apparently.
Wingnut Pansaver?
- Thread starter pattywak
- Start date
apparently.
f23accord2000
Well-Known Member
ford oil pans are flat and use a 13 or 16 mm plug with a smaller hole, honda and vw use a 19 much bigger hole and is kinda indented in and honda 17mm v6 is also bigger hole kinda indented in I4 honda is slanted and doesnt seal, the main the is get a new pan
A new pan is like $60. You may be able to re-tap it, but then you have to make sure you dont have any metal shavings chilling in your oil pan. So the safest way is to remove it, and then. . . Hey look at that the oil pan is already off! Might as well replace it with a new one when you put it back together!
Majestic honda has it for $56. (#5)
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...cgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+BLOCK+-+OIL+PAN
And to replace it may take about an hour, and most of that is cleaning all the residual oil off of the block. Its a very simple, straight forward job.
f23accord2000
Well-Known Member
you can re tap it but that is sometimes a temp fix for a little while ,can sometimes cause more of a head ache later on down the road but good for a temp fix till you get money for a new pan, i after replacing pan i alway get a new plug and gasket every 5 oil changes but thats me, and i have 135 k and i do all my own oil changes and no striped plug for me or pan
a lot of people fail to look at it closely examine the threads any dirt varnish metal chips and thread can destroy the pan and plug by one oil change
a lot of people fail to look at it closely examine the threads any dirt varnish metal chips and thread can destroy the pan and plug by one oil change
finch13
Well-Known Member
A new plug every 5 oil changes? You're lubing and cleaning the threads with oil every time you screw the drain plug in... it's a bit overkill. I've never changed the plug or the crush washer with no leaks whatsoever.
The 4cyl's have it lucky, steel pan, steel bolt. No dissimilar metals to seize to each other. The V6's with aluminum pans are not so lucky. Combining overtightening with dissimilar metals makes it SUPER easy to pull the threads out with the plug.
Here's the deal with tapping oil pans on the car... you will have no idea if you got all the shavings out. A tiny bit of shavings in the crankcase can go a LONG way towards prematurely wiping out bearings.
Since it sounds like you're going replace the pan, here's some tips:
- Use brake clean and wash down the seam between the pan and block, try to go 1" up from the bottom of the block.
- Use brake clean to wipe off any oil and sludge that my be on the sealing. If Honda uses Hondabond for their gaskets instead of just rubber, pick up a gasket scraper. I said gasket scraper, not a putty knife.
- Make sure you get a "flat pack" gasket. If you buy an aftermarket pan that has the gasket rolled up in a ball, toss it out. Silicone impregnate paper gasket blow, they're know to seep through and known to blow gasket out and leak.
- I'm pretty sure the pans just use RTV silicone for a gasket, if so, pick up a tube of Hondabond or Permatex's "The Right Stuff" gasket maker ($20). It's expensive, but well worth the cost. Lay a solid 3/16" bead around the entire pan, go on the inside of the bolt holes.
The 4cyl's have it lucky, steel pan, steel bolt. No dissimilar metals to seize to each other. The V6's with aluminum pans are not so lucky. Combining overtightening with dissimilar metals makes it SUPER easy to pull the threads out with the plug.
Here's the deal with tapping oil pans on the car... you will have no idea if you got all the shavings out. A tiny bit of shavings in the crankcase can go a LONG way towards prematurely wiping out bearings.
Since it sounds like you're going replace the pan, here's some tips:
- Use brake clean and wash down the seam between the pan and block, try to go 1" up from the bottom of the block.
- Use brake clean to wipe off any oil and sludge that my be on the sealing. If Honda uses Hondabond for their gaskets instead of just rubber, pick up a gasket scraper. I said gasket scraper, not a putty knife.
- Make sure you get a "flat pack" gasket. If you buy an aftermarket pan that has the gasket rolled up in a ball, toss it out. Silicone impregnate paper gasket blow, they're know to seep through and known to blow gasket out and leak.
- I'm pretty sure the pans just use RTV silicone for a gasket, if so, pick up a tube of Hondabond or Permatex's "The Right Stuff" gasket maker ($20). It's expensive, but well worth the cost. Lay a solid 3/16" bead around the entire pan, go on the inside of the bolt holes.
ryan s
they dont think it
fel-pro offers a 4cyl pan gasket, i believe. still don't know if i'm going that route or getting some hondabond.
i'll check my oil and see if there's any missing. its too cold to f with it now...
i'll check my oil and see if there's any missing. its too cold to f with it now...
