HELP! Engine starts, engine shakes violently, then dies?

So I've been having this issue for over a year now but it's only there sometimes. Sometimes it will start up normally and its all good but sometimes I have this issue. I just replaced the cat because it went bad and was throwing up check engine light. I thought this would fix it but it didnt. When this issue happens the car wont start until I start it up and then rev the ***** out of it. Then it will continue to run and not die. I took a video because I thought it might help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znWu6P7Sr08

 

Re: Engine starts, engine shakes violently, then dies?

hmm i remember my prelude used to do this to me all the time, embarrassing when i went to pick up chicks and it would die after trying to start it lol. But the cause was the main relay. Might want to look at that, maybe its gone bad. You can try and take it apart and re-soldering it see if that works. Twas how i fixed mine before i sold it for my accord.

 

Re: Engine starts, engine shakes violently, then dies?

Have a check engine light?

 

Re: Engine starts, engine shakes violently, then dies?

main relay???

Nope none. After I replaced the cat it cleared

 

How long ago did you replace the cat?

 

can't really ID, I'll keep thinking...

In the meantime, check/clean the IACV & EGR.

 

Does the CEL test momentarily when you turn the key to on?

 

Like a few weeks ago? It was really recent

What's that? Any DIY for that?

No but the maintainence required flashes for a bit then goes away. Before I replaced the cat the check engine light would be there sometimes but it'll go away and come back.

 

no DIY by me...should have taken pics, I just did those (1yr ago )...

Next time I knock one out, I'll get pics, might not be an Accord unless I find one...

 

Let me address the IAC and EGR first.

Cleaning the IAC on your car is actually really easy. Id buy a throttle body gasket and IAC gasket before doing it but I'll leave that to your discretion. Throttle body gasket may be alright to reuse. IAC gasket is liable to rip.



Assembly 2 is your IAC. Remove, and clean generously with carb cleaner. While you're at it, remove the intake manifold and check the EGR port.

Procedure: http://www.driveaccord.net/PDF/egr_port_clogging.pdf

Use this and the following video to help you out. I don't think the video will cover you for cleaning the actual EGR valve so use this to get you through removing it to clean it with plenty of carb cleaner and scrape it all clean with a pocket screwdriver of something to the effect. You can almost bet your life that you will destroy the EGR valve gasket so cover your butt and just buy it. Make sure you clean the runners under the EGR valve as well.

For the manifold part:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRp6RWZ1egM

For the EGR valve removal:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-G8YFwueWE


Back to the main relay:

Does your CEL bulb work at all? This video that I just made won't help you at all if the bulb is dead. If you think it may be dead, pull the cluster and just swap the maint. reqd. light with the CEL.

Mine is a 4 cyl. Don't know if the J30 would act differently to just blatently unplugging the relay but lets see if this helps you.

If your main relay is not working, your fuel pump is not priming. If your car does what mine does when the main relay is unplugged, fault the main relay and go ahead with the resolder procedure provided.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n274dSk2R9M

If you think your main relay is to blame: http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1061463