JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 03/12/2012)

Tphong

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

also decided to stay away from the obx itbs and will now be trying to source out a Rosko Euro-R manifold.

I'm also gonna do the Rosko eur-r manifold if my skunk2 doesn't fit. Hopefully it'll fit because I don't want to spend 600 on that manifold. If it was 400 I'd think about it, but it does look nice and you can use some RDX injectors on them. RDX's are pretty cheap.
 

simon_y

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

I don't think Mahle makes 12.5:1 CR. The highest seems to be 11.5:1.
 

2002CG3coupe

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

Bisimoto 12.5:1 87.5 pistons that's what I'm getting maybe you should look into it as another potential option.
 

jdmcg3

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

^requires you to sleeve the block. something i dont wanna do.

Mahle gold series ae pretty much OEM pistos.. just at whatever c/r you pretty much want em to be
 

2002CG3coupe

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

^requires you to sleeve the block. something i dont wanna do.

Mahle gold series ae pretty much OEM pistos.. just at whatever c/r you pretty much want em to be

But of course I know it requires the block to be resleeved :thumbsup:

If I'm not mistaken, for Mahle Gold Series it only goes up to 11.5:1 with stock sleeves and another .20 increase in bore, only way you'll get whatever compression from their pistons are usually custom made and require a larger bore.

I think you should keep your type-s pistons they would make great power to the wheel, plus the c/r is high already and they've been proven with the right head built.
 

crawler89

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

it was a bone stock GSR DC. he bought it from some older guy. it was his dd.. no mods or anything.

i really wish we woulda got it on tape..


heres a youtube one.. watch this and tell me if a gsr is gonna walk a f23


since off topic I have hesitated, What is the one thing you didn't hear?? that was not a vtec engine, or it was broke, low oil something because v tec never kicked. If you want to discuss racing or anything more feel free to pm me unless you don't care about crossing this convo during you build. I have owned a 95 Ls special, a 96 Ls special, a 96 GSR, a 99 accord Lx f23a1, and now a 98 EX-L with a f23a1, f23a1 will never beat a GSR with out a major build.

But more importantly do you have an expected time to fire your engine? will we get a video of your car in action?
 
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jdmcg3

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

since off topic I have hesitated, What is the one thing you didn't hear?? that was not a vtec engine, or it was broke, low oil something because v tec never kicked. If you want to discuss racing or anything more feel free to pm me unless you don't care about crossing this convo during you build. I have owned a 95 Ls special, a 96 Ls special, a 96 GSR, a 99 accord Lx f23a1, and now a 98 EX-L with a f23a1, f23a1 will never beat a GSR with out a major build.

But more importantly do you have an expected time to fire your engine? will we get a video of your car in action?

good point.. i do wanna try to keep this thread as less cluttered as possible to think about it.. that way others wont have to read through a bunch of bs..

but when do i expect for my swap to be done?.. honestly.. idk.. ive re thought the whole thing. i started to cheap out.. which i realized, i dont wanna do. i wanna try and reach my original goal of making 250hp.. and the setup i had wasnt gonna make that.

and yes when its all done, there will be plenty of track day videos hitting the eye candy sub-forum.


edit: just did some rough math in my head of parts still needed.. about 5 grand.. yeah im still a few months out.

...whos down to help me rob a bank?!
 
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jdmcg3

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Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 02/15/2012)

Swap out your main bolts with new OEM ones. These bolts are not TTY like the head bolts, so they can be reused a couple times. The ARP studs have a much higher clamping force, and therefore oval out your main bores. You'll have to spend ~$300 for an align hone to round them back out, then you'll have to start from scratch with your bearing selection and mix and match OEM sizes for each journal since it won't be anything close to stock specs. There are guys with F-series making 600+whp, and you won't ever see them complaining about their OEM main bolts. I've been down that road already. Save yourself the money and time.

i just wanna double check.. and wanna know if anyone can double verify this.. cause i just found a killer deal on the arp bolts, waayyy cheaper then what the dealership is gonna charge me.

and quite honestly.. after i put this thing together i dont ever plan on tearing back into it. if it does ever crap out.. the whole block would be swapped out with a h23 block oorrr i'd finally say im done with the honda game and get a bimmer.


and just so we're on the same page.. im speaking of Part Number: ARP 208-5401
 
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