Trying to make my accord more fun and pass, questions smog

boorishid

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So im thinking of doing this set up to my f23a4

-dc header (would possibly use non CARB and just swap at smog if there is something better out there?)
-ported polished heads
-ported TB
-possibly TB spacer just cuz, some people claim it works looked at some real dynos the other day in a miata forum or somthing minimal gains but still only 30 bucks)
-Bisi Stage 1 cam and gear
-bisi heat shielding manifold gasket
-underived crank pully and lightened accessory pulleys (Dont wanna hear **** i think its a myth are engines are internally balanced, maybe one of thos NRG dampeners would help the torsional vibration dangers?)

-I have an a cat back with a magnaflow straight thru a local muffler shop made, at the time i knew nothing, Its 2.5 pipe not mandrel bent though. I had them run as straight as possible so there are only 3 45's in the pipe. Im wondering if it is worth it to invest in a solid cat back?

-Also have a pos auto zone plastic intake (the kind u build in pieces if you know what im talking about) ran it so the kn filter sits right over the hole in my wheel well.

-I actually have an idea maybe to rig up a velocity stack to pieces of mandrel bent pipe welded together (maybe pvc would be better since it doesnt conduct heat well?) through the wheel well hole and point the volicty stack straight out the bumper (behind the hole fog lights would go into im guessing). I think this would create a cool ram air type intake, and you can get those aem bypass valves in different diameters it seems, so that could prevent hyrdo lock, just not sure how to filter the air at the moment.

-As far as engine managment goes im not sure id need a piggy back i have an auto and id need to be able to go back to stock tune for smog. They dont seem to be making VAFC anymore either. Maybe just the cam gear tune would be enough?

Anyways just curious i know alot of you are also in so-cal, Would my car pass a sniffer with the ported heads? Thats all im really worried about. Also i got the intake idea from someone on an si forum but he used rigid hos and all this stuff and put it in his bumper, i want the volcity stack to suck in fresh air through a hole in the bumper, and have a smooth path, Does anyone acually think the ram air thing would be better than a CAI?
 

HondaLuver83

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So you think its a myth huh? Read and you shall attain:


Mechanical resonance is the tendency of a mechanical system to absorb more energy when the frequency of its oscillations matches the system's natural frequency of vibration (its resonance frequency or resonant frequency) than it does at other frequencies. It may cause violent swaying motions and even catastrophic failure in improperly constructed structures including bridges, buildings, and airplanes a phenomenon known as resonance disaster.

In addition, engineers designing objects having engines must ensure that the mechanical resonant frequencies of the component parts do not match driving vibrational frequencies of the motors or other strongly oscillating parts.

But to put it into basics, all the things you listed above. MIGHT net you like 30-40whp....
 
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boorishid

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as far as the pullys go, idk i think things fail people blaim the pulley. ive heard of people using them over 100k. How many people here have had pulleys and bearing damage?

and im fine with 30 40 hp i understand it wont be alot, im just wondering if porting the head/using bigger tb will make me fail a california smog test? i tried to google it but couldnt find any info on weather it will make my car fail smog
 
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HondaLuver83

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It's probably a slim chance, but it's not worth the 2hp. Your stock harmonic balancer is not causing much hp loss.

As far as smog, you can do whatever you want with your car. As long as your not affecting the OBDII system in anyway. Passing smog has to do with having a good catalytic converter...passing DEQ involves running a code reader and checking for CEL. If none are present, you will pass DEQ.

Porting the head, changing the camshaft and cam gear are a good combonation. But you won't get hardly any gains without changing the fuel trims, so you won't be able to convert it to OBD1, since that will not pass DEQ. You will need to buy a piggy back system to tune your car with that set up.

And stop trying to make a homemade intake, or anything homemade in that matter. If your willing to spend the money on your engine, why would you cheap out on an intake? It's pretty crucial that you have a decent intake with what your talking about doing.
 
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boorishid

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Ok thanks i wasnt sure that if i opend the head up, if that would some how f my smog, as far as a piggyback goes idk what to buy when im ready, VAFC 2 is discontinued if anyone has a good suggestion than ill look into it.

The intake isnt becuase im being cheap btw. As i said in my other post i truly believe that my design is superior and ram air should be way better than a cai, i have been rethinging making the opening the whole center whole in the oem bumper or just using a velo stack fujita filter with the whole pointing out the bumper. This isnt aboust saying a buck its about doing something more efficient. And i truly belive steel intakes arent as good of an idea becuase they transfer heat alot easier.
 

boorishid

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well i detect some unneeded sarcasm, but im actually in school to be an engineer =p
 

cajun

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...i have been rethinging making the opening the whole center whole in the oem bumper or just using a velo stack fujita filter with the whole pointing out the bumper...

Interesting theory...no sarcasm intended.

I just wonder how smart it would be to have an air intake opening pointing out the front bumper. Think of all the shyte you scrape off the bumper and how dinged up it gets from road debris.
 

kn0x47

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Does anyone acually think the ram air thing would be better than a CAI?

cai gets colder air cause its outside the engine bay. your ram air idea is to get air outside the engine bay....the difference is you'll end up sucking up more dirt and road debris because its not protected by the bumper. also if you're running piping all they way to the front grill (no matter what material you use) you're going to lose low end power.

companies don't just bend a metal pipe and throw it on a car. length, diameter, thickness all play a factor and like tb spacers, they're dyno tested (or should be). it takes dynamic analysis to determine an intake...the longer and more bends there are the slower the air flow and with more bends you increase air temperature. also the engine can only suck in so much air at once and companies take that flow rate into account. ...there's a reason name brand intakes cost more than ebay or homemade

unless you're removing you radiator to get the intake to run thru there, you're just throwing off your air/fuel ratio and will end up decrease gas mileage and horsepower.
if you're seriously that dedicated to getting more air then buy a cold air intake, cut a whole in your bumper in front of the filter and use that pipe rapping stuff people put around turbo piping and exhaust. metal pipe isnt that expensive, has a smooth interior surface and isnt too hard to bend...thats why its used and it doesn't absorb a lot of heat. next time you're around a metal intake feel the inside of it not the outside...itll be cooler.

people aren't being sarcastic on here just to be a dick. they know you'll be waisting a lot of time that will end up hurting your cars performance and they're trying to keep you from doing something you shouldn't....doing something different isn't always a good idea.

sense your studying engineering...take heat transfer, thermodynamics 1 and 2, and vibration analysis. you'll learn a lot

also, why would you need a piggy back system when all you're talking about doing is porting and adding an intake?
and, i wouldnt buy a tb spacer just because of dyno charts on a miata...a chart on an f22 or f23 is your only real hopeful information
 
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