09-15-2006, 02:49 PM 11-18-2006, 04:16 PM 11-18-2006, 07:17 PM 11-18-2006, 08:06 PM I dont have the kit on this motor, its NA. With my gear box, 90% of Lime Rock is the very top of 3rd gear. The only time I was shifting was entering the main straight into 4th gear, (WOT all the way down topping out at about 120ish) and back into 3rd into the Big Bend. (The track runs clockwise in this picture) So revs were high for a long time and I saw the limiter a few times. Going into the straight, the Diving Turn, (before the straight) I often found myself having to shift in middle of the the turn. I go more into detail later when I make a thread about my track day with pics and ****. I thought this was funny. I guess Ive been saying this for years and hadn't even realized it! Notice the date, the pic in the sig was taken at the track in August 09. The track is addictive, I just keep coming back for more. (Post date is from 2006)
11-20-2006, 09:24 PM I pulled the motor out yesterday while I was at the the shop. Up onto the engine stand. the WRX's to both sides of my car are getting new gear sets. Apparently the subarus have a glass gearbox. I pulled off the exhaust manifold and cylinder #3 shed a tear of oil in to give a hint as to what lay ahead. Today I pulled the head off the motor to examine the extend of the damage. I figured I was already in it for at least $500-700 already. . . Until I saw this: The piston melted a bit and scored the cylinder wall. . . Whoops. And since the walls of the H22 are a fibrous aluminum and cannot be machined, Id have to re sleeve it. Sleeves are between $300 and $500, and then to have them pressed in and machined, add another $500, Plus Pistons, Rings Bearing etc, Another $600. It all added up pretty quick. So I made a quick call To Steve at www.Hmotorsonline.com and ordered up another complete H22a long block. I talked him down to removing the distributor and take off $150. So with shipping, I paid $1285 for the motor. And that will pretty much drop right in. A couple pics of the head: You can see the little specs of detonation on both the piston and valves. As soon as the oil ring goes its common to see detonation in the fouled cylinder. A couple pics of the intake manifold: You can see the pools of oil in each runner. Im going to try to sell as much as I can to recoup some money on this. It really couldnt have come at a worse time. If I hand tjust bought the galant, it would have been alright, but that car cleaned me out. All of this is going on the credit card. So before you guys go crazy making suggestion about a crazy builds, I just dont have the money. And since the Accord is going to be a daily driver only now, I dont plan on modding it any more, just maintenance, like swapping motors Click to see vids of the course that destroyed the motor: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlHBYe0fW58
11-20-2006, 10:31 PM Its hard to say which came first, the detonation or the blow-by. But before I fixed the wiring there was quite a bit of detonation. So that could have really stressed the rings. And then the track days and general abuse didnt help. I think it was a slow process put in fast forward by the excessive revs the engine saw on that course. It may have been the ignition breaking up at high, heavy loads. I saw a bit of that on the dyno graph. Another instructor mentioned that he saw a bit of excessive smoke going up the uphill right before the motor blow, (two turns later on the straight.) And as far as the rebuild, I would have also had to settle for USDM OEM pistons, since I cant afford anything else. And those have a smaller dish and dont come over sized. If the damage werent so severe, I may be been able to hit it up with the ball hone or even a rigid hone, but it catches the finger nail a bit, so there are some deep grooves there. 11-23-2006, 09:32 AM Thanks man, that means a lot coming from an OG. The car will be back in effect, with an new H22a, soon enough. It has been an expensive week for sure! Since I paid $175 to get onto the track in the first place, and then $240 for the tow home (plus tolls each way and I $20 I gave the driver for food and ****, that makes it $277) And then the new motor, $1300. That brings my weekend to a a grand total of $1752. Thats without gas and food too. Ive been bumming rides and borrowing the parents cars for the past few days. Ive had off of work all week any way, so it hasnt been to bad. 12-05-2006, 08:16 AM The motor came in yesterday. I was able to leave work early because it was so slow, and managed to get some work done on it. There was more work than I was expected to do. The motor looks good, it wasnt as clean as the first one though. And it seems to be a few years older too, I think its a '91 actually. I got there at about 3:30pm and managed to strip off the old harness and a lot of the unnecessary bracketry. Then I moved onto the manifolds. Im using both IM and EM from the first motor because thats how the car was setup up. The Exhaust manifold was customer modified to fit the down pipe I was forced to use, and the Intake manifold I had spent almost and hour cleaning all the oil and **** out of. . . Also, the RC injectors were already on the older IM with some custom tubing I had used for the IACV and ****. So After I got those both on, I started the internal work. Really it was just swapping the cams over to the type S cams so I can avoid having to re-tune when this is done. Im glad I bought another timing belt and balance belt, the one that came with it was original and had started to crack from age. I also swapped the water pump from the first motor, as it is only about 10k miles old. The h23 manual timing belt tensioner is on too. I put the new oil filter on, and swapped the oil pressure senders over and will be replacing the fluids after the motor goes into the car. Sorry about the sparaticness of this post, Im just listing things as I remember them. I think Ill be putting the motor in on thursday, it being my first day off. And there should be no reason for the car not to be running once its in. I think I have everything I need. 12-23-2006, 10:03 PM The car has been done for a couple of weeks now. I am just now getting around to taking pics of its completion and of its current, winter state. The re-plant went flawlessly. The motor dropped right in, I plugged everything in and she fired right up. No CELs or anything, and a nice smooth idle. Ive been daily driving it for a couple weeks now and the only issue that Ive been facing is that there isnt much heat inside the car. Ive been watching the temp gauge like a hawk and there is nothing out fo the ordinary. Ive also bled the system multiple times so Im fairly confident that there is no air in the system. Which leads me to believe that that the water valve is ****ed up. Its very close to the rear motor mount, and was definitely in the way when trying to thread the rear bolt. I think it got a little too tweaked. Oh well, its still like 50 degrees in MA right now, so heat isnt really necessary. On to the pics: H22a v.2 I need to get some more engine shots, but it really just looks the same as it did before. And some pics of it in the 06-07 winter mode: And the wheels that I traded Skabone my ZEX kit for: Wrapped in a brand new set of Winterforce snow tires. Look how little clearance there is between the wheel and the bigger brakes. Its about .5cm, no exaggeration. __________________
04-07-2007, 06:08 AM Answering some random question about a previous picture The JDM engines use an internal ignition coil, whereas the USDM engines use an external ignition coil. So finding an ignition cap is a bit trickier in the US if you have a JDM engine. But from what I understand, I can use the cap from a USDM 2000 Civic Si. 12-29-2008, 08:18 AM The fans should work with a p72. But you are correct for being concerned that they do, its very important. As for other things, no CELs, No exhaust leaks, no having the motor bang around the engine bay do to ****ty mounts. The rest depends on the tune. Make sure VTE activates at all. (Stock it comes in around 5500 rpm). Its going do be a bit different with the f23 tranny, but it will work. 12-29-2008, 02:54 PM The butterflies are to control the dual intake manifold runners. One set of runners is long and skinny for low-end torque, the others are short and fat for high-end torque. Im not suing them currently. I removed the bracket, removed the butterflies and weled up the shaft hole. The car still makes great torque, although I am curious to see what happens with the butterflies installed. If you have your p72 socketed for tuning, then you you can change pretty much everything using Crome. You can change the VTEC engagement rpm, you can turn off o2 sensors and knock sensors. You can change rev limiters and add launch control, the possiblities are ample. And Yes, the p72 is the only ECU besides the p13 that can run the secondary butterflies. 12-29-2008, 04:50 PM If you plan on not running the o2 sensor, it will be in open loop at all times and will not look at the o2 to correct the fuel trims. I still get about 30mpg on the highway(provided I dont drive like an asshole) with my car in open loop all the time. The knock sensor is used to detect knock and when knock is heard the ECU will pull timing. Its nice to have, but not essential. Im running a p28 and it has no provisions for a knock sensor. So Im running no knock sensor. You're going to want to tune the car fairly soon after getting the car running. The map for the b18 is very different from a map for an h22. A custom tune is the way to go. 12-29-2008, 09:50 PM Regular use? It was a track day! It was 3hr of the hardest driving the car has ever seen, couple with bad gas at the track. I bought "93" octane at the track in October in CT. No one uses 93 octane at the track, so it sights and goes stale. As it does the octane rating drops and its resistance to engine knock deteriorates. Where did you source the motor from? Unless it was from Osaka motors you should be able to drop it in and beat the piss out of it for at least 50k miles. 12-29-2008, 10:15 PM Seriously? The motor isnt fresh. Its a used motor. It probably has somewhere between 40k-80k miles. I'd drive the piss out of right off the bat. Id want to know the it could handle the beating. It will. And depending on the mileage, yes, you are over reacting about the rings. **Also, for the record: I melted a piston, the rings were fine. All those little silver specks are detonation.
Wooooow excellent job man. I'm happy you did this write-up. It'll answer so many questions for those looking into an H22 swap!
