★ Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! ★ *UPDATED 4/15* ★

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

very nice progress man! siked to see new numbers.one of the few people thats boosting stock internals like me..so lets keep the hope alive! ha
maybe off topic,but our stock MAP sensors are good till about 12/13psi correct? or no

and if I can ask,how much power did you make on the dyno when your ring popped? Ik this thread explained it but it was the tuners fault?

Hoping to make 230whp at 8psi Monty, got my fingers crossed .

As for MAP sensor, I wouldn't even test 11 with it.. That's what blew up my last block, along with the tuner's straight up incompetence. Stock MAP sensors are good for 10.66 psi. I wouldn't even do 10 on them, because if you spike a tad higher than that range, it can be a big boo-boo.

The ring on my last tune blew when boost spiked to 16psi, and that made 300whp. Target boost was 11psi, but either way we wouldn't have been able to achieve that due to stock MAP sensor limitations. It was a combination of false assurances and withholding of information from my tuner, as well as inattention to small but CTITICAL details which he should have told me about, which caused it to blow.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

Ok so before I get tuned, I have found a problem.

There are significant oil leaks from 2 places.

One place is the oil return plate into which the AN fitting installs, you can see the clearly visible crack in this area:

I will be replacing this part tomorrow.


Another place, I cannot figure out WHERE it is coming from... I know I should spray some carb or brake cleaner and then test, but honestly there is so much that I don't know that it will do any good.

Here are some pics, the leak is on the timing belt side of the engine, for reference:

As you can see, the oil pooled in the square divet on the block - however there is no leak coming from the valve cover gasket, that area is dry. Then again - if it is head gasket issue, how did the oil get from the channels, to that area? The channels are not even near it - please see last picture for details. Again - compression is perfect, and there is no oil/coolant mixing going on, and no white smoke from anywhere either. I hate this.

There are some traces of oil on the bottom of the plastic cover piece there, but looking down into the timing belt area there is no oil seeping there. If there is a leak there would it all just not drip down and roll to the back of the engine as it seems to be doing?

The oil pressure line, OEM sensor, oil feed line, and the t-fitting that goes into, are all DRY, teflon tape is white. One theory that is may be leaking from the head gasket from some install issue, but then where exactly are the oil channels there and how would it be leaking if everything fit and was torqued down perfectly, as well as a new gasket was used.

I did a compression test - 185 across all 4 cylinders! If head gasket was leaking or improperly installed compression would be lost correct? When oil is full - oil pressure is even a tad higher than usual, sitting between 55 and 80, then when it leaks out it drops obviously. Would a head gasket oil leak still maintain perfect compression across 4 cylinders? I am stumped.

Here is a sample picture of a headless block:

Where are the oil channels? The weird looking shaped things? If this is the case I can count 6 of them symmetrically, and the 1 on far side of engine where the sensor attaches - is this the right ones I am looking at? I am going to take off valve cover and recheck bolt tightness on the ARP studs.. maybe that's the issue? I torqued them down to 85 ft-lbs with this MOLY lubricant:

I did not have any ARP MOLY. I read up on it, they say that 85 ft-lbs with ARP MOLY, and 120 ft-lbs if using motor oil. What about NON-ARP MOLY?? I used similar MOLY from O'Reilly's - it looked exactly the same, and was obviously intended for the same purposes and called MOLY. Could that be the issue is that it wasn't ARP MOLY??


If anyone can help me pinpoint this leak or provide useful info leading me to fixing it, rep will be thrown hard. Are there any other sources of oil which I am stupidly forgetting in that area which I may need to double check for leaks besides for the theories I just presented?

- Nikita

 

[akoutmos]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

Try this bud:

http://www.amazon.com/Tracerline-TRATP8621-Complete-Detection-Starter/dp/B0017R7ESG

UV tracer dye


Maybe try a leakdown test:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...21x00003a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=SPM211696531

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

About to try to figure this out again, any other ideas? Alex - repped.

 

[Accordologist]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

Bro I've had my 6 gen since 2004 and to see some one go through all this has me with out words.Tight work bro, keep it up. Post a video when you can.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

So I figured it out. Alex, you are the man, wish I could shake your hand lol, and throw some more rep at you. Went to O'reilly Auto Parts, and bought a bottle of Dye-Lite, All-In-One Leak Detection Dye for $6.50.. Worth every penny, and going to return that torque wrench I rented too because that's not the issue!

The dye is the shit. Immediately started seeping and glowing under my UV blacklight from guess where - the fucking steel braided 1/4 compression fitting mechanical oil pressure sensor line. Wow.. The LEAST likely place I would have thought for this to occur, but I guess somehow it got a nasty hole in it. Shit was seeping out like a severed artery.


Accordologist, thank you for the support and kind words! I am very excited as the issue I thought was as major as the head gasket, turned out to be simply the mechanical oil pressure sensor line! Going to source a replacement tomorrow and get a move on with the tune!!

 

[9450erick]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

good stuff
i hope when i go through the process its less complicated
crossing my fingers nothing else goes wrong i wanna see this kitty purrrrrr!!! lol

 

[simon_y]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

Glad to hear you found the problem.

People still use mechanical oil gauges? lol. Time for a electronic one! Wouldn't want an oil leak inside the cabin.

 

[Dracord]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

looks good - I like turbo build threads. I feel bad because I had a friend mostly do my build.

If you would like, I don't know much about ems tuning, but I got my basemaps set up from Payn Technologies in Detroit a few years ago and you are welcome to take a look. Only thing is it's version 1.03 i think?

Still a pretty decent map - Idles good, fires up right away, still gets pretty good gas mileage and power at WOT (slightly lean since I got some different exhaust components)

Turbonetics t3/t4, 450 cc injectors with walbro 255 lph pump, 10 psi

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/21/11*

Hey Dracord,

I would definitely be interested in checking out the basemaps you have! I believe that with the AEM EMS, one is able to do conversions of the maps between version of the software. Maybe this is something I could try. What trim is your T3/T4? Mine is 57 trim. 480cc injectors, 255 Walbro, and going for 8psi. I think that's close enough to where adjustments can be made for it to work! What MAP sensor were you using?


Erick, she will hopefully be purring tomorrow

Simon, yeah I always believe in mechanical functionality and accuracy over the ease of electrical stuff if I can find a way to do it well; I guess I may be a little old-school in that sense. When coming to sensors and A/F wideband controllers, there is no mechanical way to do it, but boost gauges, boost controllers, and pressure lines I prefer the mechanical type. I have a copper tubing kit which is pretty much leak proof unless you straight up kink and break it. When I overhauled my head, I replaced the included crappy nylon tube with the rugged copper kit, and mated it to the -4 AN steel braided line which is now leaking, I think the line bust from the inside and caused this mess. There is no issues with oil leaking inside the cabin luckily because most of the steel braided line is in the engine bay. There are no leaks at the connections, just at that one strange spot where I would never have been able to guess the leak if it wasn't for the UV dye!