V6 Brakes swap: Caster out of spec. Isolated case?

[cvjoint]

that is one sweet picture with the wheel off the ground Drift!

I was looking at the radius rods today, if my caster is not back to normal now I think I'm very screwed. To get positive caster the rod needs to be shortened, which as far as I can tell is a no go. By adding shims the caster can only be decreased. Upper control arms are also fixed caster wise, there is no play in the adjustment plate front to back.

Off to buy a new fender and side skirt.

 

[Drift]

that is one sweet picture with the wheel off the ground Drift!

Thanks!

I was looking at the radius rods today, if my caster is not back to normal now I think I'm very screwed. To get positive caster the rod needs to be shortened, which as far as I can tell is a no go. By adding shims the caster can only be decreased. Upper control arms are also fixed caster wise, there is no play in the adjustment plate front to back.

Off to buy a new fender and side skirt.

That sucks.

 

[finch13]

Bet you the hub is bent from a crash Replace it with a new one and you should be golden.

 

[cvjoint]

Even with the screws all kosher the caster is off. It looks like I will have to take it to a collision repair specialist that has an alignment platform too. Two things that I can think of:
frame is bent
Upper adjustable arm for camber throws off caster.

 

[cvjoint]

Update to keep this thread somewhat informative. I had the chassis slotted to fix the caster problem.

Well whatever it was the frame wasn't straight. I took it to Bear Frame in Glendora today. The guys brought up the caster to 2 degrees positive on both sides. I didn't get a printout like most places, I don't know if they have that kind of technology available.

I'm thinking of going for one of those free alignment checks just to get a printout.

Settings should be:
0 toe all around
-1.2 camber front
-.5 camber back
2 degrees positive caster

I find this to be the best trade off for a DD with some canyon carving.