auto tranny flush

discovery

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never flush tranny it is bad, simply refill 3 times and flush and you good to go.
 

FunnyVictor86

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technically there are two forms of flushing ... but i've always considered flushing when referred to a machine cycling fresh fluid under pressure [whatever psi] ... the other is of course refill and drain like sketch mentioned ... they're both considered flushing, but only a true flush is done by machine ... which is bad because its more likely to loosen particles, sludge, ect ... which clog the veins fluid travels through ... and then that's where the fun starts :eusa_doh:
 

cajun

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Damn, a 6 page thread for a procedure that is clearly explained in the owner's manual and is easier to do than an oil change.
 

finch13

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There's are 2 methods of flushing and 1 method of draining and refilling.

Flushing:

- Use a flushing machine that will force transmission fluid through the tranny at low pressure. Should ONLY be done at Honda if they recommend it. Those flushing machines are filled with a lot of tranny fluid... no other shop is going to refill it with only Honda ATF-Z1 when they have different cars to service, so you'll only get generic crap fluid.

- Unplug the tranny fluid cooler lines, put both in a bucket, turn on engine. You NEED 2 people to do this. Once the transmission lines start sputtering, turn the car off. Fill tranny with 3 quarts, repeat. Fill tranny with 3 quarts, repeat. Reconnect the cooler lines and fill your last 3 quarts. I say that figuratively, always fill until it reads full on the dipstick. This way, no fluid is actually forced through, it's all done by the transmission itself.

Drain & Refill:

- Already been explained more times than needed.

Personally, I'd only do the drain and refill with how fragile the automatics are.

And FYI, the dictionary defines "flush" as "cause (a liquid) to flow through something". There's no flowing when it comes to a drain and refill, just replacement.
 

tckm

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hey

i just went to my local parts store
and they did a search of stuff for a tranny fluid change
and they said i needed a tranny fluid filter and a gasket
is it true that i need these?
they also said that the filter is INSIDE the tranny :run:
but i doubt that haha
just making sure though

btw i have a canadian accord
02' SE
f23a1 auto
 

silverbullet99

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I work at a honda dealership and we NEVER flush any automatics. If my auto was starting to crap out, I'd bring it down to jiffy lube or midas and have them do a flush, then beat the hell out of it until it died and make them buy me a new tranny haha.

Flush systems are bad news. this is what the dudes at honda have to say about it.

In Honda vehicles, the transmission, as well as the
systems that handle lubrication, cooling, fuel, and
power steering, are designed to give thousands of
miles of trouble-free service if you follow the
maintenance schedule to the letter.
Flush systems are a popular aftermarket offering
these days. These products look impressive and
make lots of claims, but American Honda strongly
recommends you avoid using them on any Honda
vehicle. Here’s why:
• The maintenance schedule neither requires
nor approves of aftermarket flush systems.
• Flush systems take time to do; this adds to
your service customer’s wait time.
• Flush systems haven’t demonstrated an
improvement in vehicle performance or
reliability.
• Flush systems using solvents may leave
solvent in the system you’re flushing. This will
dilute the fluid or lubricant and degrade its
performance.
• Flush systems using filters can filter out vital
additives and degrade the fluid’s or lubricant’s
performance. This is particularly true for
coolant.
• Any damage caused by flush systems isn’t
covered by warranty.


This is the most recent procedure for flushing your tranny:
1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS for details.
3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
• If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
• If the trans won’t shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to
Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into
Reverse and then into Neutral.
7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.
9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1.
 
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