I mean we’re comparing apples to coconuts here. You’re comparing a 4.8 liter to a 1.9 liter lol. Of course youd make way more power NA. The argument was stock for stock, or basic bolt ons vs basic bolt ons. You’d lose lol. But if we were talking about forced Induction it could go either way. However, I’m not going to be boosting this motor. I’m going all motor until I feel it’s adequate and stopping. Handling wise, it could go either way with suspension. I could lose to anything if you put enough time and funds into it.
Frankensteins Official Thread
- Thread starter capsidx
- Start date
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
Hahaha, yea. Not even apples to oranges here!
Well, if it gives you a reference point, when I had it running a couple years ago after having done the intake manifold and cam swap, I was able to take on a 2007-ish Nissan Maxima from a red light....and win! Basically, the guy was being an douchebag and wanting to make an illegal lane change and I didn't let him have any of that.
But that in itself is also apples to coconuts as the Maxima is heavier than any CG ever could be. I only bring that up because the Maxima has a v6.
Still though, I'd like to see where we stand with each other on stock for stock or bolt ons to bolt ons.
Glad we’re not arguing like children and conversing like adults
do you have Instagram? Or email? Surely you have email. I would think even a homeless person in 2019 has an email address
NSWDoc
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Posts
- 93
- Reaction score
- 1
[emoji19]Glad we’re not arguing like children and conversing like adults
CDsDontBurn
Well-Known Member
Glad we’re not arguing like children and conversing like adults
Right?
If I can figure out how to send you a PM with this new forum layout, I'll send you that info. But, it's pretty simple, I'm sure you can figure it out, lol.
Well, the saga continues lol. 6th gens were known for having flimsy clutch pedal brackets and mine was no exception. Was on my way to work (2nd day on the job), was thinking “man, cars been running great these past few days”. Suddenly I felt like I stepped on legos and the clutch pedal sank to the floor. At first I thought it was my brace, then I realized it was the bracket itself.
My guess is since I ran the pedal without bracing for nearly a year metal fatigue occurred from all the flexing. This eventually led to the bracket separating. The return spring also snapped. Went to the junkyard and got a used one for 7 dollars. Since it was in a manual cg and was braced, I don’t expect any issues from this one since the pedal is currently braced and not going anywhere. Almost cost me my new job. Hopefully this is the end of the issues for a while. Winter is not the time to be dealing with all this lol
My guess is since I ran the pedal without bracing for nearly a year metal fatigue occurred from all the flexing. This eventually led to the bracket separating. The return spring also snapped. Went to the junkyard and got a used one for 7 dollars. Since it was in a manual cg and was braced, I don’t expect any issues from this one since the pedal is currently braced and not going anywhere. Almost cost me my new job. Hopefully this is the end of the issues for a while. Winter is not the time to be dealing with all this lol
Nam1911a1
Well-Known Member
Hmm...I think my clutch pedal is original and still going strong. Weird. I’ll have to go to the salvage yard and look for one to keep just in case
If your car was a manual to start with you should be ok. It’s got a bracket spot welded up top to stop the bracket from flexing forward. My car started as an auto and I converted it without knowing there was a need for pedal bracing. If there were more bolts in the bracket to start it wouldn’t be an issue but I’m not an engineer and Honda knows better lol
Lot of work recently. The TDC sensor went bad. Don’t get me wrong , I love the F20b but parts are very difficult to find. You can’t just use H22a this or b18c that. Things are the same as other Honda engines but also different. So basically I now have a friend in Russia that ships me parts for the cl1 euro r and the CF4 accord SiR. It’s what I have to do to get parts since those cars were never sold stateside.
I don’t mind though. You want to be different? Have to pay for it somehow and I refuse to use autozone parts so I’m stuck with this option. I also got another harness and raychem sleeved all the connector wires and used high temp electrical tape underneath. The starter also went out. To order a new h23a1 starter would have cost me 1200 so I rebuilt this one and ordered a backup.
The battery was also given a home underneath the carpet in the trunk. The cutout was annoying to make but I wanted it perfect. I need to see what I can do as far as filling up that empty space. I may actually put a spare in there to fill the gap.
Lastly, I’ve decided to go against the whole modern interior thing. I like the classic look of 90s Honda’s. So with that said I’ve started ordering CF4 parts from Japan. I have half of a center console coming in just to start and that alone was almost 400 dollars. But it’s my money so I’ll waste it how I want to just glad to have my car back and hopefully for good. I’ve changed the following parts over the past two weeks
Distributor -$200
Harness-$35
Battery cables $35
Starter $120
ICM-$115
Ignition Coil-$100
Raychem-$50
Distributor o-ring x2 $20
Total: 675
I don’t mind though. You want to be different? Have to pay for it somehow and I refuse to use autozone parts so I’m stuck with this option. I also got another harness and raychem sleeved all the connector wires and used high temp electrical tape underneath. The starter also went out. To order a new h23a1 starter would have cost me 1200 so I rebuilt this one and ordered a backup.
The battery was also given a home underneath the carpet in the trunk. The cutout was annoying to make but I wanted it perfect. I need to see what I can do as far as filling up that empty space. I may actually put a spare in there to fill the gap.
Lastly, I’ve decided to go against the whole modern interior thing. I like the classic look of 90s Honda’s. So with that said I’ve started ordering CF4 parts from Japan. I have half of a center console coming in just to start and that alone was almost 400 dollars. But it’s my money so I’ll waste it how I want to
just glad to have my car back and hopefully for good. I’ve changed the following parts over the past two weeksDistributor -$200
Harness-$35
Battery cables $35
Starter $120
ICM-$115
Ignition Coil-$100
Raychem-$50
Distributor o-ring x2 $20
Total: 675
Sketch o5
Señor Greengo
i would really suggest a battery box, but car fires aren't my specialty 
