Going for a re-tune.... (Round #2) Updated 10/28/13

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Cut the braided line down to size, and got it all installed last night, and everything put back together! Turned it over and no leaks!

I have to repair all of the break lines on my Audi (as it's getting harder and harder to start on E85 up in here MN) then i'll start working on the battery relocation, intake construction, and intercooler!

Maybe even throw in a few other goodies....

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Got the Audi all working again, so back to the Honda!

Photos of new oil return line:

 

[AFAccord]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Devon, I'm curious, how do you have your AC lines routed?

 

[Russianred]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Hey Devin, just wondering why you chose that location to tap the bung into. When they were tapping my pan, I was told at the shop that placing it higher up on the side where it can freely flow vertically with minimal horizontal resistance is best to prevent pooling and backing up in a high power setup. I guess the rationale was less resistance for flow = less wear on the turbo internals from pressure caused by potential pooling if the bung is placed on the more shallow part of pan. What do you think about that, would it matter in our setups?

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Devon, I'm curious, how do you have your AC lines routed?

AF - The AC lines are still in the stock locations, haven't touched them since I got the car, however, I am debating on removing them completely.... but we'll see.

Hey Devin, just wondering why you chose that location to tap the bung into. When they were tapping my pan, I was told at the shop that placing it higher up on the side where it can freely flow vertically with minimal horizontal resistance is best to prevent pooling and backing up in a high power setup. I guess the rationale was less resistance for flow = less wear on the turbo internals from pressure caused by potential pooling if the bung is placed on the more shallow part of pan. What do you think about that, would it matter in our setups?

Nikita - Well for starters it's the old location that was a direct line to the oil pan, without going around things, and I was pretty limited by the flywheel cover on the transmission, oil pan bolts, etc. so it was just the ideal spot for it. I put it as close as I can between the cover, a bolt hole for the pan to the right, and low enough for a -10AN fitting to move.

It basically was my only choice for a straight return due to dumptube, wastegate, and all other items without running it all over the place.

Hopefully that helps!

 

[x5carl3tMurd3rx]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Basically, yes, probably not as high of walls, and build a tie down, but it would go into the trunk instead.

The cut-off switch would be solely installed/removed for track days, and probably utilize the taillight key hole somehow, or an extra set of tails with a hole in it....

I'm more leaning towards the optima just solely due to it being a higher quality battery, and I don't have to use a sealed box.

i just put red clears on my car tonight and have my stock tails. they don't look that great because I had to sand tint off them back in the day but could probably be cleaned up. the left center section has a few cracks too but no pieces are missing from it. I was just gonna throw them out but if you want them i'll give them to you for the price of shipping.

Sounds good. What kind of racing you gonna do? Drag, autoX, road course?

Also if you are looking for a light weight battery braille makes some good stuff.

I can't stand my braille. i left the dome light on for an hour one night and it completely killed it, keep in mind this was with it BRAND NEW. i couldn't get it to hold a charge and braille refused to warranty it even though I had had it for less then a week. it sat in my garage for about a year until recently when the battery in my accord died I tried it out of broke desperation and it started the car up and has been holding a charge for at least 6 months now. It BARELY has the balls to crank my car over with it relocated to my trunk. If I have my lights on it'll kill an HID trying to crank and barely turn the engine over enough to start, this is the battery that braille recommended for a stock accord and my engine is lower then stock static compression so, in theory, it should be easier to crank then a stock f23. It was also incredibly over priced, I'd never buy another and never recommend them to anyone unless I hated them.

What did you need a new bung for?




I relocated my battery to the trunk. I have an Optima Red Top (might get a yellow top if this one dies) mounted in a plastic battery box that you can find at O'reillys or Advance, with a quick disconnect key mounted to the box. I bolted the box to the floor and there's a tie-down strap built into the box for the battery. The lid to the box is designed to allow the battery wires to loop up over the base and out of the box downwards to the floor. Used 0 gauge stranded cable with a 200amp ANL fuse and haven't had any problems with starting or charging. Just be sure to plan your path carefully when running these large cables through the firewall and definitely use grommets. My trunk is stripped right now, but I'll see if I can dig up some old photos.

I was running a 100amp ANL fuse in mine and it was fine for like 3 months until recently it started blowing while trying to crank, but only while it cranks so its not a short to ground unless its internally shorting in the starter when you crank it. My 240 did the same and I bumped it up to a 300amp and it never did it again. my accord currently has a piece of 4 gauge wire in the inline fuse holder since I was stuck at sheetz with no fuses.

Hey Devin, just wondering why you chose that location to tap the bung into. When they were tapping my pan, I was told at the shop that placing it higher up on the side where it can freely flow vertically with minimal horizontal resistance is best to prevent pooling and backing up in a high power setup. I guess the rationale was less resistance for flow = less wear on the turbo internals from pressure caused by potential pooling if the bung is placed on the more shallow part of pan. What do you think about that, would it matter in our setups?

thats pretty much exactly where mine is, the bung location doesn't really matter as long as the return line itself is as vertical as possible and as short as possible, the closer you can get it towards the oil pickup the better too so it doesn't have as far to drain inside the pan itself.

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

i just put red clears on my car tonight and have my stock tails. they don't look that great because I had to sand tint off them back in the day but could probably be cleaned up. the left center section has a few cracks too but no pieces are missing from it. I was just gonna throw them out but if you want them i'll give them to you for the price of shipping.

What would be shipping to 55343? Possibly interested in these!

I can't stand my braille. i left the dome light on for an hour one night and it completely killed it, keep in mind this was with it BRAND NEW. i couldn't get it to hold a charge and braille refused to warranty it even though I had had it for less then a week. it sat in my garage for about a year until recently when the battery in my accord died I tried it out of broke desperation and it started the car up and has been holding a charge for at least 6 months now. It BARELY has the balls to crank my car over with it relocated to my trunk. If I have my lights on it'll kill an HID trying to crank and barely turn the engine over enough to start, this is the battery that braille recommended for a stock accord and my engine is lower then stock static compression so, in theory, it should be easier to crank then a stock f23. It was also incredibly over priced, I'd never buy another and never recommend them to anyone unless I hated them.


I was running a 100amp ANL fuse in mine and it was fine for like 3 months until recently it started blowing while trying to crank, but only while it cranks so its not a short to ground unless its internally shorting in the starter when you crank it. My 240 did the same and I bumped it up to a 300amp and it never did it again. my accord currently has a piece of 4 gauge wire in the inline fuse holder since I was stuck at sheetz with no fuses.

Sounds like braille is out, and optima is the way to go for me. I have the standard in line fuse run for the amp i have powering all four speakers, was just going to use that until/unless I have problems and see what it takes to fix it just like you did. I may buy the 300amp fuse if it's working for you.

thats pretty much exactly where mine is, the bung location doesn't really matter as long as the return line itself is as vertical as possible and as short as possible, the closer you can get it towards the oil pickup the better too so it doesn't have as far to drain inside the pan itself.

That's exactly why i placed it where i did, straight into the oil pan and not even 8" long from the turbo to the pan. It was the best thing i could do. It should be able to hit the grooves in the pan and flow right over to the pickup for less drain time too.

Thanks for your input! It helps alot!

 

[Ilovemy6thgen]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

What would be shipping to 55343? Possibly interested in these!

You know they are sedan tails right?

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

Did not catch or think about that, it was too early when I was responding....

 

[x5carl3tMurd3rx]

Re: Going for a re-tune.... (updated 7/30/12 -- Dyno vid & info on Page 38)

haha my bad i totally forgot you had a coupe.