cantafordaccord
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carbon build up and I THINK you should read up on how to read plugs ;-p
cars been maxing out lean on AFR 17.+,sluggish
- Thread starter 1NonlyAccord
- Start date
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
I'll add to this discussion, my car does a very similar thing, except I was tuned properly with no FMU. Just a few weeks ago, the car feels like it's 'out of tune'. Leans out miserably and does not pull at all. I have kept it on constant vacuum, but even at -5 to 0 vacuum, there is NO POWER. Boost leak test revealed no leaks even at 120PSI test. Genuine Walbro pump. Fuel pressure is constant at 46 per FPR.
Vacuum AFR is usually 15.4-18+ (off the chart)
I don't even attempt to go into positive pressure..
It always feels like something is inhibiting the power, because as soon as I let go of the gas, the car begins to slow down quicker than usual, like the engine or some other physical component is limiting it. Idle is prefect, no issues there whatsoever. Engine runs very smooth at all times, but 0 power output as mentioned above..
My tuner said it just needs to be retuned because it's been a while.. since last year. Why would it suddenly start doing this though? I suspected boost leak, but like I said no issue there.
I know I need to replace my turbo/downpipe gasket because it has a small exhaust leak. This would not be causing such a loss though! I also need to replace my front wheel bearings.
Could it be that the busted bearings in front are providing enough resistance to cause the car to struggle to make power like this and then slow down due to the resistance?
When I get out and physically roll the car in neutral down the road, it is not difficult so I don't know if bearings are playing a role in this.
Ideas??
Vacuum AFR is usually 15.4-18+ (off the chart)
I don't even attempt to go into positive pressure..
It always feels like something is inhibiting the power, because as soon as I let go of the gas, the car begins to slow down quicker than usual, like the engine or some other physical component is limiting it. Idle is prefect, no issues there whatsoever. Engine runs very smooth at all times, but 0 power output as mentioned above..
My tuner said it just needs to be retuned because it's been a while.. since last year. Why would it suddenly start doing this though? I suspected boost leak, but like I said no issue there.
I know I need to replace my turbo/downpipe gasket because it has a small exhaust leak. This would not be causing such a loss though! I also need to replace my front wheel bearings.
Could it be that the busted bearings in front are providing enough resistance to cause the car to struggle to make power like this and then slow down due to the resistance?
When I get out and physically roll the car in neutral down the road, it is not difficult so I don't know if bearings are playing a role in this.
Ideas??
Last edited:
BadgerType
Resident ***hole
there has to be an issue with the obd-1 swap, my car has been lie that for almost a year. i was about to re tune the car to see if everything was back in the green
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
Please explain more about this Matt, what kind of issue can this be? I am almost suspecting my ECU going out.. because it will idle perfectly, and then got to like 300RPM for a second or two, then idle perfectly from then on. There is NO vacuum issue, and I have proven that.
Also, when I start the car, it takes a while to build vacuum and work itself out. Unless I milk the gas a little at a certain throttle position, it will either die or idle at like 300RPM.
Then, in like half a minute the idle pops up to where it should be, and everything idles perfectly normal.
Also, if I sustain the idle while holding the certain throttle position, after the ECU picks up the signal, the idle goes to normal, and car revs up since I am still holding the throttle at the position as I would to sustain the idle.
WTF..
IN ADDITION: SOMETIMES THE CAR WILL START PERFECTLY. THIS STRANGE EVENT IS INDISCRIMINATE OF WHETHER THE CAR IS HOT OR COLD. I'll wake up sometimes in the morning, and it'll start perfectly and idle fine. Other times, it will do as I described. Sometimes when it is hot and been run it will start and idle perfectly fine. Then other times when it has been run and hot it will do the bullsh*t I have described.
NO, this is not a vacuum leak or IACV issue, so ideas in any other realm would be helpful.
It's almost as if the signal from the ECU is not being picked up, and all the sudden kicks in normally, then sometimes shuts off, then kicks in depending on the reason in question.
On top of all of this, my gas mileage is suffering horribly.
I do not think it is the injectors - they are 480cc flowmatched flowtested RX7 injectors and were completely refurbished by Deatschwerks last year.
It can't be the resistor box. It's definitely not the the injector clips.
Also, when I start the car, it takes a while to build vacuum and work itself out. Unless I milk the gas a little at a certain throttle position, it will either die or idle at like 300RPM.
Then, in like half a minute the idle pops up to where it should be, and everything idles perfectly normal.
Also, if I sustain the idle while holding the certain throttle position, after the ECU picks up the signal, the idle goes to normal, and car revs up since I am still holding the throttle at the position as I would to sustain the idle.
WTF..
IN ADDITION: SOMETIMES THE CAR WILL START PERFECTLY. THIS STRANGE EVENT IS INDISCRIMINATE OF WHETHER THE CAR IS HOT OR COLD. I'll wake up sometimes in the morning, and it'll start perfectly and idle fine. Other times, it will do as I described. Sometimes when it is hot and been run it will start and idle perfectly fine. Then other times when it has been run and hot it will do the bullsh*t I have described.
NO, this is not a vacuum leak or IACV issue, so ideas in any other realm would be helpful.
It's almost as if the signal from the ECU is not being picked up, and all the sudden kicks in normally, then sometimes shuts off, then kicks in depending on the reason in question.
On top of all of this, my gas mileage is suffering horribly.
I do not think it is the injectors - they are 480cc flowmatched flowtested RX7 injectors and were completely refurbished by Deatschwerks last year.
It can't be the resistor box. It's definitely not the the injector clips.
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BadgerType
Resident ***hole
i can't help ya. my car won't hold idle even though it was tuned to hold idle years back.
i just don't know anymore what it could be
i just don't know anymore what it could be
cantafordaccord
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dont know if tunung is the problem but weather plays a role in your tune and sometimes you just need to freshen up your tune
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
This is true, but considering my car was tuned at 101.7 degrees Fahrenheit, I don't think that it would make such a significant difference when the temperature is high 90s.
I'm hoping that all I need is a retune, otherwise I have no idea what the issue is. I'm going to have to get retuned at a much more moderate temperature this time, hopefully catch a day when it's low 80s or something, if I'm lucky.
ANY OTHER IDEAS for this phenomenon?
I'm hoping that all I need is a retune, otherwise I have no idea what the issue is. I'm going to have to get retuned at a much more moderate temperature this time, hopefully catch a day when it's low 80s or something, if I'm lucky.
ANY OTHER IDEAS for this phenomenon?
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
its from the gauge..because when the gauge jumps to RED 17+AFR the car began to get sluggish for a sec..I usually let off the gas and let it reset itself and its fine until it wants to do it again.
I drove to work today with no problems..after spark and oil change but it does seem a bit slower than normal and i think i lost a few MPG/tank.
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
Your gauge cannot cause your car to run lean man. It's got to be stemming from something else. The gauge just gives you the reading the engine puts out without any additional influence.
