Ok ive got a firm plan for my 6gen want o make sure it all sounds good

boorishid

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Ok first on the list is im riding on stock suspension so im going to find some decent entry level coil overs and drop my ride about an inch and a half. Add some TL sway bars. Planing on sticking with stock tire size, i may move to diffrent 15s that are lighter but it no way do i want bigger rims or lower profile tires. Just wanna look a lil better with a slight drop and have better handling i live in a hilly area and i think are fender gap is rediclous but i want to stay a sleeper not to flashy keep it oem looking.

Next i will be swaping in a transmission either myself of one of the mechanics recommended to me, i need to do some more research and see how much DT ill have if i tackle this project.

Here is where some questions come in. Ive decided im just going to boost. After looking at the turbonetics kit it seems quite easy to bolt up and strip off for smog testing in CA. The parts all seem to be quality and it comes with an EMS that you dont have to fuss with. If i feel the need to upgrade later i can go to emanage or something and get a tune.

I have this head i have to buy though and i figure i will work on it and not sure the right approach now. I know im not going to want to mill it. But exactly how much will a port and polish help on a boosted platform? Aslo i know you dont want to mix boost and crazy cam lift. So im wondering if the smog friendly stage1 bisi cam will also be boost friendly?

All of this seems like the best choice for a spunky daily driver with some potential. And more importantantly it will be very easy to get it all back to CA smog standards.
 

Russianred

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First of all, just the fact that you are in california will make this all harder.

Second of all, you will have to talk to Bisi regarding the cam.

Third, any increase in flow and decrease in resistance yields wonderful results in a boosted setup, so port & polish will help a lot if you can get it done.

Fourth, don't settle for any EMS that comes with any turbo kit that 'you don't have to fuss with'. You will have a lot of fussing to do even if you get the best components for a turbo ever. I can already feel it - your kit will include the FMU & missing link method which = unsafe if you are serious about boosting.

Fifth, boosting isn't as easy a strip on, strip off.

Unfortunately, it will be very hard for you to keep everything smog friendly unless you know exactly what you are doing, and have some freetime and downtime availability on your hands before inspection.

Sorry to be the bearer of tough news, but it may be a bit harder than you imagine. Don't get discouraged though - everything is possible if you do enough research and are totally ready with the proper tools and hardware components (down to the last small bolts).

- Nikita
 

boorishid

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Well thanks for the reply.

Fourth, don't settle for any EMS that comes with any turbo kit that 'you don't have to fuss with'. You will have a lot of fussing to do even if you get the best components for a turbo ever. I can already feel it - your kit will include the FMU & missing link method which = unsafe if you are serious about boosting.

I dont quite know what he missing link method is? I figured turbonetics seems like a quality name with quality parts. Reading the description it says the FMU will keep the air fuel ratios and timing right.

My lines of thinking were that this kit would be a good as is for a maybe 6-8lb boost like anywhere from 50 to 75hp to the wheels boost is what im hoping to achieve from the kit alone, in the begeing. And in the future i can move on to bigger better things such as a better EMS like AEM or better snail or whatever i decide to do after being familar with turbo. I also think the kit route sounds nice becuase i dont have to worry about down time from fitment issues either and to be honest idk how to weld so fabricating my own stuff isnt an option.

As i said idk what the missing link method is? I mean do people bolt these kits on as advertised and blow out there engines? I mean were talking turbonetice not ebay china stuff.

Also i probably will get back to bisi about the cam, it would be nice to add some all motor type of power too :). Are any of the boosters on here running a cam that works well all over the power band and works well with boost? I like the bisi cam becuase it smog friendly and my spare head has a core cam so why not :)
 

boorishid

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Also the question i forgot to ask was... If i go to a lude tranny i know it is geared alot shorter than a 5 speed f23 tranny. Is the stock f23 with longer gears a better choice with boost? It seems to me the longer gears will give more time to build boot? If i use the lude tranny i may just be shifting when i start to spool?

Im sure everyone has seen it bu heres the kit

http://www.customcarscentral.com/trb15110-honda-accord--98-02-.html
 
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BlkCurrantKord

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Missing link - basically a spacer between your MAP sensor and throttle body so the ECU doesn't freak out when it sees boost.
 

idriveanaccord

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our tranny is better for boost cuzz like u said with the lude, ud be shifting right when ur spooling well getting boost as far as turbos
longer gears > shorter
 

boorishid

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Hmm like a physicall spacer between the intake manifold (thats where the map is correct) and the TB? Sorry if that is stupid question like a TB spacer? Or do you mean something computer wise between the map and the TB?

So basically you are saying this kit is going to throw a CEL and the FMU isnt going to do a very good job at all? Basically my bones to pick with turboing besides cost have always been fitment and tuning. Not saying im oposed to tuning but i dont live near a tuning shop so it would be nice to at least be able to drive 75 miles safely to get the ting tuned. My retarted friend has an STI and threw a huge turbo in it, never got it tuned he payed like 3gs for the snail and its now blown. I would hate to do this to my own car :(
 

Russianred

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You'll want to stick with your F23 tranny, and just upgrade the clutch and flywheel. The longer gear ratios are better for boost - you are right.

Downtime and fitment issues will always be potential, no matter how nice the advertised kit is. The only time fitment and downtime isn't a real issue is if you are getting everything installed at a shop, and pay out the a$$ for it.

Yes, people bolt on these kits as advertised and do blow out their engines. This is either because of stupidity, or lack of patience. Most often both. You can't be boosting without a tune reliably without causing damage to your engine. I don't care if it comes straight from the mouth of Mr. Borg Warner, you just don't want to do it if you want to avoid problems.

Look up missing link, or wait let me get that for you..........
http://www.advancespeedshop.com/syn...ve-mitsubishi-eclipse-420a-ml006c-p-5070.html

Yes, you can drive without being tuned, but keep it in vacuum, and under 3,000 RPMs. You should be fine. Why people have problems, is because they aren't patient and hit boost and enter positive pressure without a tune.
 
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Mike's_Taffeta

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I think you need to do a little more research before you decide to jump into forced induction. Are you absolutely sure that your engine is in good condition before you decide to artificially increase compression? Also having higher lift in your cam isn't a bad thing with forced induction. Allowing more air in is always a good thing, as long as you can compensate that air with more fuel.

There's a hell of a lot more into this then you think. Just when you think you have it all figured, you don't. I know all of the guys on here that went turbo have run into issues that they didn't see coming. And it was the same thing with my dsm. A car that came turbo charged still had unexpected issues.

Most of what you said sounds good on paper, or in this case on a comp screen, but you have to make sure that you know what you're doing. You might find that going turbo may not be what your looking for. Especially if you think that removing all of your turbo components for smog reasons is gonna be easy. What about when you get pulled over for speeding and they impound your car for all of those components that don't have a CARB sticker.
 
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