to my knowledge, there is no way in earth can you get an h22 swap legalized in a 2002 car. honestly, if you want some power out of it, you have to do it illegally. an h22 would work so would boost, but neither's legal. I'm sorry to say this, (and you probably have heard it amilion times), if you want something decently fast.. u just gotta let go of your car, or do swaps/fi. And if you just can't part with your beloved accord (like me), then boost/swap would be your only option.
Bolt ons...discussion
- Thread starter talontsiawd
- Start date
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
That's A LOT more than just the head there buddy. Just the head by itself will drop compression down to 8.8 because of the larger chambers. 200whp was with OE K20 pistons and 11.5 compression. He only hit 248whp AFTER some huge *** Pro3 cams and Wiseco 12.8cr pistons. Being in nazi cali, he doesn't have the option to tune much unless he's willing to swap back to stock, which isn't an option with the G23 setup.
Haha I was thinking about that today.. I traded my dad cars today and I drove his 98 I4 auto w/cai and wow.... these 4cyl suck...I am soo used to my v6 and now that I have my Unichip and with my intake and strut and rear swaybars I feel a big difference from stock and I still need to install my UR SS underdrive pullies and finish my diy grounding kit... then my car will have serious power improvement.. and eventually slap on header/exhaust combo.. but today driving my dads 4cyl... I am not liking the performance.... I say sell them and get v6
It's the auto trannys that suck, not the motor. My 'sucky' 4cyl stayed right beside a modded V6 Accord (190whp/175wtq) up to 70mph, then started to pull away after that...
Charlie said:mods are:
AEM CAI
OBX headers
ebay exhaust
gutted cat
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley Set
Unichip
I say, "F" your V6.
Not without tuning.
Controlled by the ECU. But shaving the head, retarding cam timing and advancing ignition timing is an easy 20-25whp. No one here seems to understand that.
No one here has funds for a killer build like Shahid, but his kit is a great opportunity for a more fun Accord.
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mraw112
Well-Known Member
Did you get to 186whp with out even touching the block? Thats impressive. Just curious how much did you shave off the block/ whats your compression? I take it you have a chipped obd1 ecu. Is that how you advanced the ignition timing? I dont know much about those chips. Also any videos of your car running?
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
From the head gasket down is stock, minus drivetrain.
My head was milled a bit more than I wanted it to be, but it looks to be about .035", but it may be a bit more. If it's around the .035" that I've measured, then compression is probably around 10.0-10.1.
EMS/OBD1 ECU is the only way to correctly advance timing on the F23, and it does wonders. I don't really look at is as "chips" and I hate when someone refers to it as 'chipped'. It does use an EEPROM, but that's just a means of storing the tune. Socketing an ECU and throwing an ebay/spoon/jdm chip and calling it 'tuned' is for ricer fags IMO.
I have a couple dash cams of 0-60 and 0-100 runs, but nothing special.
My head was milled a bit more than I wanted it to be, but it looks to be about .035", but it may be a bit more. If it's around the .035" that I've measured, then compression is probably around 10.0-10.1.
EMS/OBD1 ECU is the only way to correctly advance timing on the F23, and it does wonders. I don't really look at is as "chips" and I hate when someone refers to it as 'chipped'. It does use an EEPROM, but that's just a means of storing the tune. Socketing an ECU and throwing an ebay/spoon/jdm chip and calling it 'tuned' is for ricer fags IMO.
I have a couple dash cams of 0-60 and 0-100 runs, but nothing special.
thejameshimself
Well-Known Member
I always assumed your were pushing 11:1 or more. Good to know my motor has potential!
HondaLuver83
Well-Known Member
He does have a pretty sweet build. N/A is the best for our accords but probably the most expensive. IMO going N/A means your going to have to do things the right way to acheive the best performance. Turbo kits on ebay are cheap, worthless and can be put together in no time. It doesnt take much knowledge to micky mouse install a cheap turbo kit and blow ur engine to hell.
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AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Definitely not 11:1. I think I'd be chewing valves if you managed 11:1 with the F23 dinner plates.
I believe boost is best for our F's. The Accord's tall gears, long stroke, bad r/s ratio, and generally low-end breathing abilities makes for a beast when boosted. But you're right, building for N/A is a painstaking trial and error process, while piecing together an ebay kit or buying a kit outright with just an FMU (or less, as many people here have) is a down right shame. Jeremiah on here has the right idea. OBD1 and boost, then a quick swap back to stock for inspections.
IMO, stay away of boost if you're using the stock ECU, otherwise, go all out!
hiddengamer7
Well-Known Member
Hey Jason, what all would be needed to run K20 pistons? New valvetrain and tune?
