Voltage Drop Question

Sketch o5

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aahh, gotcha. i mean i figured that output would be dropped when the voltage goes down, but i didnt think it would really mess with the amps at all haha.
 

ryan s

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electronics dont really like to rapidly switch input voltages going full tilt :lawl:
 

1998accordsirt

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I did a PowerPoint on Honda charging system about 2 years ago when I was a freshman in my automotive electronics class at SIU.

Here is some info you may find helpful about how the system works:

There are two charging modes (this is common with most manufacturers). Honda vehicles either charge at 12.5V or 14.5V. To be charged at 12V the following conditions must be met:

-Vehicle being started or load less than 13A
-Coolant temp above 167F
-Under 43mph
-Under 3,000RPM
-A/C off
-Brake switch off

If any one of these conditions is not met, the alt will charge at 14V.5V

PM if you would like more info. I also have the OE wiring diagram for the charging circuit.
 

ryan s

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how would the car use less than 13A while driving? lol...seems like a non-starter right there :lawl:

brake switch off...what does that refer to? the brakes not being used?

i'd be interested in the schematic, although i'd have no idea what to do to defeat the system :lawl:
 

tckm

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id be interested too!

ill have to test this out wehn i get home

im pretty sure it was at 12 when my ac was on
but ill have to check again
 

1998accordsirt

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how would the car use less than 13A while driving? lol...seems like a non-starter right there :lawl:

brake switch off...what does that refer to? the brakes not being used?

i'd be interested in the schematic, although i'd have no idea what to do to defeat the system :lawl:

Thats the whole point of the parameters, the system almost NEVER charges at 12.5V.

We did several tests on a BB6 Prelude lab car and it was nearly impossible to get it to charge at 12.5V. Even at cold idle with no loads or devices on it still charged at 14.5V

Yes, brake switch off refers to the brake pedal not being depressed.

The photo is rather small, I can see if I can grab a better one from AllData in class on Monday.

picture1ft.png
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TeeJ

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I have a similar problem after replacing my broken alternator. The voltage drops are so bad it triggers the dash lights that signifies a charging issue (battery, parking brake, doors etc) for a second or two. I don't know what to do as nothing is really "wrong" and i can't prove it, nor is it a constant problem.
 

tckm

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so
i did a fck load of googleing
and i am now convinced that it is the eld (electronic load detector)

check this out
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74496
and this
http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=107852


i will still try out my DRLs sometime today


edit:
or it could be this im not sure its the same on our cars, but its for a 98 acura CL but it mentioned something about a 98 accord (what google said at least)
http://cl.acurazine.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6280566

referring to #2 on this diagram (thanks to sketch05 for the pic in his diy for the a/f ratio gauge)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/sketch_o5/Gauges Install/f23aecuwiring2.gif

imma try to disconnect that tonight
and do that drl thing
and try disconnecting that eld thing
and see if anything works
 
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ryan s

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so
i did a fck load of googleing
and i am now convinced that it is the eld (electronic load detector)


i will still try out my DRLs sometime today


edit:
or it could be this im not sure its the same on our cars, but its for a 98 acura CL but it mentioned something about a 98 accord (what google said at least)
http://cl.acurazine.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6280566

referring to #2 on this diagram (thanks to sketch05 for the pic in his diy for the a/f ratio gauge)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v335/sketch_o5/Gauges Install/f23aecuwiring2.gif

imma try to disconnect that tonight
and do that drl thing
and try disconnecting that eld thing
and see if anything works
it IS the ELD...established on the first page of this thread :lawl:

i have no idea what disconnecting that pin will do, but its worth a try i guess.

as far as i'm aware, the ELD is coded into the ECU...you can't just disconnect it...
 
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