Snoobly's Snail Trail

[hotaccord243]

Ive got the Ostrich Emulator with Real Time updating. I can't datalog though, That requires Crome-Pro and a Hulog.
I can't seem to get the idle above 12:1. I've been trying all sorts of stuff. I was thinking maybe retarding or advancing the ignition might help it, But then i realized i can't do that with the OBD2 distributor...
Ive been tuning for the past 4 hours or so, and i finally got it to rev to 2250 rpms before dying out. ive tried leaning and riching the A/F to no avail.
Any help is greatly appreciated! haha!

Also, without crome pro, i don't have legit lambda maps. makes things pretty difficult. Been thinking about just paying the 35 dollars that phearable.net charges to get the basemap. That's all im trying to get is a basemap so i can drive it to the dyno tuner that is 2 hours of highway driving away. that or the street tuner that charges an arm and a leg about 15 minutes away.

Edit: HotAccord, would you happen to have any maps that you use with the AEM? even looking at those and copying some of the numbers might get me a little farther.

I can check to see what i can come up with for you. After thinking about it overnight, its not going to be your timing (OBDII distributors are not adjustable from the distributor itself, but ARE in the timing maps via tuning software). It's going to be your fuel map. It sounds like under no load and low RPM limits your going to have to lean out your fuel so it's a little more favorable. Which then will lead you to start smoothing out the rest of the fuel map working your way to the top point on your fuel map.

I did this on mine before the tune on e85 and was able to spend a few hours driving, then adjusting, driving, then adjusting over and over and got the driveability down fairly well, without even touching the top end of the fuel map.

 

[akoutmos]

Messing the distributor is not going to help anything. All of the ignition timing adjustments need to be made in the ECU. As for a base map for the F23...i have one for Chrome on my computer at home. Soon as i am out of work today i'll post it on my website for downloading

You richness problem will not go away by messing with ignition timing. Make sure that you have a good wideband sensor and tune your fuel maps first (hi and low for vtec engaged and disengaged). Ignition timing can be done after the fuel maps. Fuel is actually really easy to do, and can be interpolated and quantified much easier than changing ignition.

 

[Snoobly]

The maps would be most helpful and appreciated! I can post up some screen shots of the map that is working the best right now if you guys would like?
I have the innovate mtx wideband and it works great! I'm running the ecu with an open loop system though with no o2 sensor talking to the ecu.

 

[akoutmos]

For tuning you def want to run open loop or else the corrections that are being applied will be throwing off your measurements and tuning. Post some screen shots so we can take a look and see if there is anything obviously off.

 

[Snoobly]

Injector Duty Low Cam

Ignition Low Cam

Fuel Low Cam

Ignition High Cam

Fuel High Cam

I haven't played with the high cams at all. just the low cams.
Final Multiplier is set at .5 with an offset of .75

 

[akoutmos]

Can you give some context for the multiplier and offset? What do those pertain to?

 

[Snoobly]

here are some screenshots of the window. Basically it allows you to tell the computer that you are running larger injectors in a larger engine. For some reason it doesn't keep the 2254cc that i type in. If I put 480cc injectors and 2254 engine displacement it gives me .707 as a fuel multiplier. but since it doesn't save the 2254cc part it read inaccuratley so i just use the 480cc and that gives me a .5 fuel multiplier. The offset doesn't do a whole lot from what ive been able to tell.

This link explains it a little bit. http://www.xenocron.com/install/CromeGuide.htm
"Fuel Tools is a recent plug-in addition that makes tuning vehicles using non-Stock Injectors MUCH easier. I recommend you use in even on vehicles that are using stock injectors if other parts of the setup are highly modified.
Add Fuel Tools and then move on.
Because we are using 450cc injectors, you need to put 450 in the New Injector Flow Rating…notice that the adjusted multiplier has changed to .533. Click on the Advanced Tab and continue…
Fuel Tools 2.0 allows you now to store your fuel multiplier value. This multiplier takes the numbers in the Fuel Map and applies this multiplier to them before the ECU does its final Injector Pulsewidth calculation and squirts fuel into the motor. This fuel multiplier is powerful because motors generally have a shape or a curve to them, and when we change injectors, the motor stays the same so the curve should stay the same (figuratively). Different brands of injectors will have different properties that will slightly change this curve though which is also why that OFFSET box is now there…this will be explained further in a moment.
With larger injectors (than stock), we must also modify how the motor cranks, starts and adds fuel when the throttle is depressed (Tip-in). O2 sensor trim can be modified as well but on most tuned vehicles, we aren’t enabling the O2 sensor so I will not go into that option box. You will find the numbers you enter in these boxes depend highly on the injectors but will also be affected by cams, throttle bodies and even things such as how strong your alternator or battery are as well."

 

[akoutmos]

If you go to http://krcomp.com/pictures/Basemaps/ you will find a F23B1 base map for a P30. Don't know how good it is since i just found it on the internet. I would not use it straight up. Instead take a look at the values and stuff and see how they compare. If you would like detail on my AEM map i can provide that as well.

 

[Snoobly]

Thanks! I'll take a look at that map. If you would ever give me a couple details on your maps it'd be much appreciated!

 

[Snoobly]

well i bought the 35 dollars base map from phearable.net. It still is running extremely rich. 10:1 A/F ratio
Although now it does allow me to rev to 3k before it bogs out. all the way up its running 10:1 fuel though. I just don't get it.
Anyone have any ideas? Ive checked for vacuum leaks and all that fun stuff. checked all my sensor connections. Everything seems good except the A/F ratios.