starts and dies and s/b 00-024 hot soak

cl206

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This Saturday I am getting this done and I will do a full report with pics. Fingers crossed! I finally got my kit today after FEDEX almost sent it to the wrong address.
 

accordwhite00

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Damn, What have you done to try to fix it?

I have tried the fuel pressure regulator, IAC, fuel pump & main relay
 

cl206

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ALRIGHT SUCCESS! What a NICE DAY!
DISCLAIMER: Just cause it worked for me, I can't guarantee it will work for someone else. This is just information that might help someone to go in the right direction. It was a $710 (total) risk on my part because I didn't have ANYONE diagnose it but me, because frankly, I trust myself :hihi:

Car: 2000 LX V6 coupe
Service bulletin: 00-024 (In my first post)

Symptom: After driving the car until it has warmed up, like 20-30 minutes or more, you then shut it off for 20 minutes. If you start it, the engine will start but then stall. Tach will drop right to zero and all sorts of dash lights will be on. You can try to restart several times before it works or give it gas as you soon as you start it to prevent it from stalling. Eventually I was finding myself shifting into gear quickly to get it to stay running. This might trigger a CEL, like I had last week but I cleared it with my scanner and it has been fine since! Before the fix, it always starts when the car has been sitting for 45 min or more.

Remedy: I bought the Fuel Pressure Regulator kit from Tim and then had my honda dealership install it today. I tested it THREE TIMES and all three times the car started with the tach strongly resting steadily around 650-700 RPM! Previously in the past week, I had done the same test like 5 times and it stalled 4 times while one time it almost stalled. This is looking GOOD!:peace::D:thumbup:

Some PICS:

The FPR KIT:
IMG_2433.jpg


The new FPR:
IMG_2417.jpg


Location of the FPR:
IMG_2438.jpg


Closer look, this is the new FPR:
IMG_2439.jpg


Location of PCM:
IMG_2434.jpg


Ah there you are Mr. NEW PCM:
IMG_2435.jpg



Proof of my mileage:
IMG_2437.jpg


Again this was expensive, but I am the original owner and I plan on keeping this for many years to come so for me it is DEFINITELY worth it. I will keep my receipts just in case HONDA extends the warranty.

I really do hope this helps someone. I had changed the main relay several months ago and evidently that wasn't the issue hehe

BOOOOOYAH!!!! GOOOOO ACCOOOOORRRRDDDD!!!
 
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cl206

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Damn nice there! You are the first person of the three honda forums I'm on that I know that has confirmed the fix! Glad it's working outfor you.

Yep, I just noticed that u have a 2000 V6 coupe too, so if you are experiencing these symptoms, this is probably the fix. I will post another update in several weeks to really confirm this. But it does seem to be working now. Wooohooo!
 

CDsDontBurn

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indeed i do. that's why i took great interest in your thread and the results you've received. keep me/us posted on this!

on a side note, was your accord's odometer off by a small amount? like 5MPH? if so, has it been corrected with the new PCM?
 

cl206

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Yeah I have tested it so far like 6-8 times and now I am 100% convinced this was my fix. Did you mean my speedometer? It isn't off. It looks off because of the angle I took the pic with.
 

jester1020

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Alright, Im gonna just put this out there, maybe someone can confirm, deny or just add to this.

I have the 2000 V6 coupe and here are the symptoms:
In the morning, or on a cold engine (like after work), the car always starts and runs fine, but on a warm/hot engine, if I shut it off and let it sit for like 15-20 min, it would sometimes start and then stall. (I still have yet to pinpoint the exact number of minutes it takes for the fuel to vaporize and thus causing the stall) To get it to run, I would have to gun the engine right away (right after I crank) and rev it to like 1k+ so it wouldn't die right away and then quickly put into gear and just DRIVE. I KNOW I AM NOT ALONE WITH THIS!

BUT if i let the engine cool for like 30-45 minutes (this wait time is still subject to verification haha) the car would start and run normally.

I have DONE A LOT OF SEARCH on this and here are my findings:

1) It is not the battery, I just got a kirkland one two days ago and even checked it with a multimeter to make sure it is good and fresh (10/10 manu date)

2) It is not the main relay b/c I just changed it about 6-8 months ago with a new OEM

3) It is not the ignition switch because my car would never die after it is in gear driving

4) It might be a dirty IACV, (which would be a cheaper fix and I will try to clean that out later this week.) I actually am starting to doubt this b/c if it is dirty and clogged wouldn't the starting issues be more often? Also my tach doesn't fluctuate as much.

If not any of the above, I am leaning toward the service bulletin 00-024

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/acuramstr/2008-11-06_190220_heat_soak.pdf
I think I might be able to change it myself. (Maybe just bring the new and old PCM to honda and have them rekey/ reflash to new keys) and then install it myself! Any comments on this?

Anyways basically what it says is that the type of winter fuel blend we have here has a lower boiling pt and after a drive where the car gets to operating temp, if you stop and shut the car off for like 15-20 mins, the residual fuel in the rail lines would vaporize. If you try to start the car again within the 15-20 minutes, it would start and then die unless you do the gunning trick I mentioned or simply wait 30-45 minutes for the car to cool.

BTW since there are no fuel in the rail lines, it might also cause the check engine light to go on (because there is an incorrect mixture in the cylinders) causing misfires all over. I got that yesterday and just cleared them. I ain't about to change my spark plugs or coils just yet. I will update this if they keep coming back. (Having your own DTC reader is a GOOD thing)

But for the time being, I will try and always let the car cool for like 30-45 minutes and we will see. If this works, I might just live with it haha b/c the hot soak 00-024 job at the dealer is like very expensive and I am out of warranty. I might try to get honda goodwill.

I hope the above sheds some light for someone, before they change things that might not be the culprit (I am not saying the hot soak is 100% right b/c I just discovered this last night but I will check it out.)

Also the reason I think you need the whole FPR Kit mentioned in the 00-024 SB (contains a new fuel pressure regulator and a new PCM) is that the new FPR has a bigger opening to contain more fuel at a higher pressure and the new PCM has updated software and stuff to work with that. What is interesting is that this issue mainly affects the 2000 v6 accord so I am included but I am out of the damn normal warranty.

Yeah my car always starts on a cold engine so that can be a sign to carry around maybe some dry ice HAHAHAH



I know the thread is old but if it helps I had the same issue and was able to fix it by swapping over to odyssey fuel rail setup i used the van rails fpr and lines to the fpr. it was a direct swap and worked perfect. got all the parts from the local u-pull junk yard for less than $100 which was a lot better than the $2500 the dealer said it would cost because the ecu had to be changed. p.s. I did change just the fpr with the updated unit first and it didn't help me at all.
 
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Motoman

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Digging up old threads... I know. I have the same exact issue but on my 2001 v6 sedan. I'm on the fence about the tsb since it's specific to 2000 models.
 
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