp
new computer is programmed for a new fuel pressure & flow rate...

My guess, you can probly you raise your pressure a bit, was 55-63? So...like 65-75?
Fix program, somehow, may be fine with a few mods + computer 'correction'

My guess is ya get this problem at the low-end of pressure, if you want to try cheap, squeeze the fpr in a vise with sockets, it will squeeze the spring a bit, and raise the pressure a bit. Fix the increase with cutting back MAP signal, somehow.

I *thought* I had a IAT sensor problem, now this makes me think it's fuel issue...
 

CDsDontBurn

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I just read through the tsb, it makes it sound like something gets hot, that shouldn't...and a FPR...and a new computer...

My guess:
fuel gets hot, and boils
new FPR bumps pressure, to raise boiling temp
new computer is programmed for a new fuel pressure & flow rate...


My guess, you can probly you raise your pressure a bit, was 55-63? So...like 65-75?
Fix program, somehow, may be fine with a few mods + computer 'correction'

My guess is ya get this problem at the low-end of pressure, if you want to try cheap, squeeze the fpr in a vise with sockets, it will squeeze the spring a bit, and raise the pressure a bit. Fix the increase with cutting back MAP signal, somehow.

I *thought* I had a IAT sensor problem, now this makes me think it's fuel issue...

Your guesses are correct. The bold is the issue, the red is the fix. Some people say to start with the simple cheaper things like a new IACV, EGR valve, and EGR port cleaning and if those don't work, move on to the FPR and a new PCM.

I've had this happen to me many times, and let me tell you, it effing sucks when it happens. Aside from the symptoms of the car shutting off on you when you first start it, you need to floor the gas pedal for about 3min - 5min before your car will stay on. Then, once it does stay on, the car will stutter with a misfire for several minutes and as a result throw a CEL for random misfire and misfire on each cylinder, P0300 - P0306, which of course will stay on until you either clear it or the car relearns itself after ~50 miles of driving.
 

xci.ed6

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wow, exactly like my 'symptoms'...

well, IR temp gun in the car, now I need a fuel pressure gauge (installed while I roll)...

Already monitoring OBD2 constantly (through radio & 'Torque')

Road Trip!

[edit: I already planned out how to 'bump pressure' I am now looking for an Apex'i SAFC or VAFC to mod my MAP signal to compensate my computer...if anyone happens to have one...the have doubled in price!!! I would like an old style AFC with ~5 knobs on the front http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA==/z/wBEAAOSwdpxUWLy-/$_57.JPG ]
 
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CDsDontBurn

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You have to remember, in order to bring this back up for replication, the car must sit between 15min - 45min after having been driven a minimum of 30min. If you want to get the best analysis of your car's data through the OBD2 monitoring, I'd say replicate the problem to see what it's reading at when it's happening.
 

xci.ed6

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That's my plan!

Most of the time, it showed up when i left from a store, but I had forgotten my IR temp sensor. I had expected my IAT to read higher than it should, by guessing, but so far it hasn't seemed to.

My IAT & EGR are clean.
 
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xci.ed6

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Oh, yeah, fpr should hold pressure, even if it is a gas (double-meaning, gasoline and not a liquid) but that has less 'mass'. wot = longer injector time, missfire = not quite running

So a gauge has a drain port, use it to fill a 20oz bottle, you should notice that hot, and you should run fresh gasoline, from the tank, enough to cool the rail & line.
 
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