HELP! Engine starts, engine shakes violently, then dies?

[phi1542]

Both lights should test. Are you able to get vicegrips on the bolts?

Hit the bolts with pb blaster generously, wait 30 mins and try to get vicegrips on the bolts to turn them. Obvioulsy after the cleaning procedure, buy new and replace bolts

oh when I start my engine for the first time all 4 light up then go away except the maintenance. that will stay and flash for a few seconds before disappearing.

ok I will try that trick.

stripped like rounded nuts, cant get a wrench on

-or-
stripped all the way, no nuts fit at all

-or-

stripped part way, can't get the nut off

several fixes for all...

stripped as in it looks normal but some of the pointy edges are worn down. Once I place a wrench on it just spins but you can feel contact and it slipping.

 

[james'99]

They key is to see if the lights test when the car doesn't start. Start watching those lights carefully every time you turn the key until you feel the problem is resolved for sure.

 

[xci.ed6]

ah, vice grip that thing off! get a new nut before you do. Flange -or- washer, flange are harder to find.

-or-
pull the stud.

vice grip that thing, and loosen it, just like a nut/bolt.

May pull the stud threads. I have used a *bit* larger bolts (usually SAE) and helicoils, but you probly need to play with a tap (the thread cutting thing).

post a pic if you want to, but most EGR studs can not act like that.

 

[james'99]

These particular bolts should be flanged if I remember correctly.

 

[xci.ed6]

sorry, I wasn't to clear there, you can use a non-flanged there, IF you use a washer.

yeah, they should be, it's hard to find Honda bits that are not.

 

[phi1542]

I see haha thanks! Wait so I need a size 12 flanged nut?

 

[james'99]

You're probably best off buying the hardware from honda but if you want, take it to home depot or something and in the hardware aisle, usually they will have a chart that you can test your bolt on to see what the size of the thread and pitch are. If they have flanged nuts that match, awesome! If not, you can do as xci stated and use a washer and bolt. If you buy a 12mm bolt, you will find yourself going back because when you say 12mm bolt, you should be referring to the thread/pitch size. Not the wrench size.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Haven't read the thread, just skimmed it. Didn't see what engine you have, i4 or v6. If v6, check out the HEAT SOAK issue. Based on your OP, this is most likely the issue.

 

[cl206]

Haven't read the thread, just skimmed it. Didn't see what engine you have, i4 or v6. If v6, check out the HEAT SOAK issue. Based on your OP, this is most likely the issue.

yeah I just saw this thread. To the OP, does this ever happen when the engine is cold? or only on a warm/hot engine like after it has been driven for a while? If so, let me know what you're doing to fix it bc my fix was temporary!!!!

You say it happens sometimes. Do this test, next time your engine is all warmed up after 20 or more minutes of driving, turn it off and wait like 15-20 minutes and then try to start it.

 

[Sketch o5]

Haven't read the thread, just skimmed it. Didn't see what engine you have, i4 or v6. If v6, check out the HEAT SOAK issue. Based on your OP, this is most likely the issue.

i've never heard of the heat soak problem with the i4's. both i4 6th gens i had never had a problem starting after they were warm either.