Alright, Im gonna just put this out there, maybe someone can confirm, deny or just add to this.
I have the 2000 V6 coupe and here are the symptoms:
In the morning, or on a cold engine (like after work), the car always starts and runs fine, but on a warm/hot engine, if I shut it off and let it sit for like 15-20 min, it would sometimes start and then stall. (I still have yet to pinpoint the exact number of minutes it takes for the fuel to vaporize and thus causing the stall) To get it to run, I would have to gun the engine right away (right after I crank) and rev it to like 1k+ so it wouldn't die right away and then quickly put into gear and just DRIVE. I KNOW I AM NOT ALONE WITH THIS!
BUT if i let the engine cool for like 30-45 minutes (this wait time is still subject to verification haha) the car would start and run normally.
I have DONE A LOT OF SEARCH on this and here are my findings:
1) It is not the battery, I just got a kirkland one two days ago and even checked it with a multimeter to make sure it is good and fresh (10/10 manu date)
2) It is not the main relay b/c I just changed it about 6-8 months ago with a new OEM
3) It is not the ignition switch because my car would never die after it is in gear driving
4) It might be a dirty IACV, (which would be a cheaper fix and I will try to clean that out later this week.) I actually am starting to doubt this b/c if it is dirty and clogged wouldn't the starting issues be more often? Also my tach doesn't fluctuate as much.
If not any of the above, I am leaning toward the service bulletin 00-024
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/acuramstr/2008-11-06_190220_heat_soak.pdf
I think I might be able to change it myself. (Maybe just bring the new and old PCM to honda and have them rekey/ reflash to new keys) and then install it myself! Any comments on this?
Anyways basically what it says is that the type of winter fuel blend we have here has a lower boiling pt and after a drive where the car gets to operating temp, if you stop and shut the car off for like 15-20 mins, the residual fuel in the rail lines would vaporize. If you try to start the car again within the 15-20 minutes, it would start and then die unless you do the gunning trick I mentioned or simply wait 30-45 minutes for the car to cool.
BTW since there are no fuel in the rail lines, it might also cause the check engine light to go on (because there is an incorrect mixture in the cylinders) causing misfires all over. I got that yesterday and just cleared them. I ain't about to change my spark plugs or coils just yet. I will update this if they keep coming back. (Having your own DTC reader is a GOOD thing)
But for the time being, I will try and always let the car cool for like 30-45 minutes and we will see. If this works, I might just live with it haha b/c the hot soak 00-024 job at the dealer is like very expensive and I am out of warranty. I might try to get honda goodwill.
I hope the above sheds some light for someone, before they change things that might not be the culprit (I am not saying the hot soak is 100% right b/c I just discovered this last night but I will check it out.)
Also the reason I think you need the whole FPR Kit mentioned in the 00-024 SB (contains a new fuel pressure regulator and a new PCM) is that the new FPR has a bigger opening to contain more fuel at a higher pressure and the new PCM has updated software and stuff to work with that. What is interesting is that this issue mainly affects the 2000 v6 accord so I am included but I am out of the damn normal warranty.
Yeah my car always starts on a cold engine so that can be a sign to carry around maybe some dry ice HAHAHAH