HELP! Engine starts, engine shakes violently, then dies?

I use to have small issues starting when warm on my I4. The idle would dip to 400. Sometimes it made it but others it died but then restart immediately. I have since serviced the EGR and IAC and since, no issues to report. Not even a dipping idle after starting warm.

 

It's only common for the v6 engine, and for some reason, primarily on the engines for the 2000 model. I hadn't seen what engine the OP has, so I was curious as to what he had. If it was the v6, then the heat soak is a very likely reason why this is occurring to the OP.

 

I haven't had a chance to pull out the EGGR with the stripped bolts because I've been busy with school but so far I haven't had issues. It's random and just comes and goes. But I feel a huge loss in power though. When I gas it all the way down it just feels like nothing. And acceleration lags and its just slow. btw i have a 99 V6 with almost 250k miles haha

So what is the heat soak?... I'm reading it and it makes no sense to me and clueless on what the solution to its problem lol

 

Sounds like you might have dirty fuel injectors or your air / fuel mixture might not be where it's supposed to be at.

The TL;DR of the heat soak is, drive the car for ~20min+, turn it off go to the store real quick, between the 15min - 45min period after shutting off your car, come back to turn your car on, it fires up, and shuts off immediately. Pretty much exactly how you posted in your video which is exactly why I said it might be that.

Also, you probably have some CELs going. Not sure though since your CEL isn't working since the bulb is likely burnt out.

 

heat soak issue:

car is off, but hot!

fuel in rail boils, into vapor, it would raise the pressure, but the FPR lets some out. Injectors do not let enough out, they allow the same volume, but it's thinner (vapor), so it is not as much by weight (liquid).

Part of this is about our FPR line setup, norm:

tank---rail---tank

us:

tank--+--tank
........rail

2 fixes are there, prevent heat, which doesn't really work. Or, raise pressure, which raises the amount of heat before this happens. This works well enough that even Honda pulls it off. I'm working out a new version (homemade ) fix using the same strategy.

 

Either full pump or ignition relay. I'd turn the key and lean back toward the back seat with everything off and turn the key to on position where the fuel pump primes and see if you can hear it prime.


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Got this problem fixed a long time ago haha thanks though! All I had to do was change the main relay