What'd you do to your accord today?

[CG6Lemon]

Also got a good quote today to get the engine steamed and cleaned along with a carpet/seats cleaning plus a wet sand and a stage 4 buff and wax for 250.00

I hope you've done some research on this business/company that will provide all that work for only 250. For 250 that seems way to CHEAP for them to do legit work. Let's say they work on your car for at the minimum 3 hours with one worker making min wage at 10/hr. The company is only earning 220 after 3 hours of wage. Let's say there's 2 workers now on your car, and they take 3 hrs to complete the task. Now the company is only making 190 before overhead rent, insurance, electricity, water, supplies, etc.

Now comes the question. Do you possibly think or expect they will be able to do legitimate work on your car in that short amount of time without cutting any corners and still be able to meet or exceed your expectations?

Now let's get to the actual detailing part instead of the business side of it. Some say they will steam clean your engine, but in reality they will use a hose and just hose it down which can cause problems to plugs, sensors, alternators, coils, anything electrical that's exposed to the moisture. Even though steam is a safe and effective procedure to clean the engine bay, I would recommend sealing off anything you don't want to get wet.

Regarding wet sanding, was your whole car recently repainted? If no, I would strongly advise not to let them wetsand anything. Oem paint is about anywhere from 100-150 microns which translates to 4-6mils of total film build starting from primer,base color, and clear. If you take a piece of post it, that's how thick your paint is, which is very "thin". I would only wetsand if I see a scratch that I believe I can level out the paint with light wetsanding safely after I measured it with a paint thickness gauge. Otherwise, I don't see a reason to unless you are trying to minimize the amount of orange peel.

When you said stage 4 buff and wax, please be sure to ask them what's included during the paint correction process. Stage 4 could mean anything from wash as step 1, claybar as step 2, compound/polish/finishing polish/glaze as step 3, and wax as step 4. When I hear how many steps it takes, to me it means step 1 is compounding, step 2 is polishing, step 3 is fine polishing. It's a different meaning to everyone so make sure to ask them about it.

After you are done with this detail, I hope you will be content with their work and it won't become a disaster because in the auto detailing industry, you really "get for what you pay for".

 

[99cfENVYv6]

Today my amp fried. I have no clue as to why...its been running fine under the same settings for 6-7 years. Not sure whether I want to sell the sub and enclosure to regain my trunk space and lessen the vehicle weight....or pay for amp repair.

 

[Simkid5614]

Delete: I'm just gonna shut the fk up.

 

[soccerchamp16]

Grinded down part of my wheel well to solve my rubbing issues
But I still rub when my wheel is turned my tire rubs against my fender.
Also restored my headlights!

 

[Valet]

Filled up. 3rd week in a row above 28 average with only 40/50 mph roads



I'm pleased

 

[Dukebb23]

I hope you've done some research on this business/company that will provide all that work for only 250. For 250 that seems way to CHEAP for them to do legit work. Let's say they work on your car for at the minimum 3 hours with one worker making min wage at 10/hr. The company is only earning 220 after 3 hours of wage. Let's say there's 2 workers now on your car, and they take 3 hrs to complete the task. Now the company is only making 190 before overhead rent, insurance, electricity, water, supplies, etc.

Now comes the question. Do you possibly think or expect they will be able to do legitimate work on your car in that short amount of time without cutting any corners and still be able to meet or exceed your expectations?

Now let's get to the actual detailing part instead of the business side of it. Some say they will steam clean your engine, but in reality they will use a hose and just hose it down which can cause problems to plugs, sensors, alternators, coils, anything electrical that's exposed to the moisture. Even though steam is a safe and effective procedure to clean the engine bay, I would recommend sealing off anything you don't want to get wet.

Regarding wet sanding, was your whole car recently repainted? If no, I would strongly advise not to let them wetsand anything. Oem paint is about anywhere from 100-150 microns which translates to 4-6mils of total film build starting from primer,base color, and clear. If you take a piece of post it, that's how thick your paint is, which is very "thin". I would only wetsand if I see a scratch that I believe I can level out the paint with light wetsanding safely after I measured it with a paint thickness gauge. Otherwise, I don't see a reason to unless you are trying to minimize the amount of orange peel.

When you said stage 4 buff and wax, please be sure to ask them what's included during the paint correction process. Stage 4 could mean anything from wash as step 1, claybar as step 2, compound/polish/finishing polish/glaze as step 3, and wax as step 4. When I hear how many steps it takes, to me it means step 1 is compounding, step 2 is polishing, step 3 is fine polishing. It's a different meaning to everyone so make sure to ask them about it.

After you are done with this detail, I hope you will be content with their work and it won't become a disaster because in the auto detailing industry, you really "get for what you pay for".

They are a great company that works on all the local dealerships cars. I called and got a quote but he said he will have to look at the car to actually give me an exact amount. I know the wet sanding is only being done on a couple of my dents and scratches not the whole car. They were recommended by 2 dealerships I called.

He said it would take between 4-6 hours to do everything needed. He was giving me a friends and family discount since I bought the car through a dealership he services. Once I advised him that it will be going to a car meet he stated I could bring it back over before I go to get it rebuffed again for just 50.00.

I will always go with what others have said and seen finished products about the company first.

Thanks for heads up though.

 

[RedRyder]

Gas cap didn't fix my 1456, canister and shutoff valve is next.

Bought the parts from rchondaparts.com. They had the cheapest price but shipping was slow as hell.

going to use Chido's DIY: http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38000

 

[kn0x47]

horrible day. first heat gun burns up as i'm finishing up my fenders (not too big of a deal). I go to install the new suspension on the rear and my hydrolic jack won't hold anymore. after getting the suspension out i noticed one of the rings on the coilovers i'm putting on got stuck on a bad thread so i'll be attempting to disassemble it and hopefully get the ring free. put the old suspension back on and the bottom nut the strut mounting bolt goes in broke off from its spot welds and one of them cross threaded.

so.... tomorrow morning i get to call honda so they can tell me they don't have the parts in stock then wait for them to get them then wait some more till i have access to another car. also gotta raise the front end a little bit tomorrow morning before i head to work

 

[LeAccord]

Finally clear coated and mounted my freshly painted wheels
Threw a 5mm spacer up front too.

In the next couple of days I'll go a little lower and soon enough i'll get some bigger bolt on spacers.

 

[Valet]

That looks amazing Alex!