Richard's '03 CL-S 6MT

Discussion in 'Non-6GA Member's Rides' started by Sil2DrV6, Sep 3, 2020.

  1. Sil2DrV6

    Sil2DrV6 Well-Known Member

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    Gave a little search up in Azine, and it turned out to be a very common issue for these particular seats, due to corrosions / rusts on the gear. That's how it gets stuck, and why it doesn't move. It supposedly can be fixed by re-greasing the gear and forcing it to turn 'n click again with a use of a flat screw driver. My guess was so wrong lol.

    Currently, being on a hold for getting the I.M. Adapter shipped out. 1 more week or so. :coffee:
     
  2. HayyItsRay

    HayyItsRay Active Member

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    Excited to see how this all goes! Always wanted to experience the feel of this model CL-S and reading your experiences is probably closest I'll ever get.

    Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
     
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  3. Sil2DrV6

    Sil2DrV6 Well-Known Member

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    I.M. & T.B. next. :Smoker: Thinking about having the T.B. ported...

    There's a guy on YouTube driving one with a dash cam w/ his comments abt the car. He's got the navigation trim, and a CAI, so his Vtec is really there, unlike mine haha. That might be the closest lol.
     
  4. ThatDesiKid

    ThatDesiKid Well-Known Member

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    Would you do ported runners as well? I was considering doing the J37 intake, bigger TB, and ported runners but found out that setup won't work with the Comptech S/C

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
     
  5. Sil2DrV6

    Sil2DrV6 Well-Known Member

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    Been a while since I posted some pics of this car.. I remember my old man told me once: "Operating automobiles originally meant to be MT back in the day. It was until someone in a military came up with this brilliant idea of getting crippled soldiers to be able to drive their vehicles on duty.." Well, AT is becoming today's standard, but I guess it was for disabled people in the beginning.
    [​IMG]


    Saw the runners made by P2R and I was wondering which part it exactly replaces the factory parts.. :thinking: Which upgrade is it incompatible with S/C?
     
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  6. ThatDesiKid

    ThatDesiKid Well-Known Member

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    The J37 IM won't work with the S/C....the Comptech Elbow needs to be changed or modified.

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
     
  7. Sil2DrV6

    Sil2DrV6 Well-Known Member

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    Noticed today that one of the taillight bulbs is out. :ugh2:


    That S/C was introduced way before '09, so I guess that explains it.


    Why not going with turbos instead?

    Btw, you should post up some pics of your CL already, as you've said! :pics-stfu:




    :pedobear:
     
  8. Sil2DrV6

    Sil2DrV6 Well-Known Member

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    Got the P2R I.M. adapter! Very nice to see a company like this still supports the CG chassis to this date. Thought about getting a new T.B., and have it ported out, but I think I'm gonna stick with just the cleaning, unless it's decaying or anything. Gonna try to stick with the swap being factory as much as possible (besides the intake 'n headers..) so I can feel each of the differences in upgrades, little by little in the long run.

    Remarks: Updated:11/20/2020
    1. -Rear right brake- Scratching sound when the wheel rotates. Either the parking brake or the pad.
    2. -Oil pressure Switch- The area is leaking but I need to double check on this again.
    3. -Cabin Air Filters- Pretty sure they're nasty AF.
    4. -SRS Air Bag Service Recall- Need to visit the dealership before the swap happens.
    5. -L. Headlight wiring- It's not turning on, and it keeps blowing out the fuse. Makes me want to replace the whole wire harnesses now haha.
    6. -Fuel injection- When it fires up at a start, it ignites fine but the fuel sounds like it isn't getting injected / pumped out effectively. Got the fuel injector relay replaced very recently but I feel like the fuel pump is due soon. Accord is doing a similar thing on a rare occasion, but if it's really the fuel pump, I'll hold on to this, since the pumps aren't interchangeable and not related to the swap. Added the fuel injector cleaner to the tank.
    7. -Spool Valve- Waited until 4800 RPM, but I still can't hear the VTEC kicking in yo. The spool valve housing / the solenoid is probably done. I might leave this as is, and transfer the one from my Accord, when the swap begins, since they're interchangeable.
    8. -P.S. Rack- It's leaking but I'll ignore this since it's not a swap-related issue.
    9. -Passenger's side seat- It isn't reclining lol. Gave a little search up in Azine, and it turned out to be a very common issue for these particular seats, due to corrosions / rusts on the gear. That's how it gets stuck, and why it doesn't move. It supposedly can be fixed by re-greasing the gear and forcing it to turn 'n click again with a use of a flat screw driver.
    10. -Audio Head Unit- The Bose radio works nice, but the compact disc playa is not in the game. I might buy a used oem head unit from eBay, since getting it fixed by the dealership will be in a higher price.

    Engine / drivetrain maintenance:
    – Motor and transmission mounts
    – Throttle body gaskets ----- (P2R #141 & #149)
    – Throttle Body Cleaning
    – Throttle position sensor gasket
    – Cylinder Head Covers ----- (From the Accord)
    – Cylinder Head Cover Gasket Sets ----- (#12030-P8A-A00)
    – Valve Cover Gasket
    – Valve Clearance Adjustment
    – Rubber Grommets
    – Air intake ----- (Injen CAI #RD1660P)
    – Exhausts Manifold ----- (DC Sports #HHS5528)
    – Exhausts manifold gaskets
    – Head gaskets
    – EGR Valve & Gasket ----- Done!
    – EGR Block off plate??
    – Spark plugs ----- Done!
    – Spark plug wires (leads)
    – Ignition coils ----- Done!
    – Distributor Rotor
    – Drive belt
    – Timing belt ----- Done! @ 108K mi
    – Tension pulley
    – Idler pulley
    – Water pump ----- Done! @ 108K mi
    – Oil pump
    – Pressure relief valve
    – Main Seal (Front & Rear)
    – Spool Valve Filter Housing ----- (From the Accord)
    – Axle Seals
    – Oil Pan Gasket
    – Thermostat ----- (From the Accord)
    – Radiator hoses Upper ----- (From the Accord)
    – Radiator hoses Lower
    – Alternator
    – Starter
    – Clutch
    – Flywheel
    – Fuel Rail
    – Injectors
    – Water temperature sensor
    – Fuel Pump


    Parts extraction:
    – Motor + mounts
    – Engine Wire Harness
    – Transmission + mounts
    – ECU
    – Axles with Half Shaft
    – Shift knob, Shift Cables and Shift Box
    – Brake pedal
    – Clutch pedal
    – Clutch pedal mounting box
    – Master cylinder
    – Slave cylinder
    – Alternator
    – Starter
    – Clutch
    – Flywheel
    – Fuse box
    – Dash Panel + Shifter Console + Steering wheel
    – Dash Panel Wire Harness
    – Taillight Trunk Opener

    J37 Intake Manifold Swap Parts List:
    Removed it since I no longer need the notes, but it's still posted on the the previous post.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2020 at 1:05 AM
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  9. Sil2DrV6

    Sil2DrV6 Well-Known Member

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    Opened up the trunk to get some stuff, and noticed that the floor had bunch of nasty stains.. Assumed that the bad smell in the car could've been this. Decided to permanently remove the floor board, since there wasn't any more reason to keep it, and it was surprisingly wet.. Checked the spare tire enclosure, and there was a glass full of rain water underneath the tire lol!:doh: Traced the wet zones, and it was dripping from the side of the trunk panel. Would have not discovered this, if it wasn't parked outside.

    Getting the J37 I.M. soon. Mean while, took her out for a spin to get some groceries done. Been driving this once a week, and it was fine. On my way back, I noticed some obvious noise, which seems to be somewhat suspension related. She's got an old wheel bearing and a weak parking brake, so I hope the noise is something minor that's coming from one of those. Gonna get it checked out when the I.M. upgrade begins soon. (The noise is a lot different from my Accord's wheel bearings, but it does sound like the car is about to take off like an air plane -- a typical wheel bearing noise when ppl describe it.)
     
  10. RedRyder

    RedRyder Save the manuals

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    What's the fix for the trunk leak? Replacing the rubber/foam molding that lines the whole trunk opening? Also maybe check around the trunk floor for the rubber caps sealing the holes so no water gets in that way.

    When the rear wheel bearings were going bad in my Accord, it was a low hum noise. Was barely audible since I have a full exhaust, but after driving the car 13 years my ear was trained for what noises were normal and which weren't haha.
     

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