ThatDesiKid
Well-Known Member
I don't want to talk about the cracked dash 
lolololol
lolololol
Richard's '03 CL-S 6MT
- Thread starter Sil2DrV6
- Start date
Nothing but caps on this post lol.
Replaced the nasty one with the semi-newer one, when I renewed the one on my Accord's years ago.
Got a new set for only $50! These are usually $25 per piece, like it says on the screen.
The caps were originally for my Accord's BBS in the future, but I wanted to put these on my CL's now, because one of the caps has been missing ever since I bought the car lol.
I'm sure the new axles are happy now, but.. Wow, these caps are the shiniest things on the car right now lol. (My new exhausts are filthy AF atm haha.)
Updated the OP with these additions. Thanks for looking!
Replaced the nasty one with the semi-newer one, when I renewed the one on my Accord's years ago.
Got a new set for only $50! These are usually $25 per piece, like it says on the screen.
The caps were originally for my Accord's BBS in the future, but I wanted to put these on my CL's now, because one of the caps has been missing ever since I bought the car lol.
I'm sure the new axles are happy now, but.. Wow, these caps are the shiniest things on the car right now lol. (My new exhausts are filthy AF atm haha.)
Updated the OP with these additions. Thanks for looking!
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My passenger side's power seat reclining function was out of the game, ever since I got the car 4 years ago. It really wasn't necessary to fix it, because no one hardly ever sits, but it caught my attention, when the driver's side started to quit reclining two days ago lol.
Recalled myself of searching for a solution at Acurazine once, and searched it again to refresh my memories of what I've remembered. 1st was to remove the plastic cover on the side of the seat, where the buttons are attached. (Had to remove the door sills first for the better clearance to access those two screws to detach the cover.) There was a gear mill trying to move by a bit, every time I press the recline button. 2nd was to shoot some greasing spray on the gear, and let it move with the help of my force with a flat head screw driver, as I was pressing the button. It struggled for a few seconds, and started to turn again... Yay! Worked on the other side, and the seized reclining seats game's over, once for all. (IDK why but some pics just randomly rotate themselves, when I attach my photos from my hardware, and I can't do anything to fix it..
)
(EDIT 04/21)
Been wanted to renew one of my ground cables, which has been bare naked and rusted. Was surprised to see how it doesn't come with any cover, since the Accord's seems to be somewhat covered. Hence, I added some heat-shrinking electrical tubes through the cable, and wrapped around the mid section with the electrical tape.
Updated the OP.
Recalled myself of searching for a solution at Acurazine once, and searched it again to refresh my memories of what I've remembered. 1st was to remove the plastic cover on the side of the seat, where the buttons are attached. (Had to remove the door sills first for the better clearance to access those two screws to detach the cover.) There was a gear mill trying to move by a bit, every time I press the recline button. 2nd was to shoot some greasing spray on the gear, and let it move with the help of my force with a flat head screw driver, as I was pressing the button. It struggled for a few seconds, and started to turn again... Yay! Worked on the other side, and the seized reclining seats game's over, once for all. (IDK why but some pics just randomly rotate themselves, when I attach my photos from my hardware, and I can't do anything to fix it..
)(EDIT 04/21)
Been wanted to renew one of my ground cables, which has been bare naked and rusted. Was surprised to see how it doesn't come with any cover, since the Accord's seems to be somewhat covered. Hence, I added some heat-shrinking electrical tubes through the cable, and wrapped around the mid section with the electrical tape.
Updated the OP.
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Been a while since the last update here, as the life has been like somewhat being on a roller coaster lol. Mean while, the car has been treating me very well, after getting all of that resto-modded work prior to the motor swap. But it was until she threw me a CEL flashing with a bunch of vibrations omw to work a few days ago!
Luckily, it happened right before I was arriving at work. Parked the car and worked as scheduled. A quick search while at work sounded like it could've been some misfiring issues.. Drove the car to the shop on a limp mode. Luckily, I didn't need to tow it bc the shop was only located 1 mile away from work.
It turned out that there were 3 ignition coils being toasted!! I was really shocked, because those coil packs were not old at all. I swear I got those replaced:
I just hope that these new OEM coil packs will last forever, and won't give me another CELs so soon, because these factory coil packs were not so cheap at all lol.
Luckily, it happened right before I was arriving at work. Parked the car and worked as scheduled. A quick search while at work sounded like it could've been some misfiring issues.. Drove the car to the shop on a limp mode. Luckily, I didn't need to tow it bc the shop was only located 1 mile away from work.
It turned out that there were 3 ignition coils being toasted!! I was really shocked, because those coil packs were not old at all. I swear I got those replaced:
Indeed, the ones I got were not a factory made, but they were made by Denso. And, I only drove it for 26,500 miles with those.. In fact, those Denso coil packs were cheaper than the OEM's, like 40 bucks per piece.. And they were made in China.. But why were they so weak though?? What else could cause the trouble? The EGR valve, or it's port? Or, was it simply just one of those things people say : "You get what you pay for" ??
I just hope that these new OEM coil packs will last forever, and won't give me another CELs so soon, because these factory coil packs were not so cheap at all lol.
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Denso is not the OEM part, nor are their parts what they once were years ago. I posted a picture a while back on Azine about OEM replacement coils available from Rockauto. In short, look for 05-08 Acura RL coils made by Hitachi. They are the same part number as the original j32a2 (CLS) coils, with a minor cosmetic difference. Specifically the top outer plastic, due to a change in valve cover hardware for later j series motors.
Hey, thanks for your feedback. I guess things have changed, and who knew that I was gonna get those sets made in China lol. I guess this explains that I just mistakenly went out with a set of POS, and I did get what I paid for lol. I should have gone with those factory Hitachi sets in the first place, but..., IDK if this was from the inflation shit after covid, or something but.., damn.., I forgot how expensive these coil packs were lol..
ThatDesiKid
Well-Known Member
Coilpacks aren't cheap lol especially brand new ones. I just grab a set from a junkyard for $50 and it solves the issue for me.
I had to get them all new..
These will most likely be my BD gifts lol.
A little throw back pic from last year. Notice that I have little stickers on the CL's coil packs (says Made in China..) I got none of that now!
Day 1 (bottom) vs. Day 1430 (top) before the coil packs failure.
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Thanks! The progress is slow like a turtle in a cruise control mode right now, but it's getting there!
