MSD Ignition

[calgaryaccord]

I just put in the Accel "Super Coil" (http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294907606+4294925143+400020+115&autoview=sku) internal coil, along with NGK iridiums, a new cap and rotor and 7mm bosch wires. HUGE difference. Starts easier, revs quicker, idles smoother. Completely worth it.

Total I think I paid about $150 (Canadian - I guess that's about $120 American). It was worth every cent. I was considering going with the external coil, but the cost and the fact that I wouldn't know where to put it in the engine bay made me stick with internal.

I think the concept with the external coils is that the internal coil is too small for it to be able to provide a full spark every time at redline. Afterall, at 6000 rpm, the ignition coil is having to produce a spark 24,000 times every minute. A larger coil allows it to build up a bigger charge between every spark, increasing combustion efficiency and therefore improving power. If I had to do it again, I would definitely try going external, especially based on the reviews it's getting here.

 

[mkpjwp03]

Re: MSD Ignition Box 6A

Seriously? I just wanted some more noticable power in my car past the I/H/E. I already got the NGK plugs and wires and was just thinking that since I'm doing something about the spark I might as well go all out and get MSD Ignition and everything. Is it really not worth it? The reason I'm not going to build or boost this car is because it's an auto and I'm planning on buying either another accord or something else in stickshift, and boosting that car.

Because the MSD ignition is a lot of money, and if it won't make a noticable difference in speed in addition to the I/H/E, then I'd rather spend the money on an HID kit instead lol...or $$ college books $$

I have not run an msd in a honda but I have run them in some old chevy muscle cars, unless your building a very high rev race motor turning like 9000 rpm its not needed, you will notice nothing as far as increased power, mabey a little better fuel economy,best bang for the buck is a set of headers and high flow intake or some under drive pulleys all three will net you noticable gains

 

[[email protected].]

I just put in the Accel "Super Coil" (http://store.summitracing.com/partd...4294907606+4294925143+400020+115&autoview=sku) internal coil, along with NGK iridiums, a new cap and rotor and 7mm bosch wires. HUGE difference. Starts easier, revs quicker, idles smoother. Completely worth it.

I think the concept with the external coils is that the internal coil is too small for it to be able to provide a full spark every time at redline. Afterall, at 6000 rpm, the ignition coil is having to produce a spark 24,000 times every minute. A larger coil allows it to build up a bigger charge between every spark, increasing combustion efficiency and therefore improving power. If I had to do it again, I would definitely try going external, especially based on the reviews it's getting here.

I could be all wet here, but...

I don't think the coil is producing individual sparks like you're saying, and doesn't have to build up a charge between every spark. That's where the rotor and cap electrodes come in; they take the output of the coil and break it into the short bursts of current to the spark plugs.

 

[NASOHC]

Currently I have MSD wires and running Pulstar plugs. Plenty of spark IMO for stock, NA application.

I do have the AEM management/Twin-Fire/Pencil Coil and EPM that needs wiring and tuning. Interesting to see what gains that may have... maybe later.

 

[mkpjwp03]

I could be all wet here, but...

I don't think the coil is producing individual sparks like you're saying, and doesn't have to build up a charge between every spark. That's where the rotor and cap electrodes come in; they take the output of the coil and break it into the short bursts of current to the spark plugs.

The coil has two sets of windings primary and secondary, the primary is energized between fires and creates a magnetic field, when it fires the primary is deenergized and the field colapses into the secondary wich creates the spark, the number of windings determine how much the voltage is amplified, I used to know the formula but haved used it since auto tec 10 years ago but basicaly thats how the coil works

 

[akoutmos]

If you want to go external coil what you can do is get the distributor cap with the interal coil bypass and hook up the blaster coil. This is the distributor i'm talking about http://www.jazzproparts.com/product_p/8294.htm. Here is also an excellent read from import nut on how to install an external coil: http://importnut.net/msdcoil.htm. Although it is done on a B-series, it's more or less its the same exact thing.

And just to clarify, by definition a coil takes in electricity (car batteries being 12 volts) and outputs it at a higher voltage depending on ratio of primary coils to secondary coils. That's why the baster coil can produce upwards of 45,000 volts while the stock accord coil, i'm pretty sure, is rated at 35,000 volts. With the external coil there is more room to twine or "coil" the wires.

Also, and very important, when you have an electrical input, and you pass it through a coil, as voltage goes up, amperage goes down. So these high performance coils are not pushing more electricity through your spark plugs, in fact they are pushing less, but the electricity is pushed with much more force. That's is why you need a high voltage coil on boosted applications. Since there is more air gas mixture in the cylinder it takes a lot more force for the spark to arc from the electrode to the ground on the spark plug.

All that being done and said, i personally would not invest in a external coil on a stock motor with only I/H/E. From an engineering point of view, Honda put on what was necessary to run the ignition system. At most i would put an after market internal coil, to jump up like 5000 volts. I am also very skeptical about the 25% hp gain. That figure seems to be blown up just a tad. After putting a lot of miles on the stock ignition, a tune up (plugs, wires, replacement coil) will give you that horse power just because these electrical components break down over time and create resistance in the system. Its like an air filter; after a while the filter gets dirty and you loose horsepower because there is less air flow. Change the filter and you've got your horsepower back.

 

[calgaryaccord]

I just finished typing up a big reply to the last question, but it looks like akoutmos beat me to it. I couldn't have done it as well anyways. I seriously was going to say the exact same things. Well done.

And I agree on the 25% gains. That would be the cheapest 35 horsepower around. If it's true, sign me up. But I'm pretty sure it isn't.

 

[CHID0]

Re: Installing an external coil

i would stay away from msd ignition, totally ****ed my cars ignition system

I had mine in for a year....i recently removed it and went back to oem ignition. I doubt they're even considered a performance mod unless you have a heavily modified motor that'l take advantage of the MSD

 

[hotaccord243]

The only reason why I had bought and installed the blaster coil, externail coil and the 6A ignition system by MSD is because the sparks weren't strong enough when building boost that it would misfire, (because they were getting blown out) no matter what i gapped them at....

that being said it is really a waste of money, unless you actually need this (say fully balls out NA motor, or a crazy turbo setup or something) just my $.02